Switching to saltwater

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Oiler3535

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Mar 29, 2015
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Hi! Background (question below): So I got my first aquarium about 2.5 years ago. I wanted to see if I could care for a tank well enough; I did fresh water first so the failure costs would be lower. I've successfully kept nearly all fish alive (I discovered my female bushynose pleco will kill any other algae eaters including other BNs), so am ready to move on to what I really want to do, which is a coral sustaining tank. I was originally going to keep my fresh tank going until my angels succumbed, but I am likely moving a good distance next spring/summer and with my local store willing to buy/take my fresh stock, I think I'll use it as an excuse to switch over.

Besides a better light, is there anything I absolutely have to do/know? I'll obviously research how to best cycle it to start, necessary testing kits/additives, and how to best add corals. I've got a 46G bowfront that is about 18" tall, 12" deep and 24" wide. Do I need a protein skimmer for sure? I've got a canister filter that produces a good current near the top of the tank (I've made a big diffuser bc my African butterfly doesn't like current). My long term goal is to have a tall live rock on both ends, with layers of Montipora halfway up on each sticking out toward the middle, corals above them that need the faster current, and corals below that do not. Then on the floor in the middle a mixture of things for the few small fish I'll get. Any corals I absolutely can't have near each other or in the same tank at all?
 

Oiler3535

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Mar 29, 2015
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Renfrew
So I'm definitely moving July 1 and am switching to salt. I'm seriously considering making my own rock out of oyster shells and concrete. Looks good and WAY cheaper. I've known a few people who've done it successfully. Also as my tank is only 20 inches deep (18 once add substrate) I'm thinking I'll be okay with an LED. I figure once everything is cycled and living a bit I can add a 2nd LED to ensure lots of light besides the middle. Hoping an amazon 165w led will work. Reviews seem positive. Done some research and hoping to have a largely reef tank with a few fish. Obviously will take a long time to add everything as the tank adapts in a healthy way.

Going to start with an Oscilleris (sic) for my wife, a Firefish, a few cardinals, and maybe a lawnmower blenny and or Royal Gramma. Not sure if a few of the bottom fish will cohabitate well.

As for corals, some mushrooms and acan on the bottom, a frogspawn if can find a spot with 6 inches empty around for safety, a Kenya tree and some green stars on the centre arch/cave. On the side pillars, some different coloured Montiporas, hoping the plate out nicely, some Xenia on the back glass, some candy canes and birds nest above the montiporas. Maybe a pearlberry if I can find some. Anything unfit for a beginner?

How much water flow should I buy? 46G bowfront. I was thinking the canister flow at the top aiming straight across the top making some waves, and a power head on each side pointing at the front, hoping they'll roll up the bowfront, hit each other and cause lots of turbulence. How much GPM should I be looking for for the powerheads?
 

myswtsins

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Not a salty owner myself but like where this is going! I am a DIY person though so making my own dry rock is something I am interested in. Will you be adding salt to your rock mix to create more voids/surface area?

From my research you picked some good beginner fish. Can't say for sure there are no issues with compatibility but looks good to this newb.

Looks like you really did your research and thoroughly planned out your coral selection/placement. I hope someone comes through and gives you a thumbs up.

All this research and planning so I gotta ask, why a canister filter instead of a sump? Gonna use a HOB skimmer?

Total turnover rate for a reef is generally 20x minimum.
 

Oiler3535

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Mar 29, 2015
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Thanks for input! I'll definitely be doing lots of rock salt for crevices and to make tunnels. Looking like 3oysters to 1 concrete, then once mixed and just before putting in molds mix in 1 part salt plus anything to make caves.

I'm going to use a canister just because I have it now on my freshie tank. A person I know with a bunch of tanks uses it for basic filtration and adds crushed coral instead of the bio balls in that level. And my canister only takes 5 minutes to clean so not a big deal as part of my regular cleaning. Plus one extra source of water flow I'll aim right into the middle of the tank for some lighter direct flow over the corals up top. If water quality not up to snuff then I'll buy a skimmer for sure. I just know a few guys (guy above plus the main guy at my local aquarium store) who say they never put a skimmer on small tanks.
 

OrionGirl

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I wouldn't run a canister with media. In SW, it will get gummed up with detritus and organics--tube worms and such. Cleaning it means killing them, but they're very beneficial. Better to have a space where they can live undisturbed.

Generally, you want total turnover to be in the 20X hour range.

I'm a fan of protein skimmers. They pull out a LOT of nasty stuff.

Go for a pair of clowns, ditch the firefish or cardinals and have a bigger group of what you pick. These are schooling fish, and will be happiest in the biggest group your can provide. I would avoid the lawnmower--as their name implies, they need a LOT of algae. The average tank just doesn't produce enough to keep one alive and they can be challenging to feed.
 
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Oiler3535

AC Members
Mar 29, 2015
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Renfrew
Thanks for the ideas! Especially the lawnmower. How come no on the cardinals and firefish? Especially since they're the main fish I want lol. Id read unless a big enough tank to have a lot of cardinals (which mine isn't) they're best in 1s or 2s.
 

OrionGirl

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I'd go with either the firefish or the cardinals, and then have as many as you can. One cardinal isn't very interesting, one firefish isn't very interesting. A group of either will interact and be much more interesting.
 
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