new frontosa

exotic_keeper

i only keep vicious fish
Jul 10, 2006
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I have just bought a new 2 inch frontosa for $7. :Angel:

The first day he was eating flakes.Now a week later he is hiding behind a powerhead doing nothing.what should i do.He is in a 20 gallon for now but will soon be in a 55 by himself when i get the money.what should i try feeding him.
 
Hello there, did you cycle your water before putting the frontosa in the tank? What are your water parameters? Ammonia/nitrite/nitrate? :dive:
 
in addition to knowing the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels in your tank, what is the chemistry of your water with regard to pH, gH and kH? Cyphotilapia frontosa are, as you hopefully know, Tanganyikan cichlids, and as such require very hard, alkaline water. they are EXTREMELY sensitive to ammonia and nitrite and even low levels of either will kill them. too, they are meat eaters and require a diet high in protein. flakes will not sustain them for very long. pieces of shrimp, krill, fish etc. should be the focus of this fish's diet.

and finally, this fish grows to about a foot and a 55 gallon tank will not be large enough to house him when he's mature.
 
what does its tankmate consist of?
does it look bloated?

could be many things... from being picked on by other tankmates or sick.
 
thanks guys i dont really kno what nitrate is.
I addded some cichlid salt.He is in a tank by himself.what kind of tank should he be in because i would hate to throw him in there with my reddevil in his 75 gallon tank.even tho my devil is only 5 inches.I also kno africans dont mix with americans but i have seen large buttifokeris in tanks with reddevils so :help: would a frontosa be able to mix with a reddevil at the same size with plenty of hiding places.
 
Tilapia butikofferi is an extremely aggressive species and can probably live in the same tank with a red devil. Cyphotilapia frontosa on the other hand, is an extremely mild mannered species and doesn't stand a chance in the same tank with a red devil. moreover, the chemistry required for frontosa - a Tanganyikan cichlid, and a red devil or butikofferi which are South American and West African species respectively, is VERY different.

Tanganyikan chemistry for Cyphotilapia frontosa should be: pH 8.5-9.4, gH 240-320 ppm, and buffer capacity 180-250 ppm.

Amphilophus labiatus chemistry should be: pH around neutral, gH 80-120 ppm, buffer capacity 120-180 ppm.

adding cichlid salt, unless it's that salt made especially for Tanganyikan cichlids, will not supply the required chemistry nor mineral content.
 
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