Your bulbs are fine With the exception of the roseates. That particular bulb is better for reef's then plants. While you have wattage being consumed. Its just not in the happiest of spectrum for plants. I would recommend to get some 10,000K bulbs or even some more 6500K to 6700K bulbs. It would be more beneficial to the plants. Then I would also just run all the lights for 10 hours at least. Figure in a natural day worth of sunlight there is more then just 8 hours of daylight. I run my lights at 10 hours a day. Same with the Co2. Its all on timers to turn it on and off. You could even have the Co2 kick on 30 minutes before the lights to get a little head start on the plants/light then have it turn off 1/2 hour to an hour before the lights go off to try and consume it. For me. Ive had great luck with just running it to turn on with the lights and off with the lights.
Be Consistent with your ferts. If your just spot adding some of this here and some of this there its never going to be consistent. With using EI dosing your putting MORE into the water column then is probably needed. BUT it will be there if it is needed. You could spend a eternity trying to guess what your lacking or you can just give it what it needs and let it take care of the rest itself. The 50% or greater water change at the end of the week/dosing cycle is like a reset allowing things to get back to normal.
I Highly recommend this read.
http://www.barrreport.com/showthread...nd-other-myths
The first 6 key items are actually the reasoning behind Dosing a complete set of Macro and Micro. You can adjust it. As I do. I use a modified version. Still dosing both Macro and Micro but ive tweaked my amounts i dose to get the best out of it.
Here are the first 6 key points from the article
"1. It was never meant to be applied rigidly.
2. It is a simple concept, provide non limiting nutrients without having to test to do so.
3. Adding non limiting nutrients provides the plants with optimal nutrients so folks can rule out deficiencies
4. Precise plant nutrient Deficiencies are not known for most every aquatic plant. This requires a high level of testing and things like fish food, sediments and other potential confounding factors come into play.
5. If you have lower growth, lower light, then you can make safe assumptions like using less nutrients, again, refer to #1.
6. Algae are not nutrient limited in aquariums with fish and plants. Argue this all you want, but you need to research and see what types of nutrient levels will limit algae. They are extremely low and any fish waste and plant decay, leaching etc is more than enough to supply algae with all they need. "
Imo its lack of hours of the right light. Use all the lights for a full 10 hours. You can always back off or add more later but thats a starting point. Change out the roseates. Wrong spectrum. Do a complete fert dose program. Follow the program for a month and see what happens. Finally get your Co2 dialed in. If you read that link I posted it goes on further about Co2 as well. But if you dont have enough your not utilizing. Same as it would be with the lights.. I think if you do that you will find your tank will explode in growth. Personally im looking for quality growth, More bushy and fuller with better colors. Not just fast skinny growth..
Here is what ive managed to get with dosing EI for a 46 gallon tank. Same fert schedule I posted for yours, with the right amount of Co2 and 10 hours of light at 2 watts per gallon. But my PAR data is medium to high light tank. Im having to trim weekly on some stuff and bi-weekly on others. Nice colors and full and bushy and still tall..
http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/showthread.php?259775-New-pics-of-my-46-gallon-Bowfront-%282-Viewing%29
