octopus

wastememphis

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Sep 6, 2003
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Could I keep an octopus temporarily in a ten gallon tank, until I had a bigger tank up and cycled. I figured as long as I start up a smaller tank with alot of live rock and do the water changes it MIGHT be fine to keep an octopus happy (the one i'm looking at is 2" yes... its very very tiny... I feel I'm going to loose it in a large tank right away, this way I can get to target feeding it too.) But what size tank is good for an octopus, its a bimaclous, but I dont know how accurate that could be. They only get that kind in, and order them form a dealer which only has those. Soooooo I was thinking another 29gallon tank, but I don't know about filtration or anything like that since its so small right now it could go up a fluval cansister filter intake. But what about a sponge filter. Is there anyway to use an overflow with an octopus, maybe??? And if I could do the 10gallon for a few weeks would it cycle fast enough that I could have the ocotpus on hold (around 5-7days) or should i just set up a tank now and wait till they get anohter one in, usually its once every 3months... this is the first one that was openly moving around in the water. I know quite a bit about them since the 29gallon tank I have now was initally suppose to be an octopus tank. I'll have an attinic light and a screen reptile top on the tank with the clamps... I dont know if i want crushed coral because they are not good with nitrates (ocotpus that is) but I know they like mid to corase substrate. But if I set up a 10gallon it would be an attnic light, substrate, heater, air pump, songe fitler... if i can't use a canister and 15-20lbs of live rock.. and a clear tube for it to hang out in. I have some frozen shrimp he can eat and I could just go to Tops or Wegmans for some more seafood, I just don't want to have a poor set up, or let this octopus get away like the others I have wanted and considered buying. I've had sucess keeping my reef tank stable and I know this will be work too... but I'm ready, its the reason I wanted to get a saltwater tank, thanks for responses. I know some of you have had octopi, I trust your advice. I have no problem buying a larger tank... but I know that I'd love just to move my corals into that hahaha but I just need to know weather or not its worth housing it in a small tank until I have a larger one ready (which shoudln't be more than a month or two).
 
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Unless you have a 50-80% water change ready for each and every time it inks (like when it sees you) it will probably die in the 10 gal pretty quick.

This is a really specialized question, and I was about to tell you to go to the cephalopods forum on Reef Central, but I see you already did. Grim Reefers might be another place to get feedback: http://grimreefers.com/forums/index.php?showforum=15
 
as long as i have the back painted and keep the attnics on, i dont think it would ink every time i saw it... Id get a bigger tank but I still dont knwo waht type of filtration to use and Id have to have that tank cycle before I put him in. I figured 10gallon now with ro water until another tank cycled or he was big enough to move??
 
Put the octopus in the reef tank. It will do fine, and quickly find any food items you introduce through its sensitive scent detection ability. Do not overfeed. Just introducing a food item will cause the octopus to go through rapid color changes, and they pounce in seconds. When they figure out where the food comes from, they will wait for you eagerly. If the reef is well established, the octopus will find some food items on its own. Do not worry about the octopus getting lost or sucked into anything. It is certainly more resourceful than you, and possibly smarter as well. It will disappear for a while, but will shortly become very visible and active. Be careful to keep the tank as escape proof as possible. Do not use metal screens, even those coated with black plastic. Very bad.

I picked up a tiny octopus in the Caribbean years ago. It was barely post-larval, less than 1/2 inch total, smaller than my pinky nail. I kept it in a drinking glass in my hotel room, and changed most of the water every day. He ate tiny marine snails I picked up , and flashed red when he seized them. He flew back to the US in a tiny plastic complimentary rum bottle, half filled with seawater, in my shirt pocket. He totally vanished into my 75 gallon reef tank for about a month. He found plenty to eat, because he reappeared much larger several weeks later, and quickly grew to raquetball size. We enjoyed each other's company for almost two years. He loved live snails, small bait store crabs, shrimp, and fish. I still reminise about the micro octopus in the water glass on my nightstand in Negril, years ago, when we both were very young.
 
Octopus are not very sensitive--they are tough as nails and can stand a huge amount of nitrates. Nor do they ink easily--had 2, never had one ink. You're better off having the ability to run carbon easily than doing huge water changes--the carbon works quicker.

Don't add it to your reef if you have shrimp/hermits/snails that you want to keep--they will be snacks. Glass covers that canbe easily weighted down are a better cover than the mesh screen.

Otherwise, yes, it can stay in a 10 for quite some time. If you can't verify this is a male, be prepared for it to lay eggs and go into seclusion with them within a few months. And then die. Males live 2-3 years, but females seldom live more than a year.

Check out here: http://www.tonmo.com/
 
Thanks orion, i'm aware of their short lifespan but i'm amazed at their habbits and a ability to learn a shedual for eating and what not. I wasn't going to put it in my reef tank, oh god... the aftermath.... that would be bad. I was thinking of using eggcrate for a top... covered with screen so it can get oxygen. I read one link that benjen sent me too and they're was alot of information saying that they need high oxygen levels... this way i could have alot of Oxygen in there. Also I could start cycling a 29gallon octo tank for the future possibly. whats your advice for substrate, sand, and what type of filter for the 10gallon tank if i have it in there, and will there be alot of amonia if i set the tank up with alot of live rock forthe first few days if i was too put this octopus on hold. Also you say to use carbon... i know i could do that with a canister or hangon replacing it with carbon but i just want to make sure it doesn't get out. I was so upset when my midas blenny jumped out... i was so attached and i only had it for about 8hrs.
 
If you have snails and shrimp in the reef tank, why not put them in th 10 gal. tank? Of course octopuses will eat shrimp, small fish, molluscs, and so on. Isn't that what you expected? They are aggressive carnivors, and thrive on live food best. A small sacrifice of some current reef inhabitants is a small price to pay, I think. Find sources of appropriate live food. Frozen stuff is ok, as long as there is some variety. An occasional crawfish or small crab, or seasnails plucked from rocks at low tide, will make your octopus love and respect you.

Throw all that screening/eggcrate in the garage. An octopus laughs at that nonsense. Glass is best as a cover, and will not limit O2 if you have good water circulation. Contrary to what others may tell you, gas equilibrium establishes itself automatically, unless you have heavy O2 demand in the water itself. You dont need an open top to reach O2 saturation. In any case, the best approach is to make the octopus happy, secure, and content where he is. This means enough food, and lots of hiding places. In fact, most of the tank should be a hiding area.

Octopuses are "tough as nails", and have the heart of a tiger. They are not a Disney toy, or a cute ornament. They are hunter/killers, among the most effective in the sea. Enjoy them for what they are. Don't try to build a small glass prison. My octopus was in an uncovered 75, with an overflow system that keep the water level two inches below the rim. He never seemed to be interested in leaving. He liked the dense rockwork in the reef tank, and saw no reason to spend time near the surface. Lots of yummy treats in the rockwork, which he would rearrange from time to time. He ate all the snails and molluscs. So what. The few shrimp I had before he moved in went into another tank.

An octopus is a totally demanding animal. They can never be "part" of a complex aquatic aquarium community. They are dominant, and will eat what's edible. They are not interested in corals, live rock, and similar things. Unless you starve one, its mind will be filled with visions of yummy fish, crustaceans, and molluscs. They need a tank that is roomy, and which has many rocks, caves, etc. They also tend to get fairly large, except for a few small species, like Joubin's Octopus.

You don't need actinic for the octopus. You should have low light levels, or many shaded areas.
 
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Agree--egg crate won't work on a small octo. They can pass through anything they can get their beak through--for an octo that has a 2 inch mantle, think a bit bigger than a lead tip of a sharpened pencil.
 
I wouldn't get a 75gallon for it now, its way to small.. its in a 6" kritter keeper at the fish store and its running all over the place, after i had a bigger tank cycled and knew how to keep it in the tank i'll move him, of coarse if he gets big i'll move him too. what filter could i use on a 10gallon tank with a glass lid, and how would i get alof of circulation through the tank for it to be happy. how long would you guys recomend keeping the 10gallon set up before introducing the octopus. I know they are not disney toys, :rolleyes:, but Id rather build and octopus tank rather than have him go in my reef tank. I have fish and lots o crabs and snails and shrimp and things it would be climbing all over(and eating)... and i thought octos liked subbdued lighting, why put him in something with bright lights and strong circulation with things like corals which could sting it (frog spawn, long tenticle plate coral). Thanks for the inmput guys
 
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