How to cool a hot tank?

[SamsonNY]

My heater is set to 78 (and of course, not turning on) since the tank is running about 85!! :eek:

I'm guessing the added pump (which sits inside the sump versus the Iwaki which is outside) of the skimmer along with some more lights (270 W now versus 180 W before; but the temp is higher all day even before the lights turn on) along with the current heat wave (room temp is about 75) are all factors. Before the switchover to s/w (before the skimmer, extra lights, and also, this current heat wave), the heater would sometimes turn on to keep the tank at 80.

So, some ideas I've read and will try:
-fan pointed at water inside sump (too inconvenient to have a fan shooting air at the water in the tank due to the set-up)
-frozen closed water bottles (I'll try them in sump first)


Note: The BACK of the tank gets "somewhat" direct sunlight in the morning hours from a window directly behind the tank. That's about it.

Any other possible ideas?
Thanks.
Richard.

[BrianH]

Richard,

Is this the 400gal tank? I wonder because your 270w of lighting plus a couple of pumps should not heat your tank up that much in a room that is kept at 75F. Try closing the shade on the window that gives the tank sunlight in the morning(this will also help w/unwanted algae growth), and add a fan to your sump(as you suggested). Does your tank have a canopy? If so, you can also add computer fans to move out the hot air created by your lights.
Try all of these methods along with getting another thermometer to make sure the current one is working, and make sure your heater is working properly, before exploring more expensive alternatives.

Brian

[SamsonNY]

Thanks Brian! :)


Yes, it's the 400 gallon.
It's an acrylic tank (Tenecor) which has the standard 3 square large openings (which I have acrlyic sheets covering them) and all of my lights sit on top. Then, there is the large (3 section) white acrylic canopy that covers the top (for looks only). And, the little slots along the back which I also have acylic sheets covering with velcro to hold them secure (I used to have a fire eel and he was an escape artist so I had to seal every opening; not airtight, just eel proof :p ).


Unfortunately, no shades on the windows on the backside of the house. I just had new windows installed and decided not to put shades or blinds on the backside. Woods and fence are my privacy. But, if this matters; the back of the tank is ocean blue acrylic. Sunlight does not come thru very well; although you can see a shadow if someone walks behind the tank in the morning.

Each section of the canopy has a large circular hole cut in the top to allow heat to escape. I guess I could "also" add fans there to "pull" hot air out. But, the temp stays warm without the lights, I don't know why.

Heater is a 1000 W ProHeat Digital Titanium. Glass tube heater and sticker (I know, not the most reliable) all confirm the same temps. Glass tube and heater probe are in the sump, sticker is on the canister. But, just to sure, I'll check with another therm. as well.

I'll try the fan idea tonight and see if that helps and keep the frozen waters bottles as emergency plans too.

Thanks again.

Richard.

[kreblak]

ACE (the bandage people) make a gel insert for their bandages that can be frozen solid and placed over wounds to keep swelling down. The gel holds its temperature much longer than ice does. This might be an excellent alternative to frozen water bottles. It comes in a plastic pouch that is pretty durable, so you shouldn't have to worry about leaks or anything like that. As I recall the gelpacks cost about $15 and are available at any pharmacy.

[Toro Driver]

Just a thought, that blue background may be drawing heat from the morning sun. The darker the material, the more heat it will draw.

[SamsonNY]

Thanks for the suggestions, guys! :)

Unfortunately, nothing really helped very much.

So, I have a big wall-unit A.C. behind the tank and I pointed one of the vents right at the tank (inbetween the canopy and the tank). It has brought the temp down to 78-81.
BUT, the **** den is now freezing. :rolleyes:

**** fish. :p


I also realized that my prior f/w set-up (with the stingrays):
the tank was always cooler because I had a constant cold-water (tapwater) line being dripped into the sump (50 gpd) as part of the constant water changer system. So, the additional lights and the protein skimmer is probably not the reason why the tank is warmer. It was probably always running warmer and I just didn't realize it.

[JSG]

If you have a few dollars, and the room, head to walmart and get a little dorm fridge. Basically, I am sure you can figure it out, run a input line into the fridge, that run thru a coil set up in a 3 to 5 gallon bucket of water, then back to the tank. Works very well as a chiller, and can be done uner$100 bucks, if you have to buy the fridge.

[SamsonNY]

Thanks JSG,

I've read about this idea (King Vinnie's board) as well as thought of similar ideas.

The problem comes down to space. 2/3's of the cabinet is full of the filtration. The right 1/3 could be used, but the opening is the problem.

Having the fridge outside of the cabinet is not good since the tank and cabinet take up an entire wall in my den and I don't want a small frig. sitting on the floor next to it. ;)

Here's a shot of the tank in my den (when it was first set-up with the f/w rays and dragons in it) to get an idea of the space I have left:

Tank (http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-4/36280/QHIMAEPESHDCMJWJVKVN-April%208%20D.jpg)

[JSG]

Whats on the other side of that wall? Sometimes you have to get creative :D

[SamsonNY]

Unfortunately, the backyard. :confused:

But, keep the ideas coming, bud..

I shut off the a.c. last night and the tank was 79. This morning it was 86! :mad:

Turned the a.c. back on but, the **** den is an iceberg.


I looked up chillers. But, ****: a unit for a 400 gallon is in the $1,000 price range. :eek: Way too much!

[JSG]

Well, here is a thought I have put some time into. you said you have an AC, run a coil in the output of the ac unit, small pump pushing water......may be a decent option. Should be pretty simple to build.

Or, a small heater core, with a fan attached to it, that way you could keep in under the stand. <<< That may work surprisingly well.

[caffeine]

JSG is on to something. Not sure how much you guys know about water-cooling computers, but it's basically what JSG said.

Find a radiator or heater core. If you don't want to mess with an auto parts store or junk yard or anything, check out some online water-cooling retailers like http://www.dangerden.com/mall/Radiators/radiators.asp

Attach fans to the radiator to speed up the cooling process. Regular DC computer fans will work well, get a 12V AC-DC wall brick from radioshack or wal-mart, slice off the connector on the end, and connect the wires from the fans to this to power them.

Now just throw a water pump in your sump, flowing water through the radiator which will cool it down to room temperature, and back into the sump. No evaporation, low noise, and it should only cost you $50-150 depending on parts.



Is this a new idea to the aquarium world, or has it been used before? I could write a much more detailed how-to if anyone wants.

[cloran]

Hey, I was reading what you had to say about the heater coil, I have to replace mine in my s-10. I priced them at Autozone, their $25 with a lifetime warrenty.
Hope that helps

[SamsonNY]

Thanks for all of the follow-up suggestions, guys!

But, I bit the bullet and bought a chiller from Premium Aquatics (Pacific Imports 1/2 hp). It's doing a great job and keeping the tank between 77 and 81 regardless of how hot the room gets(the only downside is a 4 degree F spread, but that's okay).

An FYI for those thinking about a chiller: I originally put it behind the stand BUT, it can be a bit loud and it generates quite a bit of it's own heat. So, I moved it into the garage and ran the lines into there.

[storrsms]

the radiator idea sounds good, but will the SW be compatible with it and not leach anything into the tank that will wipe out the system? If they make plastic radiators or other non-metal I would feel much safer with this than losing the livestock and your investment in this great "hobby"

Mark

[Timmain42]

Okay I read that whole thing, but maybe it's just me... did I read somewhere that Samson had taken the three acrylic tops off the tank? I realize the lights would have to be protected from the water, but evap. seems like that would have been the easiest and most affordable way to fix the heat problem.

But then you'd have to find a dehumidifier with a decent capacity.

Or perhaps I missed something. It has been a very long day...

[SamsonNY]

Forget humidity issues, evaporation issues, looks issues (plus, those canopies are HEAVY), etc.

The main reason why I couldn't remove the acrylic tops = Moray Eel! ;)