Starting a new tank - advice needed

I grow java fern in a small 5 gallon tank with only a bubble filter and no ferts. The light levels are 2 watts per gallon which is higgh for that tank. If you want low maintenance then you will probably not want high light plants and CO2 as this will tend to create fast growing plants and possible algae problems if not controlled properly. The plants you mentioned will grow fine with a lower light level (2 40 watt bulbs would be fine) and the occasional dosing of ferts, say once a week with a water change.

I am definatly not a plant expert but the simple regieme with simple plants has worked well in my tanks.

I agree with TKOS. If you want a low-maintenance tank, use two tubes instead of four. It will make things a lot easier since things will run slower.

Graeme

Let's start with the lighting because there is a large difference between 2 tubes(80watts) and 4 tubes(160 watts).
Keep in mind that CO2 will enhance the growth of any planted tank regardless of watts/gal.
With 2 tubes you can grow the plants you mention as well as Cryptocoryne and some Swords without CO2. I have a 55 with 80 watts(w/CO2) and it's the most rewarding tank I have.....and the easiest.
With 4 tubes you can grow more plants and they'll grow faster and more full, but with 3 watts+/gal. I would then say that CO2 becomes more necessary. More wattage....more of a need to get the plants growing faster. Also at that wattage I would start it up with stems and fast growers to try to avoid the initial burst of algae that is almost inevitable in an unseasoned tank with 3 watts/gal. You can still grow the types you want to have over the long haul, but they are not what I call nutrient hogs and won't compete for nutrients like stems will. The stems can then be phased out later when the others are established.
Maybe, down the road, after the tank is well established you can cut out the CO2 and let it go on it's own, but for a start up I would go with it at 3watts/gal.
BTW, I use 6700K 'daylight' fluorescents from Lowes and my plants grow well under them.
When considering balance, you have to include nutrients into the mix. More light, with or without CO2, more ferts. You will have to find that balance. But all you want to do is get them growing well without over-doing it on the ferts.
The plants won't need any ferts for a week or so as they will have much of what they need stored. Then start slow. I would go slower than your estimates. The K and Traces sound good after your weekly 50%er.
Test for N and P before adding any or either and add only when below 5ppm N and 0.5 P. Watch your plants and see how they respond. I would leave the Fe out of the mix until/unless you see a need for it. It is included in most Trace mixes and too much of it will cause algae issues.
I would go with a bit finer gravel, because you never know when you might change your mind and want to add some Rosette type plants. Once it's in there are you going to want to tear it all up and change gravel? Some people sprinkle a thin layer of peat moss on the bottom of the tank before adding substrate. This can be of significant help in establishing the tank sooner.
One last thing.......I would suggest that you strongly consider 3 -5 Otos at the very beginning, especially if you elect to go with the 4 tube set-up.
I'm sure you will get other opinions. This one just happened to be mine.

Len

A couple of things...

First, I'd like to comment on what a well thought out, organized post this is. This is a great example of how a question should be asked.

The only thing I don't like about my tank (36"x24"x12") is it's width. 12" wide does not give me much room to create an aquascape. The tank was a gift to me so I can't complain, but my next tank will be 18"-24" wide.

Hope that helps

The main thing when looking for rocks is to make sure they go with your setup. If you are planning on keeping S African Cichlids then rocks with carbonates are great as they help keep the pH high. But othwise you should be looking for rocks that do not contain much carbonate. A simple test that works is to place the rock in a acid solution (vinegar usually works well) and see if there is any fuzzing. If not then you should be good.

I think you want to add the plants after the cycle is complete as the plants will slow it down as they use the ammonia and nitrites.

I think the biggest bit of advice that I could give is to GO SLOW. You are making a great start by asking questions to help prevent mistakes. I just set up my 150 about 2 months ago and had nothing but problems from the get go. I bought my plants, planted them in the tank, put a mess load of fish in there, and then fertilized immediately. Bad choices. The plants that you want are very low maintanence and are low nutrient absorbers for the most part. Consider this when you fertilize. Also, I wouldn't recommend liquid ferts until your plants take hold and start growing. You have to remember that if your plants aren't established/growing, then the ferts you add are just going to stay in the water column. The unused ferts are going to be feasted upon by algae. Especially if you have high light. This is what happened to me. I have taken a huge step back and have geared down quite a bit. I cut out my CO2 and fertilize a lot less. I did this because I have a CO2 gas off problem anyway. I have done this for about a week and I'm seeing positive and negative results. Positive results are that I have no algae so far and the fish are doing great. Negatives, some plants aren't responding too well. It's mainly my swords...but I also uprooted them and moved them around so I think they'll come around. I like the idea of slow growth...it equates to much less work. With the set up you're suggesting, with those plants, I think you will find it to be very rewarding and beautiful. And very importantly, easily maintained. Welcome to the planted world. This forum is great and will be a fantastic resource when you have questions.

Where did that come from?