When I do water changes I have always treated the water before adding it to the tank. I have a 38 gallon and change about 5 gal in the middle of the month. Then at the end of the month take every thing out (except for the fish) and vacuum the bottom to remove about 10 - 15 gal. A friend of mine says she just adds tab water to the tank and then adds the treatment straight into the tank. What does other people do here? If I treat the tab water in the tank do I put the treatment into the filter or just sprinkle it on the top. I worry about the fish being in the chlorine to long.
Treat water before adding to tank?
- Thread starter NewLoverOfFish
- Start date
Hiya, welcome to the forum 
To answer your question about dechlorinator, what you're doing is best - if you get the chlorine out of the water before you add it to the tank, there's no chance of the fish being harmed by chlorine.
I know this wasn't your question, but I just wanted to offer a suggestion about routine maintenance/water changes - I think you're working way too hard! With a 38g tank, you may want to get a Python for doing water changes. It's a hose that attaches to your tap, and allows you to suction water out of the tank along with debris (there's a gravel vacuum attached) and then reverse the flow, pouring clean water back into the tank (you can put dechlorinator in the tank before you start pouring new water in, and it's dechlorinated as it enters). Much easier than buckets, and easier means you'll do more frequent, higher volume water changes, which means you'll have happier, healthier fish.
As for taking everything out of the tank, I'd stop doing that if you can - fish like to establish areas of their own in the tank, and you're rearranging the neighborhood every month! Not only does this stress the fish, it's also an awful lot of work for you!
To answer your question about dechlorinator, what you're doing is best - if you get the chlorine out of the water before you add it to the tank, there's no chance of the fish being harmed by chlorine.
I know this wasn't your question, but I just wanted to offer a suggestion about routine maintenance/water changes - I think you're working way too hard! With a 38g tank, you may want to get a Python for doing water changes. It's a hose that attaches to your tap, and allows you to suction water out of the tank along with debris (there's a gravel vacuum attached) and then reverse the flow, pouring clean water back into the tank (you can put dechlorinator in the tank before you start pouring new water in, and it's dechlorinated as it enters). Much easier than buckets, and easier means you'll do more frequent, higher volume water changes, which means you'll have happier, healthier fish.
As for taking everything out of the tank, I'd stop doing that if you can - fish like to establish areas of their own in the tank, and you're rearranging the neighborhood every month! Not only does this stress the fish, it's also an awful lot of work for you!
Thanks for the suggestions. The change mid-month is just off the top to clean out some of the amonia. Should I continue this? I've seen the Python and it does look easy and your suggestion to add dechlorinator first to tank makes sense. I take everything out to make sure all old food is removed. It's just plastic plants and some things to swim around and through. I thought a change of scenery would make it less boring for them. (I also like rearranging furniture in the house 
) Is it OK just to remove things on one side 1 month to vaccum and then the others side next month?
Someone at the fish store once told me the fish stomachs are only as big as one of the fish eyes, so don't feed too much. Has anyone heard of this?
) Is it OK just to remove things on one side 1 month to vaccum and then the others side next month?Someone at the fish store once told me the fish stomachs are only as big as one of the fish eyes, so don't feed too much. Has anyone heard of this?
If there's measurable ammonia in the tank, it's important to find out why - ammonia is very toxic to the fish. A properly functioning biological filter should prevent any ammonia and nitrite in the tank - these will be converted to nitrate by the bacteria, and when nitrate levels get ~20ppm you can bring them down by doing a water change. Many of us do weekly water changes; it's a good way to ensure that nitrate and other toxins don't build up and keep all the water parameters steady.
I personally wouldn't change/move the decor too often; if you move a plant/decoration to vacuum, replace it where it was so the fishes' territories remain the same.
If there's uneaten food on the bottom, that's a sure sign of overfeeding. I don't know about fishes' stomachs being the size of their eyes, but they are pretty small. Unless they're very small, fish are fine being fed only once a day.
I personally wouldn't change/move the decor too often; if you move a plant/decoration to vacuum, replace it where it was so the fishes' territories remain the same.
If there's uneaten food on the bottom, that's a sure sign of overfeeding. I don't know about fishes' stomachs being the size of their eyes, but they are pretty small. Unless they're very small, fish are fine being fed only once a day.
I've never heard of a Python before... it sounds fabulous! I just use a siphon with a bucket and dump the water out in the bathtub. About how much do they run? And how long are the hoses?
http://www.pythonproducts.com/nospill.htm
Is the company website. They're not cheap but they're worth it. I've seen people post that you can get a waterbed water change kit (faucet attachment) and some hose, and that's almost as good if a Python isn't in your budget.
A Python could completely change how you feel about maintenance - they're wonderful
Is the company website. They're not cheap but they're worth it. I've seen people post that you can get a waterbed water change kit (faucet attachment) and some hose, and that's almost as good if a Python isn't in your budget.
A Python could completely change how you feel about maintenance - they're wonderful
Python's not kinky
the Python tubing is more kink resistant than the clear vinyl tubing that you find in the hardware store.
If you make your own, take the time to learn how to coil the hose properly, for once it is stored kinked it is pretty close to ruined. Hot water may help open the kink but it will be prone to kinking forever at that spot.
the Python tubing is more kink resistant than the clear vinyl tubing that you find in the hardware store.
If you make your own, take the time to learn how to coil the hose properly, for once it is stored kinked it is pretty close to ruined. Hot water may help open the kink but it will be prone to kinking forever at that spot.