to aerate or not to aerate?

Theoretically, could I put CO2 and O2 in a reactor, which would put good concentrations of O2 and CO2 in the water, since they are independant of one another. Would this be harmful to the fish (kind of like us if we would breathe in 21% O2, 20% CO2 and 59% N)
 
pbrack,

Why would you want to introduce O2 into the water like that? If the plants are growing, they should be providing enough O2 for your fish (unless you are overstocked).

Ghostshrimp,

I agree with djlen, if they are growing well, don't bother with CO2. My plants don't grow without CO2 :( I just switched from (1) 2 liter yeast mixture to (2) 2 liter yeast mixtures. I'm hoping to get more CO2 out of this setup... we will see. There are tons of resources on this forum for DIY setups so do a search... another great resource is "The Krib" for all your aquatic planting needs.
 
You have Anubia. Get used to at least a little algae on those broad leaves. It's going to happen......period.
I have, for years advised people who have BBA problems to use SAEs as part of the solution for combating this problem. I've come to the conclusion that SAEs are not a good idea in many community tanks. IME, as they mature they stop eating algae and start getting aggressive with smaller fish. Since I've gotten rid of most of mine there is considerably less stress in the tank. It's obvious to me. And BBA is the only algae that they are used on. My opinion: don't get them.

A pet peeve of mine is 'root tabs' (any of the old timers reading this are smiling now).
I advise against them for most applications and especially in a newly set up tank where plants are bound to be moved. Root tabs are an unnecessary danger because most plants, including Swords and Crytocoryne can uptake all the nutrients they need out of the water table. Add to this the danger of uprooting them before they are spent (1 -3 months) and the resulting algae blooms, and to me, they are just not an option.
Again, injecting will help your plants regardless of whether you make any changes in the tank or not. Even if you continue using the air stones, some of the carbon you're injecting will become available to the plants. It's just that much of the element will be gassed off through surface disturbance.
Lastly, I know it sounds odd, but adding extra nutrients helps plants grow. Healthy, growing plants are the single best deterrent to algae. A good all-purpose fert. and some CO2 to get them growing and increasing your plant mass would help with your algae issues.

Len
 
Thanks a lot. So root tabs=bad. I think I'm going to do the following:

1. Get more plants and a few more otos (partly because I like them)
2. Rig up a DIY injector/difuser using a small powerhead
3. Add a small baggie of crushed coral to my filter
4. Start on a good all-purpose fertilizer regiment and change my water religiously (something like 12 gallons a week)
5. Ditch my airstones because A) the pump is noisy and B) I'm going to the effort of adding CO2, why lose any that I don't have to?

Most of my concerns were about adding ferts before my plants were growing well. I don't want to feed the algae. I guess I'll just use really small doses until the plants show some good signs of growth and then tinker with higher levels if needed.

Thanks a lot for all the advice!
 
However fancy airstone and an air-pump is, you wont ever get more than 90% of maximal oxygen concentration in the tank. With good growth of plants and enough CO2, you can get your water oversaturated with oxygen, fish are very happy with this (watch their gill moving slower ;)), so are the plants during the dark period. Airstone is not just unnecessary, it's undesirable when you have CO2 injection, for it get's so precious CO2 out of the tank.
 
Ghostshrimp55 said:
I'm going to get more plants over the course of the week (assuming that I can find some that don't look like garbage in my LFS). I think I should also get either more otos or some SAEs. I have 5 otos in my tank now and they eat algae......just not a ton of it. The honey gouramis pick at it as well and I'm assuming the ghost shrimp and mystery snails are eating it too. I would just like more help in keeping it off of the plants.

I'm still on the fence about CO2 at the moment. For now, I'm assuming that I have at least some nutrients in the water because the algae are eating something, no? Would it be worthwhile to get root tabs for the amazon and the crypt? I've noticed that the crypt is sending roots above the gravel. That means it wants food, right? Oh, and what about the anubias? I thought I read that they weren't heavy root feeders so root tabs wouldn't really help. Is this accurate?

Thanks again. This really is helping.
Click to expand...

Much has already been said, but I would like to add some things.
1. NO on the CO2, unless you have a need for it. Some plants have high demands- some people use it to lower pH- but if you don't need CO2, I would avoid it as it will cause you more problems than it will "solve". I have used CO2, in a variety of ways with varying success, and have come to the conclusion that the proper balance of other things you can control will provide very nice results. Again, this is "need" vs. "want".

2. SAE's. Someone mentioned that as they grow older they get mean. I have only seen "Flyng Fox" do this, and they are often sold as "Siamese Algae Eaters", incorrectly. Get a good book and learn how to identify Crossocheilus Siamensis (TRUE Siamese Algae Eater- not sure on the Geus/Species spelling- going on memory). I have one now, he is full gown (a good 3-4 inches) and he swims for fun with my Clown loaches up and down the side of the tank every couple of days.

3. Nearly everything that helps a plant 'outcompete' algae will help the algae compete as well. Lighting duration or intensity increase; fertilizer; CO2...excepting one thing... more plants.

4. Check your phosphates in your tap, and in your tank.

5. Have good waste eaters- Kuhli Loaches, Trumpet Snails, etc... and good algae eaters.

So-
If you have good plant growth and too much algae: feed less, don't have wasteful fish (goldfish for example), get good algae eaters, keep nitrates down, check for phosphates in your water (and tap water), don't use things like pH down that can add phosphates, and add more plants. I would change nothing but those things until you stop having an algae "problem". Then you could consider maybe some CO2, if your plants are then bumming you out with poor growth.

You might want to adjust your lighting down an hour or two each day and see what happens as well.

In my 65, I hardly ever have to fight with algae at ALL. It is heavily planted, I have to prune plants out, I turned my CO2 off long ago, I only run about 75W of T5 lighting, no fert except an occasional micronutrient dose and a flourite-like mix in the substrate...
 
Ghostshrimp55 said:
My tank parameters:
pH was 7 but is now 7.75 (I think this has to do with the lack of fertilzers and the plant's uptake of nutrients)
KH is 3 (I'd like to raise this a little but don't know how...I think I asked that on this site before but I don't remember if I got an answer)
GH is 5
Ammonia 0
Nitrites 0
Nitrates 10-20
Temp is 80 F


Hope this is enough info to help.

Oh, and if you need to know this, the fshy inhabitants are:
4 marble veil tail angels
4 honey gouramis
3 julii corys
3 schwartzii corys
5 otocinclus cats
6 zebra danios (hate them)
2 mystery snails
6 ghost shrimp
Click to expand...

Two things-
1. I would lower your temp... too high for those fish, IMO. 74-76 is plenty high. There is also more gas in solution at lower temps, and this is better for fish AND plants.
2. I am no chemistry expert, but you should really check with someone who is reallllllly up on the effects of CO2 on pH and crashing, with those hardness parameters. Your water is VERY soft, and you could deplete your buffer very fast.

Ghostshrimp55 said:
He mentions a product called Flourish excel. What is it and should I use that in place of CO2 injection? Is it also a fertilizer?

Thanks again!
Click to expand...

It is probably a micronutrient additive. Yes, a fertilizer, but if it is like the Flourish I have, it is mostly for adding micronutrients that a typical aquarium water column is devoid of, but that nature generally provides...
 
Flourish excel adds C to the water (Just like CO2 does). The thing is, it's quite expensive and it doesn't last long. For small aquariums, it's good. But for 20 and up, I would go for CO2 if need be

Hope this helps
 
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