How about phosphate reactors?

ricsreef

ricsreef

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Jun 22, 2007
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I found a AquaC XP Plus for $50 and I was wondering if this is a good reactor.I have a 150 reef and was planing on using two of them.One with Phosban,and the other with carbon.The next thing I will invest in is a kalk reactor.I am also wondering if a Ozone Reactor or Uv Sterilizer will be needed.I have a Co2 system that was used for hydro and I'm wanting to use it on my reef system.What will I need to convert it over?
He also gave me a Tds pen but I dont know how to use it(Sharp Tds T71).with calibration fluid.What other testers do I need?I only have a electronic Ph. The Ammonia,Nitrate,Nitrite testers are the (Shake the little pill in the bottle till your arms fall off kind).is there One tester that will do it all?My tank is a 150 with over 500 Lbs. of rock.I have a 20g wet/ dry underneath thats full of Bio-balls.I built it myself 10 years ago and seems to be working very well.It has two drip trays.Half the tank from the pre-filter and half from skimmer return.Skimmer is a Protron 48" by 3" Dia.It works very well.I purchased another 20g to build a refug. tank with live sand and algae. .Pics are coming soon.Thanks, Rick:headbang2:
 
the AquaC phosphate reactor is quite a good, modestly priced and works well...Dont see any issues with the use of two of these for the selcted media types..

Never found a need for an ozone reactor, so i have never used one and cannot comment on these...

Had a trawl through the internet and i cannot find any instructions for you on TDS T71 meter..Was nothing given to you with it instruction wise?

The tablet testers you mentioned, i personaly do not like or trust. My opinion woudl be to but the liquid test kits from manufactuers like Hagen, AP or Salifert...There is not one tester that will do them all for you i am afraid, as each test is done differently, so sperate tests for pH, Ammonis, Nitrite, Nitrate, Calcium, Alk and Mag are all you need for adquate testing of a reef system..

If the wet/dry system is working correctly for you, and your water results will confirm this, then i dont see a pressing need to change it. However, personal preference for me would be to slowl remove the bio-balls and exchange them for live rock rubble and a deep sand bed...

Hope this helps you a little Rick

Niko
 
Thanks Niko,I will take your advice and let you know how it turns out.Rick
 
I found a AquaC XP Plus for $50 and I was wondering if this is a good reactor.I have a 150 reef and was planing on using two of them.One with Phosban,and the other with carbon.
The reactor will work great! I recommend the use of Warner Marine phosAr HC and always remove the media every 30 days regardless of test results. These products remove a multitude of DOC's, metals, and other ion exchanges that we don't test for so to maximize their efficiency change every 30 days. Chemi-pure is the carbon I use.
The next thing I will invest in is a kalk reactor.
The kalk reactor again is not necessary. You can add kalkwasser to your evap water bin and get the same results. Speaking of make up water for evap make sure your source water and make up water is RO/DI water with a TDS reading of ZERO!
I am also wondering if a Ozone Reactor or Uv Sterilizer will be needed.
An ozone reactor is a good investment but you will need an ozinizer, air dryer, and ORP controller. The ozone is metered via the ORP controller to a value of 380mv to 420mv. These are very delicate systems in regards to overdosing and should be used with great care. the use of ozone will decrease algae and increase water quality and clarity. The UV can be used but for a 150g I would recommend 36w unit.It is debatable if they are useful or not.
I have a Co2 system that was used for hydro and I'm wanting to use it on my reef system.What will I need to convert it over?
CO2 is used in conjunction with calcium reactors. If you plan on your set up being SPS dominant then you should consider a calcium reactor. Otherwise the CO2 system will have no value to a reef tank.
He also gave me a Tds pen but I don't know how to use it(Sharp Tds T71).with calibration fluid.
the TDS pen is to be used with source water and make up water. Once calibrated test the water for a reading of ZERO. If TDS is higher than 2ppm then your source water will cause problems with algae/cyanobacteria, etc.
What other testers do I need?I only have a electronic Ph.
If you like electronic testers then you should keep the pH tester and also get a calcium tester. If you take alot of tests the electronic testers/probes can be an added benefit.
The Ammonia,Nitrate,Nitrite testers are the (Shake the little pill in the bottle till your arms fall off kind).is there One tester that will do it all?
Test for the following....

* SALINITY:1.024-1.026s.g. Tested with hydrometer
Salinity can be as low as 1.021s.g. for fish only tanks

* PH 8.2-8.4 tested with high range test kit

* TEMPERATURE 76F-83F The key here is to stabilize the temp at a constant number like 79F.

* AMMONIA 0ppm Tested with a saltwater hobbyist test kit

* NITRITE 0ppm Tested with a saltwater hobbyist test kit

* NITRATE 0-10ppm Tested with a saltwater hobbyist test kit

* PHOSPHATES> 0-.03ppm Tested with a saltwater hobbyist test kit. WARNING! ALGAE BLOOMS CAN OCCUR IF PHOSPHATE LEVELS EXCEED 0.02PPM This can be controlled by using a phosphate resin.

* CALCIUM 380PPM-450PPM Tested with a saltwater hobbyist test kit
WARNING: LOW CALCIUM LEVELS WILL LEAD TO STUNTED GROWTH AND SEVERE HEALTH PROBLEMS IN CORALS AND CLAMS

* ALKALINITY 2.5-4.5meg/l Tested with a saltwater hobbyist test kit. ALKALINITY is a measurement of the systems ability to buffer itself. PH, ALK, CALCIUM are all linked and balanced together. You should strive to keep all levels stable and in balance.

* MAGNESIUM 1250-1350ppm Magnesium should be tested at least once a week and adjusted properly

* STRONTIUM, IODIDE, AND IRON should be dosed weekly per manufacturers directions OVERDOSING IS COUNTERPRODUCTIVE!!! DO NOT OVERDOSE!!!

This is a lot of test. Your LFS should be able to test these for you. SUPPORT YOUR LFS!!!

My tank is a 150 with over 500 Lbs. of rock.I have a 20g wet/ dry underneath thats full of Bio-balls.I built it myself 10 years ago and seems to be working very well.It has two drip trays.Half the tank from the pre-filter and half from skimmer return.Skimmer is a Protron 48" by 3" Dia.It works very well.I purchased another 20g to build a refug. tank with live sand and algae.
I would remove the bio balls from the wet/dry the live rock will take care of the bio-load
 
Thank you for your support!!
 
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