View Full Version : Buying my first cannister
I have a 55-gallon tank with 2 large silver dollars (4"), one Texas cichlid (6"), one Synodontis cat (5") and one pimodella cat (4"). My current filtration consists of two Penguin 330s and I only use the polyester batting for filter media. I change 50% of the water every 7-10 days and I change the filter media at the same time.
The fish are doing well but I do have a problem that the water is not as clear as I would like it to be. If you look straught on, the water looks ok but if you walk by the tank from the side, the water has a green tint (algae). I was considering the purchase of a Hot Magnum 250 to improve the water clarity. Does anybody have any positive experience with the Hot Magnum filters? Or should I consider a more traditional cannister filter (Eheim, Fluval, or Filstar)? Any suggestions would be appreciated. One note, this tank sits on a wooden buffet not on a traditional wooden aquarium stand so I don't have much room under the tank to store a cannister - that is part of the reason I was considering the Hot Magnum.
Thanks!
krowland
12-08-2002, 9:21 AM
I bought my first Eheims about 3 months ago. A pair of 2028 Pro II's for 125 gallon Oscar tank. They were easy to set up, do an excellent job of filtration and are exceptionally quiet. I probably won't go with any other brand as I replace filters and/or add tanks. Check out www.bigalsonline.com for pricing. If you buy one be sure to get one with the media included. It's cheaper that way.
christopher1260
12-08-2002, 10:09 AM
i love my fluval canister filter. you can add filter floss to the media baskets to make your water crystal clear.
slipknottin
12-08-2002, 10:13 AM
if the water has a green tint, adding another filter wont clear up the problem.
the only cause of algae is high nutrients in your water, either your source water, or overfeeding, overstocking, etc.
limit the nutrients and the water will clear up. Do larger or more frequent water changes.
Despite what everyone says, light, by itself, does not cause algae blooms. high nutrient levels do. You could have 500 watts of light over your tank, and if you had low nutrient levels, you wouldnt have any algae.
wiEngineer
12-08-2002, 11:30 AM
I've had a a Filstar XP3 for about the past 6 to 8 weeks and I've been generally pretty happy with it. However, you have to keep the intake clear (i have a pre-filter sponge over it to reduce maintenance) or the outflow will exceed the inflow and you can get air in it.
For this latter reason, if you are willing to spend the money, I'd go with an Eheim 2028. If you are trying to be a little cheaper, the Filstars are good, just watch your filters.
famman
12-08-2002, 5:23 PM
I adore my eheims but they are not the best at mechanical filtration, and as slip says it is excess nutrients not filtration that is the real issue.
A Magnum 350 will micro filter, or better yet a Vortex diatom filter would temporarily clear the tank.
good luck
:)
As others have said, your problem is not filtration related but nutrient related...It sounds like you do enough water changes (50% every 7-10) so perhaps it is a tap water issue...Have you tested your tap water for phosphates?
Richer
12-09-2002, 9:51 PM
Check your ammonia and nitrite levels. I assume you put in new media everytime you change the media in your filters? If thats the case, I'm curious as to how your ammonia and nitrite levels are.
IME with plant tanks, and from what I've heard ammonia can more or less cause a tank to undergo a very nasty algae bloom, especially under high lighting. If your tank is under a constant source of light and has trace readings of ammonia, I think thats where your problem lies.
Increase the amount of biological filtration on your tank (a canister will do quite well for that). Do a black out for a few days with a heavy blanket, and that should solve your green water problems. For biological filtration, you do not want to replace the media with new stuff once a week. Leave the media where it is, put a prefilter on the intake of the canister to prolong the life of the biomedia.
IME, fluvals and eheims are pretty good canisters. I own two fluval 404s, and one Eheim 2026. I'm currently considering an Eheim ECCO (unsure of size atm). I haven't heard much of the ECCO, so that decision is still pending.
HTH
-Richer
125gJoe
12-10-2002, 6:41 AM
Originally posted by wiEngineer
..... or the outflow will exceed the inflow and you can get air in it.
Ok.. I am really lost here. How can you get air in a canister filter? Seems to me there must be a leak in your hoses, or the top of the canister is not sealed properly.
Wolfy
12-10-2002, 10:20 AM
Thanks for all of the great advice. One of my main considerations is cost since I am on a tight budget. I want to make sure that I make the right choice with this purchase. I am also going to be careful about the amount of food that I put in the tank. With big fish it is hard at times because you would assume that their appetites would also increase as their size increases.
DIYMatt
12-10-2002, 11:12 AM
I agree with the above posters that your green water problem is a nutrient issue, not filtration. Try only changing half of the floss each timne until you get a new filter. This way you won't wipe out all your bacteria each time. For your new filter, if budget is a concern, I wouldn't go with the Eheim's. They're spendy. I personally stand behind the Filstars. I have three now and I love them. I don't know how you would get air into one either. I think he must have a leak in a hose, and air will get into any brand filter that way. You can put any media in the filstars and they are very easy, versatile and cheaper than the Eheims. I would not get a Fluval, they're complicated and I hate that stupid tubing they come with. Its cheap and too bright of a grey for me. Also, a similar size fluval holds much less media than a Filstar. I wouldn't go with the Magnum or Vortex diatom either. They have such a fine filter that they will clog in no time and they don't provide any biofiltration. A UV sterilizer would do a better job at the same thing. All that being said, I have crystal clear tanks with just AquaClears with foam on them. So, the nutrients are the issue. If they aren't coming from your source water, biofiltration is the answer. So, IMO I would go with two aquaclears with just foam blocks or a Filstar canister with foam and bio media. You can then put floss on the top of the filstar for more mechanical filtration. BTW, my fluval clogs very fast with floss in the top tray, its so small.
Wolfy
12-10-2002, 12:12 PM
DIYMatt,
Thanks for your input. What do you mean by foam blocks? Are you referring to the standard Aquaclear sponges or some alternative? Do you think I should switch to foam blocks in my Penguin 330s?
All of posts that I have read have been positive on the Filstar filters.
125gJoe
12-10-2002, 3:03 PM
Originally posted by Wolfy
All of posts that I have read have been positive on the Filstar filters.
http://www.rena.net/us/rena_filtres_xp.html
wiEngineer
12-10-2002, 10:14 PM
80g:
Regarding getting air in my Filstar. I have a pre-filter sponge over the intake. I've found that if it gets clogged, I start to get air in the filter.
As near as I can tell, there is a certain amount of suction within the canister. That suction is exceeding the flow rate so some air is leaking in around the cover or something similiar. Everything is fine if the sponge is cleaned. Water flow doesn't really seem very affected.
I've tried posting to the Rena filter forums on the rena corporate website and got no answer at all from them either in email or on the board.
It's possible I have a bum canister, but getting anything out of Rena to that seems impossible. All things being equal, I probably would have been happier with an Eheim 2028.:(
125gJoe
12-11-2002, 6:54 AM
Originally posted by wiEngineer
80g:
That suction is exceeding the flow rate so some air is leaking in around the cover or something similiar. It's possible I have a bum canister, ....
Have you tried re-sealing the filter? Filstars are adjustable. (The XP-3 is..)
The issue of air in the output when the intake is starved (clogged) is cavitation. When you starve the intake, the impeller or turbine will knock disolved gases out of the water, generating bubbles. Not at all a desirable situation. No leak is required.
Tightdog1
12-11-2002, 9:36 PM
ehiem is best but expensive, fluval is good also but not as expensive, i use a flival 304 on my 55g but i have a biowheel pro 60 inline with the fluval output.
125gJoe
12-12-2002, 5:26 AM
Originally posted by RTR
knock disolved gases out of the water, generating bubbles. Not at all a desirable situation. No leak is required.
Hmmm...
Hmmm ?
DIYMatt
12-13-2002, 12:47 PM
Originally posted by Wolfy
DIYMatt,
Thanks for your input. What do you mean by foam blocks? Are you referring to the standard Aquaclear sponges or some alternative? Do you think I should switch to foam blocks in my Penguin 330s?
Sorry it took so long to get back to you on this. By foam blocks, I mean the standard Aquaclear sponges. In the filter itself and I would use the coarser one over the intake as well. This set up has worked well for me.
As far as the Penguin goes, I have no experience with one. But if it will accept foam blocks, I would use them. Or use half foam and half filter floss. That way you would get finer mechanical filtration and good bio filtration.