URGENT!!! How do I set up a hospital tank?

Jspigs

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Aug 5, 2009
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Jacob
URGENT!

My Betta has fin rot and I need to set up a hospital tank to treat him in.

The tank would be something like this one: http://www.petco.com/product/12031/...N_Shopping_FishSupplies_AquariumsandFurniture

I plan on putting in an airstone and leaving the tank bare bottom is this right? Also could I add some java moss to the tank or would meds kill it?

Should I move my heater to the hospital tank?

What meds should I use to treat fin rot? Can I use both maracyn 1 and maracyn 2 at the same time so that I treat both possible causes of fin rot (bacteria and fungus)?

I need to know this stuff ASAP because My mom is taking me to my new lfs very soon to get all the stuff.

PLEASE RESPOND.
 
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If you had fungus you'd know it - it appears as long grey tufts. It's rare anyway; nearly always a bacterial issue.
 
I guess I have bacterial fin rot then. But I still need to know if I can mix maracyn 1 and maracyn 2 because maracyn 1 treats 1 type of bacteria while maracyn 2 treats another type, both say they can treat fin rot.
 
Yes, you can mix those meds. I would recommend first donig daily water changes to provide the most pristine environment possible. Then if you notice secondary signs of infection, medicate.
 
I agree with Jinkzie... pure water may be all he needs. Could you post some pics of Fred so we could see how far along the finrot is?

If it does become necessary, you could use Maracyn and Maracyn II together. Another choice could be Jungle Labs Fungus Eliminator. It is a good medication to treat fin rot and some other infections.

It's easy to use, though I would get a plastic (sterilite) tub from WalMart that holds 10 gallons of water to use as a hospital tank rather than the small critter keeper. Most of the meds are prepared for dosing 10 gallons, this way you won't have to worry about cutting the tablets in pieces small enough for the little critter keeper you show on that link. Or dividing the Maracyn and Maracyn II into smaller doses, since those meds are in little packets with the proper dose for a 10 gallon..

For a hospital tank I would put a heater in it and keep the temp around 76 degrees, have a filter on it with no carbon, just to circulate the water and add O2. An air stone would be good.

Keep the light in the room low and hopefully the room will be quiet.

Pristine water is the most important factor, though. You need to do daily water changes. I would do 80-90% water change every day... then dose the tank. Wait 24 hours and do the big water change and then dose the tank.

Either choice on the meds would be good. About the Jungle labs product, they call it "Fungus" medicine because they know that most people that see bacterial infection, especially Columnaris, think their fish has fungus, but the medication actually contains antibiotics to treats bacterial infections.

You hopefully don't have Columnaris, which appears on the body of the fish as lesions that are cottony, dull flat gray areas, or red edges around cottony areas. Fungus has long hairlike strands, more like what you might see growing on a slice of bread or some old veggie.

I hope this helps.

The most important thing is pure clean water. Most fish have remarkable recuperative powers if kept in pristine water.


If you do have to start medication, regular water changes before each treatment allow for a more effective treatment. These water changes will lower dissolved organics that not only absorb your latest medication dose (rendering it less effective), but as well can increase the toxic side effects of the treatment. The bottom line is that water changes before each treatment dose is a must for the best results.
 
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I would fill the the hospital tank 1/2 full with the water from the aquarium the sick fish is coming from (the organism is already present in that tank, don't sweat transferring it to the hospital tank in the water--the fish alone will do that), fill the rest of the way with the type of water you usually use for water changes. Bring the temp of the hospital tank up to within +/- 1 degree F of the water the fish is now in, with a heater--then just leave the SMALL heater in the hospital tank, set it for 76-78 degrees F, or higher, if required, suggested, indicated.

You can now move the fish to the hospital tank (this is about the best way to reduce the stress on a sick fish I know of), it is taken for granted you WILL move the fish to the hospital tank within the time frame of both tanks being with in a couple of degrees temp, or smaller temperature difference.

I would also add a clean air stone or small foam filter to the hospital. And, I would begin treatment with antibiotics immediately (I leave it to you and/or others to determine the best type for you); it can't hurt. Your hospital tank is tiny, so the cost of meds are very low. And, I have never seen antibiotics do harm, even when overdosed 2x or more--in a hospital tank environment.

This is what I do in such cases.

Regards,
TA
 
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The hospital tank is about three gallons.

Also would java moss survive in a tank with maracyn/maracyn 2 in it?
 
The hospital tank is about three gallons.

Also would java moss survive in a tank with maracyn/maracyn 2 in it?

Boy, I don't know the exact answer to that one. If I wanted to place a plant in my hospital tank, I would have to research that particular plants susceptibility to the med(s) in question. You are right in being cautious though, many meds do NOT give proper cautions on their labeling in regards to plants!

Just to give you a frame of reference, I never use plants in the hospital tank. Hopefully, someone who has/does can give you adequate advise there. Sorry.

When I was a noob, I have killed tank-fulls-of-plants when medicating whole planted tanks--I did figure out antibiotics are, generally, a LOT safer in such situations than various other meds and salts! I was an idiot; I do not recommend being an idiot ... :duh:

Regards,
TA
 
i wouldn't add moss, y ou want to be able to clearly monitor the fish and keep things very clean. Moss has the tendency to trap debris. Since you are treating fin rot, I would just have it be a plain tank.
 
I was just thinking it would help keep ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate low.



Edit: I have set up my hospital tank with a bubble bar, a heater, a thermometer, and some fake plants for my Betta to hide in.
 
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