umm...HELP? Cloudy water after pH neutralization!

L

LGWapnitsky

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Nov 18, 2009
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I went and got my water tested yesterday. I was told my pH was a little high (7.5) and my nitrates were high as well. i was advised to vacuum the gravel (hadn't been done since before i acquired the tank with the house over a year ago) and add a pH neutralizer before adding new fish.

I got home and vacuumed the gravel, removing about 12 gallons of water at the same time. I then added in about 15 gallons (the tank was running low before I started) of treated water and added in the neutralizing powder. This morning I woke up and my tank is all cloudy. Should I be worried? The fish look fine for now, but I'm not sure. I'm very tempted to fix up the Magnum 350 that came with the tank and add it to the Emperor 400 that's already running (the magnum hoses were dried and caused a mess...that's why the replacement was done).

HELP!
 
The cloudy water could be, but probably isn't, a result of the pH neutralizer. Generally, those pH chemicals are useless, and will only work temporarily. In most cases the buffering capacity of your water will reset the pH to what it was before adding the chemical.
If you hadn't ever vacuumed the gravel before, you've probably stirred up a ton of debris and caused yourself an algae bloom from all the extra nutrients added to the water column. This will pass with water changes and continued gravel vacs.

As far as the extra filtration, you'll have to give us some more stats on your tank. How many gallons?
 
Those pH adjusting chemicals can do more harm than a pH that is not correct. A stable pH is what is important. When you add a pH adjusting chemical you are causing a rapid change in pH that can harm your fish more than if you left your pH be.
 
thrak76 said:
The cloudy water could be, but probably isn't, a result of the pH neutralizer. Generally, those pH chemicals are useless, and will only work temporarily. In most cases the buffering capacity of your water will reset the pH to what it was before adding the chemical.
If you hadn't ever vacuumed the gravel before, you've probably stirred up a ton of debris and caused yourself an algae bloom from all the extra nutrients added to the water column. This will pass with water changes and continued gravel vacs.

As far as the extra filtration, you'll have to give us some more stats on your tank. How many gallons?
Click to expand...

75 Gallon tank, bala shark, 13" long pleco, two black skirt tetras. Gravel bottom, some shells rocks and plastic plants. Running an Emperor 400 on the back.

BTW - is it possible to hook the Magnum up to the Emperor? I've seen the Magnum/Biowheel kits, and the Magnum manual I saw on line states it can be hooked up to a Biowheel filter, but i"m not sure how.

Thanks to everyone for the great quick responses.
 
I suggest getting your own liquid test kit (API is highly recommended) so you can regularly test for ammonia, nitrites and nitrates. I would also recommend partially vacuuming your gravel with every weekly water change.

I'd also recommend getting new hoses for the magnum and using it along with the Emperor 400. The more filtration the better. Especially if your not regularly vacuuming your gravel.
 
I would get the magnum going as soon as possible. An emperor 400, while an awesome filter, is just not able to run a 75 gallon all by itself. Both of them running together would be a good combo.
 
How many times do these pH myths need debunking?

1. pH 7.5 is not high; it's virtually neutral.
2. Fish are not particularly sensitive to pH anyway.
3. Fish adapt to pH changes very quickly; a matter of minutes
4. A stable pH is not necessary; fluctuations do no harm, as anyone whose measured the pH of a planted aquarium over 48 hours could tell you.

pH only matters in the following situations:

1. Breeding certain fish whose eggs are pH sensitive
2. Interpreting total ammonia readings to assess toxicity
3. Estimating CO2 levels in planted tanks.
4. Spotting OTS by seeing a pH crash
5. In very low pH situations (<5.5) the filter bacteria can be inhibited.

Other than that, if it stays between 6 and 9 you don't need to worry. Doesn't stop the industry making a bleedin' fortune out of adjusters, and people suffering conniptions over the issue.

Measure your GH and KH. They're about a hundred times more important.
 
it is due to the ph adjusters. i dont remember how or why but an abundance of ph adjusters will participate out of solution and cloud your water. do a large water change and throw out your newly purchased ph adjusters. Adding the 350 to the tank would work great. dont run it into your existing filter unless you want water to end up on your floor. the 350 attached to a biowheel is a special attachment made for teh 350.
 
I expect this precipitation is how they work. Form an insoluble compound with the alkalis in the water which are raising the pH.
 
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