Why My SAE are Dying so Fast?

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fishnearby

Registered Member
Sep 4, 2004
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Hi Everybody,

I've just registered and I need to ask a question.
I'm baffled -- why are my Siamensis (algae eaters) dying so fast?

About a month or so, I purchased from Arizona Aquatic Garden 6 small true siamenses. Their sizes were about 2.5 to 3 inches long. Among 6, 4 survived the trip. Within a week one died, and another died the following week. 2 were left the, and they seemed OK. They cleaned up very well. Last week, the 3rd one died. So I went to LFS (Nippon Gold Fish) and purchased 3 more. After studying the illustrations, and because Arizona Garden guaranteed that what they have are True Siamenses, I'm able to tell the true ones from the false ones. 3 new Siamenses were 1.5" and each had a pair of barbs and no clear white line above the black line. The black line goes all the way to the end of the tails. A few days ago, one of them died and I can't find another one. So there were only 2 left. A large one from AAG and a small one from LFS. Yesterday morning, the last of the AAG siamenses died. At the moment in the tank there are one small siamenses and about 7 Dwarf or Pygmy Corydoras. The Corydoras haven't had any problems at all, all this time. (One Cory seems pregnant).

The following is the description of my tank:

It is a 10 gallon glass tank with Eclipse 1 hood w/ 2 lamps I keep heating temp.73, but usually tank temp is between 76 to 82. I'm in San Francisco and today's weather is very warm so my tank is currently 82. I add some water every 2 weeks or whenever I noticed water level is low. I keep PH 6.8 to 7. I use AmAqua and Neutral Regulation to take toxin out of the tap water and use Discuss buffer or Acid buffer to lower the PH.
I also add following supplements: Kent Zeo Freshwater, Kent Pro Plant, Plant Gro, Flourish Iron (when Barclaya become a less red).
The floor of the tank is mixed layers of Flora Base, Volcanit and various size pebbles, mostly without sharp edges.

I am feeding the fish O.S.I. Freshwater Aquarium Flake Food, and Tetramin Rich Mix and sometimes waffle for the bottom eaters. The Siamensis also eats all the foods I gave for the Corries plus cleaning the glass and plants.

Currently the following plants are planted: Frills, several Bananas, Baby's tears, Java fern, several C. willisiis& wendtiis, Barclaya, one of Echinodorus (it looks like Amazon sword)also E.latifolius and several mystery lily bulbs.

The bulbs and bananas all have leaves and stems they seem OK except Echinodorus (the one that looks like Amazon sword) which is turning pale. Does this have some connection to the dying of SAE? I've just added Coralife Nutri Grow Plant Lamp. I'm thinking to replace Eclips original lamp with Flora Sun.

I would be very grateful if someone can advise me.
Thank you.

Fish Nearby
 
It is a 10 gallon glass tank with Eclipse 1 hood w/ 2 lamps I keep heating temp.73, but usually tank temp is between 76 to 82. I'm in San Francisco and today's weather is very warm so my tank is currently 82. I add some water every 2 weeks or whenever I noticed water level is low. I keep PH 6.8 to 7. I use AmAqua and Neutral Regulation to take toxin out of the tap water and use Discuss buffer or Acid buffer to lower the PH.
Click to expand...

Well, I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but a 10g is too small for SAE's. They do get 6'' long and are shoaling fish. Another problem is that you are using chemicals to alter your pH, which almost always does more harm than good. The reason is that, for fish and plants, a stable pH is far more important than the "correct" pH. Fish are extremely adaptable. For example, I have discus in 3 tanks, two tanks have a pH of 8 and the other has a pH of 7.4(and is also heavily planted). Also, have you been supplimenting your tank with algae wafers, zuccini or cucumber since the algae is all gone? If not, it would be a good idea, as SAE's need vegietable matter in their diet..

You also need to consider doing more than just toping off the tank. Water changes are a must for any tank, and 20% a week water change is considered the bare-minimum by most. The reason is that, if you just top off, you're nitrates will rise and rise... when they should be under 30ppm. Also, your TDS will continue to rise, which could cause problems with your fish.

Hope this helps you out some. Good luck! :)
 
Re: SAE dying so fast.

Thank you for the advice of changing water. (See reply on duplicate) I will take 25% of water out and add fresh water. I could test the content of water. I have some testing kit. I remember that Arizona Aquaric Garden mentioned about these fish are delicate ... but this is way beyond the description, "Delicate". I had SAE once before and that fish lived quite a long time until I gave it to my brother in law and he killed it by accident. As for the 10 gallon tank, well there's only one SAE and about 7 Pigmy Corries at the moment so it is OK, I think.

Thanks again,
Fish Nearby
 
Re: SAE dying so fast.

Thank you PumaWard!

With this advice, my one and only SAE might get to be 6". I'm not planning to add new fish. The corries are having fun swiming up and down, going across the tank because nobody is harrassing them.

Thanks again,
FN
 
You're welcome :)

Hmm, SAE's aren't suppose to be delicate, nor are any of their commonly mistaken brethren. Perhaps the water changes will improve their health.

The SAE will be okay for now, but, in the long run, you should think at least about a 20g long for him. I know my little guys (only at about 2'') love swimming all over the place in a 55g.
 
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