is there a way to COMPLETELY purge air out of canister filters that pump water from the bottom? coz i have a jebo 835, and while the primer button starts the syphon, it does not purge air COMPLETELY out of the filter. some air still remains inside the primer button. and i can see no way for the primer button to purge the air out since it is not connect to the output in any way ...
purge air out of canister
- Thread starter tanhql
- Start date
tilt it on its side. it may leak some during this process, so put a towel under it. it'll stop leaking (if it does in the first place) as soon as you stand it upright again.
With my fluval 304 I occasionally get air trapped duirng some large water changes. I normally shut the unit off for a minute, this allows the trapped air to raise to the top of the filter and gather. Then I turn the unit back on and it sends out a big bubble. That is usually the end of trapped air for me.
Ditto as TKOS with a water change. On an XP3, I unplug it and flip one of the lid latches. You can hear the air hissing and when it stops, water starts leaking since you essentially have a syphon going. I then close the latch and plug the filter back in.
beviking said:
FYI, for the XP3 run properly it has to have some air in the top of the canister. if there is no air in the canister then water is bypassing all your meda baskets and going straight into the pump intake. The XP3 has a built in purging system that will automatically discharge any extra air inside the canister (within reason).
gaines said:
You don't say? I thought they were designed NOT to allow any water bypass. I don't see how the water can enter the filter at the top and get sucked through the basket wall. Unless you are suggesting the vaccum is sufficient to suck the gasket (seated within the head by the lid of the top basket) out of it's seated position, in which it would have to physically seperate the motor unit away from the top basket cover? Whoo, if that's the case...I'm in big trouble :Angel: The laws of physics seem to dictate that the water would travel the easiest route...through the media :idea:
In real life, you won't get ALL the air out, but enough to stop any noise.
Yes, this is exactly what I was saying. The canister is designed so that water will not bypass the media baskets as long as it is at the proper level. The water enters the canister and drops down outside of the baskets. It is then sucked down the sides of the canister wall and up through the bottom of the baskets. By removing all air from within the canister, the water is able to go directly over the top of the media baskets bypassing the media.beviking said:
I am simply repeating what someone who knew a lot about these filters told me. You're more than welcome to try some experiments to see if this is true, but it makes perfect sense to me.
gaines said:
It only makes sense because you do not have the filter in front of you. It is physically impossible for the water to flow over the top of the media baskets. The top basket has a lid with a raised circular lip. This lip fits into a circular recess in the head unit which contains an O-ring. When the head unit is clamped down, the O-ring and lid lip are squeezed together. The lid is solid (non-perforated - except for the section inside the circular lip) as are the media baskets. In order for the water to flow over the media baskets, the head unit would have to be seperated from the lid. Of course, removing the O-ring would do as well or an O-ring that is worn, but a little air is not going to provoke it.
:: pokes head in, notes the lack of this problem w/ a certain brand of German made filters, leaves ::