Newbie cycling 6ft tank

simtu

AC Members
Jul 2, 2005
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Hi all

New to aquariums (had a 2foot about 13yrs ago) and i have just finished setting up my new 6x2x2 tank. I have a aquaone canister filter plus a fluval 4 internal filter running,2 300watt heaters and have added plants,drift wood and slate.
I filled it up with water yesterday and added CYCLE, i also added some filter media and plants out of a mature tank.
My question is, What do i now have to test for and do before i can add any fish, i will be putting south american cihclids in it (i know they like to dig up plants)

Cheers any help would be very appreciated
 
simtu said:
Hi all

New to aquariums (had a 2foot about 13yrs ago) and i have just finished setting up my new 6x2x2 tank. I have a aquaone canister filter plus a fluval 4 internal filter running,2 300watt heaters and have added plants,drift wood and slate.
I filled it up with water yesterday and added CYCLE, i also added some filter media and plants out of a mature tank.
My question is, What do i now have to test for and do before i can add any fish, i will be putting south american cihclids in it (i know they like to dig up plants)

Cheers any help would be very appreciated
Well, first of all, oncgrats on getting back into fish, and also allow me a moment to get over my jealousy of such a wonderful tank. Now, I feel better. So, to the issues at hand. Right out of tha gate I am going to tell you to stop using Cycle. Cycle does not speed up your cycle. It uses the wrong bacteria that we are trying to grow in a cycle and eats ammonia, which is the primary food source of the bacteria we are trying to grow to act as our biological filter. Cycle actually slows down your cycle, as counterintuitive as that sounds, there it is.

I really recommend that you read the Sticky threads at the top of this forum. All have pricelss information on things a budding aquarist should not just know, but really be somewhat familiar with. There is a thread titled, Sticky:Cycle that is most important. It explains the process of cycling a tank. Also, do a Google search for fishless cycling and you'll get some various links to sites that explain the exact method to use. For a quick and dirty version, I'll sum it up here: You need pure ammonia. You add it to your tank to reach the desired level (usually 5 ppm [parts per million]) and then, using a test kit for ammonia, test for ammonia every day. When ammonia levels drop, dose enough ammonia to get the tank back to 3-4 ppm. Soon, you'll notice you have to start dosing every day. At this point, start testing for nitrites. You should see them in pretty large numbers. Keep testing ammonia everyday and nitrite everyday. Eventually nitrite starts going down at which point you begin to test for nitrate. You should see them and once they reach around 10-20 ppm, you're pretty much there. You'd do a large water change (in the realm of 90% or more, depending on which method or version of fishless cycling you stumbled upon) and then fill the tank back up, go buy your full bio-load of fish and acclimate them slowly and eventually release them into your tank. That's a very quick and dirty, so forgive me.

The major advantage, as you may have seen, is that any fish you buy are not exposed to dangerous chemicals in great quantity. So, you are not harming your fish are reducing their lifespans. The other major bonus is that after a fishless cycle, you can add all of your fish at once. If you choose to fishy cycle, you can only make additions 2-4 at a time and only every 2-4 weeks. In a big tank like yours, you are left looking at a mostly barren tank for much longer than you would if you had simply fishless cycled. The last great advantage I can think of is the fact that during a fishy cycle you are forced to do lots of water changes. That can get very tedious after weeks or months. As you may have noticed, in fishless cycling you can have as few as one water change. Woohoo! On a big tank like yours, that's a huge plus.

You do have another option for cycling your tank, since you mentioned you will have plants. If you plant heavily and have a large plant mass, you can literally skip the cycle, because there are enough plants to eat up the ammonia. As a newb, I would've been hard pressed to figure out how many plants it would take to do this. I don't really recommend it to bginners, because if you screw up, get over anxious etc. you end up fishy cycling, and where's the fun in that? Add to this since you are doing SA Cichlids, the plant mass may be significantly reduced over time, so probably not the best route, but something to keep in mind none the less, if you end up with multiple tank syndrome down the road.

I hope that at least gave you a jumping off point for cycling information and i you have any more questions, post them! That's what AC is for. Most of all, have fun. That's what fish are supposed to be.
 
I successfully cycled a tank your size using the media from a 35g tank and a 50ish gallon tank. Depending on how much old media you added and how established the tank was, you may have avoided a cycle. You would need to test for amonia, nitrite, and nitrate. I believe as long as you are showing nitrate readings and neither of the other 2, you may have avoided the cycle. Hopefully someone will correct me if I'm off base :rolleyes: . In the meantime, read the stickys as Harlock suggested, and you'll refresh your memory on all this fish stuff and see where you're at, and what you want/need to do next :)
 
Thanks for your reply Harlock and holly9937,

What test kits do u suggest to use as i want to do this properly this time round.
and what is the difference between nitite and nitrate?

cheers

ps: this site is great, very imformative and the ppl on here are great aswell.
 
I suggest this test kit: http://www.bigalsonline.com/catalog/product.xml?product_id=19383;category_id=3233;pcid1=;pcid2= Reason beeing is that it is always bang on, and never gives you a miss read. They are really easy to use, and the booklet that comes with it is very complete.

NitrItes is very deadly to fish. It is the second chat in the cycle. You want to keep it at 0ppm, nothing higher! It is eventuly converted in to the third and final chemical nitrAtes. NitrAtes are fairly safe to fish, but are still fairly dangerous in high levels. You want to keep them below 20ppm in your adverage tank. Weekly water changes are done to keep the nitrAte levels down. (This is a vary simple easy to follow explantion)
 
For test kits, aquarium pharmaceuticals are great. From what I hear, you want to steer clear of the dip strips (too hard to read, go bad eventually).

Nitrite is NO2, Nitrate is NO3. Nitrite, in the aquarium, is a byproduct of ammonia breakdown. It's pretty toxic to fish and humans--in the aquarium, it should be at 0 ppm. Also, it's used in the making of pepperoni--helps it turn nice and red. Nitrate is a byproduct of nitrite breakdown. Much, much less toxic. Regular water changes will keep it within a reasonable range. Elsewhere, it's used in the production of nitroglycerin.
 
just thought i would post a pic of my tank set up so far
picture0484uo.jpg
 
what do u think? Should i put more rock formations\caves etc in there as i would like to get central\south american cihclids once it is cycled
 
what do u think? Should i put more rock formations\caves etc in there as i would like to get central\south american cihclids once it is cycled
 
I would definitely add more caves/hiding places. The cichlids always seem to like them. Make plenty of various sizes, too. It looks great so far. Just a suggestion for future photo shoots: turn out all of the lights and close the draperies to get the room as dark as you can (I actually shoot at night with all of the lights off excepting the tank light of course), turn off the flash, and then shoot the tank with only it's own light on. If you have a tripod, that's great, but if not, you can always brace the camera up with books, or if you've a steady hand, just go for it!
 
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