Why do my fish keep dying?

For a few weeks at least I would put the white ammo chips in your filter. Nitra-Zorb is another brand. Recharge it every 4-5 days. Use as much as you can fit in your filter. It removes the amonia,nitrate & nitrite from your water. You soak it in salt water to recharge it, as per the directions on the pkg. Use carbon . You didn't say what kind of filter you have, but if you can fit it in put a sponge there as well. I run 2 filters on all my tanks < if you can do this, great. Get a 300 aquaclear, and never clean both filters at the same time. If you can't, then just make sure you don't change all the media in the filter at one time.
I firmly believe that a tank with live plants is more stable than without. Both anubias and java fern are easy to grow and neither have to be planted. Just attach them to a peice of driftwood or ornament. Remove any leaves that die.
Change 40-50% of your water every other day for the first month or more, and after that check your water at 4 days & if its still good change 40-50% of your water every week,forever. I'm not a believer in using the test to determine how often to change your water, because that implies that the water doesn't need to be changed until it goes "bad", and my goal is to keep the water as perfect as possible. I would set some of your tap water aside for 24 hours and then test it for everything. It needs to sit to get an accurate reading, and this will tell you what you are starting out with. Treat with a dechlorinator/conditioner if you have any doubts at all about your tap water.
Buying healthy fish is a whole page in itself, so i'll skip it. I'm also going to assume you have no place to quarentine your fish. When you buy fish,float their bag until you are certain that the temperature in the bag is the same as your tank. Then very slowly add small amounts of tank water to the bag until you have at least 2-3 times the water you started out with. This should take over an hour. Then put a large bowl in your sink, put your net across the bowl and pour the water from the fish bag through the net into the bowl until the bottom of the net is under water, then empty the remaining water and fish into the net/bowl. I then take bowl and net to the tank and transfer the fish from the bowl to the tank as quickly as possible. The whole point of this is to avoid stressing the fish any more than you have to. When putting new fish in your tank, keep the light out at least for a few hours. The less stressed the fish are the less likely they are to die on you.
 
I ran several test on the water last night. I'm still not sure what they all mean. So here they are
TEMP - 76 degrees
pH - 8.2
nitrite - .2 ppm
ammonia - .025 ppm

What does all this mean and what should I do ??????
 
I would re check the cycling threads to get exact info on how much and how often you should be doing water changes (sorry I don't know off hand, I'm sure someone does though!) When the tank is cycled your amonia and nitrites should be 0, any levels of either can be stressful/harm the fish. Nitrate I think it is suggested to be no more than 40 at the highest. I am guessing the water changes are your best bet!
 
debster said:
I ran several test on the water last night. I'm still not sure what they all mean. So here they are
TEMP - 76 degrees
pH - 8.2
nitrite - .2 ppm
ammonia - .025 ppm

What does all this mean and what should I do ??????
It means your tank is not cycled. Start doing 50% water changes on a daily basis and then testing the water afterward. You want ammonia at .25 or less in my opinion, same with nitrites. Don;t add any more fish to this tank until you get readings of ammonia and nitrites of zero for two days in a row. Once you get to the point, add only one or two fish at a time with at least one week between additions but read on, it may be longer than a week! Test the water daily still and change when needed or at least once per week do a 50% water change, but be prepared to change it more often if the test indicates you should. Once again, you wait until nitrites and ammonia are at Zero for two days solid, then, add two more fish, yada yada yada.
 
What test kit are you using? The master test kit someone mentioned above contains a booklet that explains every test and when numbers are bad. I had the same prob...I got numbers but I didnt know if they were bad or not or what to do. That booklet helped, but the people here are just as good...well better to help.

everything else i'd say would repeat harlock and others.

good luck!

Do you put conditioner in your water at water changes?
 
Thank you to everyone. I feel like I am starting to get a handle on things. I have been doing 50% water changes and my nitrate and ammonia have been at O for two days :o The fish (6 black phantom tetras) seem so much happier :dance and the water is crystal clear. I also added 2 - 6" air stones. Does anyone know if this is of any real benifit or is it more just for look :confused: ?
 
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Deb, also at this point the nitrItes are much more important that the nitrAtes. Nitrites should (ideally) be 0. Plus, I think the airstone can help, I have read conflicting info as to their benefit, but they definately don't hurt, they can help to add a little more oxygen and aerate the water a little more than your filter might be doing. Keep up on the water changes and testing and you'll start to get a feel as to where you are in the process as time goes on! Good luck :dance
 
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