i've read about these and kinda how they work. Does anyone use them? is it neccesary, what are the advantages or disadvantages of them?
!!!!!NEW TANK SHOULD BE IN NEXT WEEK!!!!!!!
!!!!!NEW TANK SHOULD BE IN NEXT WEEK!!!!!!!
UV Sterilizers
- Thread starter audio77
- Start date
i'm going to run a amiracle MR400 trickle and a mag drive pump. in this set up, where do i put the UV sterilizer? it looks like the rainbow lifegard would be the best one for my setup cause it apperas to be able to go inline. keeping me from needing anything else to hang on the tank, or any other hoses hanging in the tank. can someone tell me how/where it would connect. Is one of these things worth it?
There's only a few uses for these.
Disease and algal blooms.
Disease is seldom a problem if folks do water changes, don't overstock, quarantine etc. The down side to using one all the time is the fish get use to not using any immune system. Tranferring them to a tank without an UV may cause problems there.
Basically, they do not do any real good except for when the disease happens, which is rare at best if you take care of the animals, or when a bacteria/algae bloom happens and in both cases, you'll only need the UV during the 1-4 days it takes to get rid of it.
The rest of year(s) it'll sit idle. A lot of $ for something(80$+) that you don't use much.
No one needs one and most folks don't have one.
Using it all the time waste electricity, wears out the bulbs also.
To add one, you can make a U shaped pvc diverting channel and connect to the return pipe's water using 2 "T" connecters. Each one of the T's is an "in" and an "out". Place a ball valve in the middle of these T's along the return line. By turning off the valve, the water will be diverted to the U shaped line and the in/out of the UV.
You can slow the amount down that passes through the UV by letting more water bypass the U shaped line by simply opening the valve up some.
It'd be a good idea to add a ball valve to the return line either way.
Regards,
Tom Barr
Disease and algal blooms.
Disease is seldom a problem if folks do water changes, don't overstock, quarantine etc. The down side to using one all the time is the fish get use to not using any immune system. Tranferring them to a tank without an UV may cause problems there.
Basically, they do not do any real good except for when the disease happens, which is rare at best if you take care of the animals, or when a bacteria/algae bloom happens and in both cases, you'll only need the UV during the 1-4 days it takes to get rid of it.
The rest of year(s) it'll sit idle. A lot of $ for something(80$+) that you don't use much.
No one needs one and most folks don't have one.
Using it all the time waste electricity, wears out the bulbs also.
To add one, you can make a U shaped pvc diverting channel and connect to the return pipe's water using 2 "T" connecters. Each one of the T's is an "in" and an "out". Place a ball valve in the middle of these T's along the return line. By turning off the valve, the water will be diverted to the U shaped line and the in/out of the UV.
You can slow the amount down that passes through the UV by letting more water bypass the U shaped line by simply opening the valve up some.
It'd be a good idea to add a ball valve to the return line either way.
Regards,
Tom Barr
One might consider a reason some don't use UV sterilizers is that they are not readily available. Of course cost is another. Mine has an 18 watt bulb which I don't consider a waste of electricity. I think these devices are good to use but - not a 'must have' item.
If you consider them to be good, could you share with us the advantages your particular unit gave you?
I have the double helix (like Joe) but, 36 watt by Custom Sealife.
Before installing it, my water parameters were fine, but the tank would continually suffer from bacteria / algae blooms.
After installing the UV, I have had crystal clear water ever since. That is the NUMBER ONE reason I have it.
The U.V. will kill (if properly installed) all free-floating bacteria and algae thus, no more bacteria / algae blooms.
For heavy bioload tanks (like my stingray tank), I think a U.V. is a definite plus for the filtration system. Many ray owners suffer from the blooms and are now considering U.V.s.
And, audio:
I have (like I replied in the other forum) the same w/d filter but, I use 3 Rio 2500 pumps. Two of them feed from the sump and go directly to the tank. The third pump feeds from the sump, then into the U.V. and then to the tank. I have the U.V. hanging (horizontally) under the tank (in the cabinet) right above the w/d.
The water should be mechanically filtered before going into the U.V. (which yours would do since it would go thru the w/d first before reaching your pump).
I guess if I had one pump (like your mag 12), I would set-up two "Y" valves (inbetween the pump and the tank) and run tubing from the first Y to the U.V. and then back to the second Y (and put a one-way valve in there somewhere).
OR, I would put a second (small) pump in the sump, feed the U.V. with this pump and then from the U.V., run a line to connect into the Mag 12's line that is going back to the tank.
OR, same as the second idea, but have the return line from the U.V. end right underneath the Mag 12's IN line so that it would grab that water and shoot it into the tank.
Hope this helped.
Richard.
Before installing it, my water parameters were fine, but the tank would continually suffer from bacteria / algae blooms.
After installing the UV, I have had crystal clear water ever since. That is the NUMBER ONE reason I have it.
The U.V. will kill (if properly installed) all free-floating bacteria and algae thus, no more bacteria / algae blooms.
For heavy bioload tanks (like my stingray tank), I think a U.V. is a definite plus for the filtration system. Many ray owners suffer from the blooms and are now considering U.V.s.
And, audio:
I have (like I replied in the other forum) the same w/d filter but, I use 3 Rio 2500 pumps. Two of them feed from the sump and go directly to the tank. The third pump feeds from the sump, then into the U.V. and then to the tank. I have the U.V. hanging (horizontally) under the tank (in the cabinet) right above the w/d.
The water should be mechanically filtered before going into the U.V. (which yours would do since it would go thru the w/d first before reaching your pump).
I guess if I had one pump (like your mag 12), I would set-up two "Y" valves (inbetween the pump and the tank) and run tubing from the first Y to the U.V. and then back to the second Y (and put a one-way valve in there somewhere).
OR, I would put a second (small) pump in the sump, feed the U.V. with this pump and then from the U.V., run a line to connect into the Mag 12's line that is going back to the tank.
OR, same as the second idea, but have the return line from the U.V. end right underneath the Mag 12's IN line so that it would grab that water and shoot it into the tank.
Hope this helped.
Richard.
thanks SAMSON, that really helps. i think the second idea would work without too much hassle. i found a diagram on the back of a rainbow box that showed the UV installed right behind the w/d. In other words,... out the pump(in the sump) right into the UV right into the tank. that sounds cheaper and simple, would that not work? 
sorry, i'm not tryin to be a bone head
mike
sorry, i'm not tryin to be a bone head
mike
No problem.
If I understand you correctly, you're set-up will be like this:
Mag12 (in sump) - Line going to U.V. - Line from U.V. going into tank.
If that's the case, the only problem is that the water flow will be too fast. I'm guessing here that the mag12 with about 5' of head (and going through the U.V.) will be around 800gph.
A U.V. is more efficient with the water flow much lower than that. It depends on the brand you buy, but basically, the longer each same "piece" of water is in the U.V., the longer the bulb has to kill the parasite/bacteria/algae, etc. The idea is to get the greatest "kill" ratio in one pass thru the U.V.
My Double Helix 36 watt is rated (if I remember correctly) most efficient between 100gph and 500gph. I estimate I'm sending water thru there at about 300gph.
If your flow is very slow, it will kill a lot but it will take a lot longer to kill everything in the tank. Too fast and it won't kill everything during one pass. Target the middle of your brand's recommended range.
If I understand you correctly, you're set-up will be like this:
Mag12 (in sump) - Line going to U.V. - Line from U.V. going into tank.
If that's the case, the only problem is that the water flow will be too fast. I'm guessing here that the mag12 with about 5' of head (and going through the U.V.) will be around 800gph.
A U.V. is more efficient with the water flow much lower than that. It depends on the brand you buy, but basically, the longer each same "piece" of water is in the U.V., the longer the bulb has to kill the parasite/bacteria/algae, etc. The idea is to get the greatest "kill" ratio in one pass thru the U.V.
My Double Helix 36 watt is rated (if I remember correctly) most efficient between 100gph and 500gph. I estimate I'm sending water thru there at about 300gph.
If your flow is very slow, it will kill a lot but it will take a lot longer to kill everything in the tank. Too fast and it won't kill everything during one pass. Target the middle of your brand's recommended range.
gotcha, well i'll have to do some homework. big als online has great deals on the customsealife and the rainbow. sounds like the custom sealife has better coverage. i'll have to check the flow rates of them and match it up to my pump. maybe even drop a pump size to the 9.5. i'd much rather do it correctly now then try to work it into the system later, when its full of water and running with rays! i like the constant water changer, but no good way to do it, cause i built my house on a slab...
oh well. maybe i'll plumb a drain line right out the side of the vinyl siding...!!!!!
appriciate your help as usual samson
mike
oh well. maybe i'll plumb a drain line right out the side of the vinyl siding...!!!!! appriciate your help as usual samsonmike