Need quick answer.. about to buy a new tank..

[TPIRman]

Originally posted by Watcher74
TPIRman,

I only suggested the bubble wand due to the fact that water out of the tap is high in CO2 and low in Oxygen. I know that it is not needed for dechlorination.

As for using water from the old tank to top off the new tank:

Why do that if the water parameters match? You're just adding nasty, old tank water. Many breeders do 100% water changes on a daily basis to provide the best possible water conditions. And occasional partial water changes of >80% is a recommended way to prevent drifting water parameters and Old Tank Syndrome.

Regardless, the bubble wand isn't necessary. Tap water may gas off some CO2, but it isn't dangerously low in oxygen.

Many breeders do indeed conduct 100% water changes every day. The key there is that they do it every day. It is unlikely that Jeff has kept to such a rigorous water-change schedule. Thus his tank water likely has higher total dissolved solids (TDS) than the tap water. Since we don't know Jeff's maintenance routine, the safest thing is to recommend bringing over some of the old tank water to reduce the potential for TDS shock. As I said, the water is the least important part of the equation, but for an established tank, a 100% water change can be more traumatic to the fish than a change of 50% or so.

 

[Watcher74]

Vato,

Just be careful, OK. If you keep giving vague information that is extremely misleading to someone new to aquaria you can end up causing the death of a lot of fish.

The fish DO need the bacteria, NOT the water. The water doesn't care a whit for the beneficial bacteria. The fish produce waste (Ammonia/Nitrite) and they(the fish) need for that to dissapear. It dissapears by the nitrifying bacteria in the biological filter eating it and eventually turning it into nitrate.

Water does not need anything.

Its water ok? Are we afraid the water might die?

TPIRman,

Fair enough. That makes sense.

 

[vato]

Watcher74, I see what you are trying to say. So I will keep away from that vauge statement in the future. At least now we have a understanding of cycling that is the same. We are saying the same thing, but my statement, now that you point it out, I could see being misconstreued as something else. So on my honor I'll try to be more clear in the future.

 

[anonapersona]

Caring for bacteria

I've done this sort of tank change out, and I tried to follow the advice on WetmanNY's Skeptical Aquarist site. Skeptical Aquarist.

There in the Setting Up section, near the end, he discusses moving tanks.

Well, first ,of course, you want a huge bucket and a cover of some sort to move the tank water and fish and decorations into. Remove any live plants. Add a heater to the bucket. An airstone also. An appropriate amount of Prime (or similar ammonia detoxifier) is a good idea, IMO.

WetmanNY says that since the bacteria in the upper gravel is different than the bacteria in the lower gravel that one ought to remove the top 3/4" to a shallow pan and cover with tank water, then move the lower gravel to the new tank. (This is where I mixed in the new gravel since the new tank was larger.) Then transfer the plants (if any) and top with the old top gravel. At this point you can drain down the water in the tank to below the gravel level, see his site for an explaination, to remove murky messy water. Then carefully and slowly refill with tap water to maybe halfway, adding dechlorinator as you fill. Set up heater and filters, then move decorations left if any, then fish. Complete filling the tank with tank water then tap as needed, dechlorinating as needed. Leave lights off for the rest of the day so the fish are not too freaked out.

Now, as for the long debate about old water. If the tank has had regular and sizable water changes, then this is a non issue. If it has been 4 weeks or so since a water change or only small changes are made, it would probably be best to do a partial change a week or so before making the move, maybe even a few weekly changes of a reasonable size, so that the tank is near to tap conditions. A test of aged tap water and tank water will tell you how far the tank may have drifted.

If your tap water changes in pH a lot from fresh to aged, then you'd want to keep that much more of the old tank water to minimize that effect. Or store and agitate the tap water overnight before the move.

If you don't have a couple of 20 gallon rope handled buckets (from Walmart or Big Lots) that are dedicated to only fish stuff, this is the time to invest in them.

I moved my fish and plants from a 20High to a 59 gallon and the fish and plants never reacted to the change.