String Algae Problems

[Aries]

I have a 30G, 96W CF, laterite gravel, C02 injection (pressurized), Fluval 404 and my tank can not seem to get rid of string algae. It groups only on the right side of the tank (opposite of the filter intake).

I have 5 SAE to help, but it is not enough.
Ammonia = 0
NitrItes = .25PPM
NitrAtes = 5 PPM
CO2 = ~17PPM
PH = ~7.6
Temp = ~74F
Carbonate Hardness = ~16
General Hardness = ~18
Light Schedule = 7.30AM to 12.30 ON, 12.30 to 4.30PM OFF, 4.30 to 9.30PM ON, 9.30 to 7.30 OFF.

I add Flourish Iron once a week, Flourish Trace twice a week, and Flourish Tabs once every 3 weeks. And Green Light Stump Remover (KNO3) ever so often (~1 every 2 weeks) becaue I am afraid of hurting my fish.

It seems to have subsided greatly after I ripped out most of my plant (went from heavy planted to lightly planted), but still exists.

What else can I do to the tank, add, change or what ever??? Any help will be appreciated.

Thanks

 

[djlen]

Aries, why did you take plants out of the aquarium? I might be wrong for this type of algae, but from all I've read, the object is for you to get to the point where the plants out-compete the algae for nutrients.
I'm dosing KNO3 every 2 or 3 days and testing to make sure the level is between 5ppm and 10ppm. My plants use THAT much, that quickly. You won't hurt your fish at those levels. Also you might want to start dosing K after adding more plants, ie. wisteria back into the tank. You're running a bright tank and need to find a balance between light, CO2 and ferts. Some of the old heads on this forum strongly suggest "load up on the plants".
I'm wondering why you're getting readings above 0 on your nitrite test. How long established is your tank?
One other thing....you might want to bring your CO2 up to 25-30 ppm.
An just one more thing. Are you burying your fert. tablets well into the soil?
Len

 

[Aries]

The plants I took out were infected with barb algae (the kind that just does not come off of plants). I no longer have a problem with this type.

I did have loads of plants and the algae still won over the plants (especially the barb algae) with similiar types of water levels.

I dont know why i get .25 either for the nitrIte. I have used this test kit before and not had any problems. I do water changes once a week (~20%) and clean the mechanical filtration part of the filter. The tank has been established for ~1 year.

I will start adding more KNO3 and keep track of the levels, but since I knew KNO3 is a bad thing, i did not want to over do it and kill fish. I do bury the tabs all the way to the bottom of the tank, is this too far?? There is ~ 2" - 2.25" of gravel.

Thanks

Aries

 

[plantbrain]

A 404 is a big old filter for this sized tank.
Reduce the flow down on it by at least 1/2.
The NO2 is cause for concern. Do weekly 50% water changes, you should never find any NO2 or NH4 in a plant tank.

CO2, at a KH of 16 degrees, a pH of 7.2-7.4 is the range you'll be after.
Remember, since you have a high KH, the differences between even 0.1pH units for the CO2 is quite great, so keep an accurate eye on it.

That will take care of Barb algae, (often called BBA) as it is very often associated with poor CO2 levels.
SAE's will curb any new growth.

Either trim the plants you have that are infected, or bleach them in a 20:1 water: bleach solution for 1-2 minutes, get some new cheapy plants(Eg Hornwort) and phase the cheap plants out as the tank recovers.

96W PC bulb is a lot of light for a 30 gallon.

Here's a little run down on how to deal with what you have: if you continue this, you will have a nice looking tank.

CO2-20-30ppm all the time when the lights are ON. Set the photoperiod for 10-12 hours of straigth lighting, none of this in between noon time nap stuff.

Nutrient dosing:
Weekly 50% water changes. Do all the trimming scrubbing, replanting, filter cleaning etc BEFORE the water change. You'll need to do extra work since the tank got mucked up here.

Afterwards:
KNO3: add 1/4 teaspoon right after the water change and 1-2x a week till the next water change.
K2SO4: add 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon after thwe water change(Once a week only).
Traces: Add trace(Iron and traces etc) 2-3x a week like the KNO3. Add 5mls of of Flourish/TMG etc for each dose. Or a mix of iron and the traces at some ratio(5mls total though).

The only thing left is PO4. GH is fine with that hard tap water (It's not run througfh a softener is it?? if so, then the Gh will be very low and the KH will be high).

You can call the water comnapny to find out their PO4 levels. Most folks need to add PO4 even if the tap is 1ppm of PO4. I use KH2PO4, about 2 rice grains worth 2-3x a week (like the KNO3 and traces) does the trick.

You will need to remove the algae that's there first, then water change, then re set the tank.

The above routine will yield about 7-8ppm of NO3 per dose of KNO3. Even if the plants used none, the max level of KNO3 would be 20-30ppm at the end of the week and then you re set the tank with a 50% water thus preventing any build up due to poor plant growth or dosing errors.

those are flat level teaspoon measurements and are accurate to within 1ppm of NO3 etc.

Quit adding stuff to the substrate, there's plenty there already.
20-30 Amano shrimps would make quick work of the algae, SAE's are good for a few species of algae, but only a couple.

Regards,
Tom Barr

 

[Aries]

Thank you for all the help. I will implement the changes asap. I will post again to let you know how all goes. It is doing fine (just barely) with minimum growth. Now I know what I need to get going in the right direction.

Thanks again. Once all goes good, I will also post pics as well.

 

[janealvarado]

Has anyone tried adding a little bacterial like they use in ponds? Something like these guys are talking about? It's supposed to be fish safe, but I'm scared to try it...

 

[jpappy789]

You would probably be better off creating your own thread rather than bumping one that is over 8 year old

My opinion is that chemicals are only a band-aid. If you have overwhelming algae then something in your tank is off and should be corrected.

 

[dundadundun]

beneficial bacteria are not additives. look up nitrosomonas and nitrobacter bacteria.

oh... and feel free to start your own thread. this one may get locked for necromancy.