Need help with 29g reef!

AC2020x

AC2020x

AC Members
Dec 31, 2008
391
0
0
35
State College, PA
Hey, about 8 or 9 months ago now I started up my first 29g SW tank not knowing too much about SW or especially about reef. Now I know a little bit more and I think I'm ready to change my tank from fish only into a reef. But i'm still not too sure on everything I need to do?

Right now I have some eagle eye and star polyps in my tank which seem to do fine. However I tried a couple other corals and they didn't do well and just died on me. (including a peice of montipora digatona and about half of my star polyps, the other half seem fine!) -

These are the lights I have on the tank- http://www.aquacave.com/current-usa-30-nova-br-extreme-t-5-fixture-br-2x24w-10k460nm-1137-2369.html I know they are not that great and will greatly limit what I can put in the tank but at this point i'm not looking to upgrade them (maybe in the future)

Heres my paramaters:
Ammonia and Nitrite:0- very low
Nitrate: 25 a little high
DKH:7
Phosphate: 2
Calcium:340
SG: 1.023
PH:8.3
Temp: 80

I recently got a RO/DI unit and have begun doing water changes with it. I no doubt need to do more water changes more frequently.

The phosphate issue is obviously probably the main reason I have so much hair algae and it is going to become a problem real soon if something is not done. Other than water changes does anyone have any other ideas of how to bring down my Phosphates?

What types of beginner corals would you guys suggest other than the polyps that would work well with my set up? For these corals is there anything like supplements I need to get? I've heard things like Coral Frenzy and Kent additives like Reef Nutrition work well? Would you suggest these? Anything else?

Also any ideas to get rid of hair algae problem or removing phosphates is helpful as well!

My current stock are 2 misbar clowns, a firefish, and lawnmower blenny which I will move once he gets larger. Also some snails and hermits.

For you experienced reef keepers- If you were in this situation- what would you do?

Thanks alot and any ideas or opinions are greatly appreciated!
-AC

100_0843.JPG 100_0846.JPG 100_0856.JPG
 
Phosphate at 2 would definately cause those problems as well as explain your hair algae outbreak. You want it .02 ideally, .1 is considered bad for SPS tanks, 1.0 is considered bad for any type of reef tank. Pull out the hair algae by hand or with tweezers. I do it almost daily in my tank lately.. I did a dumb mistake and used AlgaeFix for marine tanks and it killed off my chaeto in my fuge but didn't kill the algae in the tank, then with the chaeto gone the hair algae took off. Now I have the chaeto replaced and have been pulling out hair algae for almost a month straight now. Almost at the end of it myself this round.
 
God, I hate that stuff! But Ace25 is right, I got rid of mine when my phosphate went below .4, but it's different for every tank. One time, it touched less than .01, I was thrilled until I found out that it was dangerously low.
 
In my opinion this is what I would do:

My first move would be to remove the cannister filter. Any mechanical filtration in a reef tank is a no-no.The trapped debris releases ntrate and phosphates which fuel hair algae growth and retard coraline growth.

Phosphate is mainly exported from the water via protien skimming. If your skimmer is not adequate you'll need to upgrade. Which skimmer are you currently using?

Keep in mind the use of a phosphate removal pad is only treating a symptom not the cause. Like Ace found out about his use of Algae fix. Eliminating the source is key.

Secondly Keeping the calcium levels at about 420ppm and an alkalinity of about 11dkh will help the coraline algae grow.

Once phosphate and nitrate levels are down the coraline will take off.

Thirdly you need to at least double or triple your lighting. A general rule of thumb is to be as close to 10 watts per gallon as possible. With you current lighting your scratching 2wpg. You may want to consider a single inexpensive 175 watt metal halide pendant and replace your current bulbs with actinic blues for supplementals. This would get you real close to the 10wpg.

Taken care of in this order and your tank will be rockin and you'll be able to keep just about any coral.

hope this helps
 
OK, cool my skimmer is a hang on bak pak 2- nothing amazing but It does an alright job. I have a couple of questions-
1. Are there a light you would suggest.- any links or price range that I should look for would be good!
2. by the 2 acitinic blue bulbs do you mean to go into the current light I have? - Any links on bulbs that would work?
3. What are your thoughts about adding keeping cal and alk stable? Is B-Ionic good-i've heard people say it is - http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewI...1&child=EV1111&tab=4&size=32 oz. (2 x 16 oz.)
4. I currntly have instant ocean salt mix- would you suggest switching to some type of reef salt mix or is it no big deal?

I got rid of almost all the hair algae and have been doing more water changes so I should be able to get the phosphates and nitrates down.

And I guess I will remove my filter from the back.

Thanks
-AC
 
Have you removed the can nister filter. Mechanical filtration is the biggest cause of high nitrate and phosphate in a reef tank. Breaking down trapped food ,fish waste and other oganic biproducts in the filter sponge,floss etc.,raise ntrate and phosphate levels10 times faster than if it is left to break down slowly and allowing the skimmer to remove it.

The Ca and alk are on the low side as well. Calcium shlould be at about 420 and alk should be at 10-11 dkh. Coaraline algae and other calcifying organisms will not grow in the presence of nitrate and phosphate.

As I stated before a 175 watt metal halide can be had inexpesively if you buy used from the used equipment forum on this site or others. A 10k bulbb is what I reccomend Then replace the lamps in your current fixture with super actinic blues.. This is a proven lighting scheme that will get you corals growing like weeds once your water parameters are up to snuff. Your montipora most likely died of few things combined.

#1. Lack of lighting intensity,bulb usually should be replaced yearly because loss of intensity and spectral shift

#2. High phosphates and nitrates

#3. Low Ca and alk levels

I would not add any more coral until this list of items are addressed.
 
btw, I found a 150 watt double ended HQI hanging pendant on reefcentral. I gave the guy 100 bucks for it and it is over my 29g. something like that is perfect for a 29. if you get a MH get a phoenix 14k bulb, they look incredible!
 
so would that be something that you hang over your tank? Is something like this what I am looking for? http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1712684 ????

Though 250w is a little too much i'm guessing- so I'm gonna look for something else!

you said to get a get a phoenix 14k bulb- can you replace the bulbs in any fixture as long as it's the same wattage???
 
Last edited:
175 watts is what you want. There are pendants tha hang over the tank. 14 k ia a great color.

Also try a reef salt mix like Tropic Marin,Red sea, or Reef Crystals. All these mixes have enriched calcium levels. Instant ocean is mainly intended for fish only applications
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
AquariaCentral.com
Top Bottom