Shoplights or Electronic Ballast

[Captain Hook]

I am going to be building a cover out of wood for my 20 gallon and am trying to figure out what I should do for lights. How hot do shoplights run? I could buy a 24" shoplight (2 bulbs) for $30, which is half the price of a nice electronic ballast I found for sale.

GLO-MAT 2 ELECTRONIC BALLAST KIT-20 WATT (http://www.bigalsonline.com/cgi-bin/search.cgi?inUID=1064208819.1064208819&inCatID=15:Lighting&inSub=50)

The ballast I was thinking about is third from the bottom but double the price of shoplights. What do you guys think I have been contemplating this for a while and still not sure what to do.

[Dabbler II]

I had 2 sets of glo mats on my 120gal (now I have gone to cf lighting) They are nice to work with, very well layed out, easy to set up and it keeps your hood clean looking. I have nothing bad to say about them. They do cost more than a "shop light" but if you don't mind a few extra bucks and you are into a "neat" looking hood than that is the way to go.:D

http://www3.telus.net/public/dabbler/Picture_0322crop.jpg

[Captain Hook]

Wow that does look very clean. What else does a glo-mat come with other than the endcaps? Is there something that I will have to mount on the outside of the hood or anything? I doubt that those ends go straight to a cord in the wall.

[DIYMatt]

From what I have seen, the glomat cord goes from the endcaps to a prewired ballast that is inline on the cord and that goes right to the wall. They seem like a very simple and effective solution that seem to be well made. But, you would still want to fashion a reflector for those bulbs so you aren't wasting light. So, for that kind of money you could get into a Compact Flourescent lighting setup from AHSupply. Most people would agree that CF is superior lighting to NO flourescent for plant growth.

Now, the shoplight would be simple to install if you left it intact and intstalled it in the hood. But, you would have still have Normal Output flourescent lighting. Also, the cases on the shopilghts might rust over time above a tank and the endcaps will probably need to be replaced due to corrosion. Last, you will have to make a taller hood to accomodate the shoplight. I have used shoplights with some success, but I still think Compact Flourescent lighting would be the way to go long term, IMO. Lighting is something that I try not to skimp on. Check here for some CF setups:

http://www.ahsupply.com/36-55w.htm

BTW: how do you rename the links you put in posts?

[Dwarfnut]

I have been using the shoplight setups for a while and I can tell you that they do get quite a bit hotter than the electronic ballasts! If you are building a pretty closed-in hood, then I would not mount the shoplight ballasts inside the hood, but rather maybe on the back. If you provide good air flow with fans or such, then probably not too much of a problem. I have switched several tanks over to electronic ballasts (Workhorse ballasts) and have been pleased. They do not heat up as much and seem to provide more power/brighter light than the regular magnetic ballasts, plus they are smaller in size! I usually buy the workhorse 3 ballasts locally for about $28 each. I already have a bunch of endcaps for T-8s.

Good luck,
Bill C.

[Captain Hook]

Hmm, thanks for the all solid advice guys you have created a bunch of questions for me. I went to Home Depot yesterday and saw their shoplights for 2 footers that hold 2 bulbs. They were T12s, which I think will limit me to some of the bulbs at Home Depot, like the Daylight Deluxe (6500K). Anyone use these bulbs or anything similar, like cheap ($4) fluorescents? If I decide to go this route I will be saving a lot of money over the glo-mat with fish store bulbs (T8s I think for 24" right?).

I am planning on building the cover about 10" high so space will not be an issue but I am worried about heat. These cheap shoplights create quite a bit of heat? The cover was going to be fully enclosed pretty much so all that heat will be going into the water of the tank which isn't good.

[Dabbler II]

Don't forget if you order from AH Supply you need to add your pst and gst and dutie taxes. There is a place called Brite Lights and they are here in Canada It is a little more DIY than a kit from AH but I think they even have a store in Toronto.Brite-Lite (http://www.brite-lite.com/CdnShop/Publish/vindex.htm)
They carry the PLL55W at 6400K for $16 Where as they are $55 in the LFS they also carry the workhorse Balasts. I have ordered from them before and I got great service from them. ( I think if I remember the workhorse 5 was $40 the 2 bulbs were $30 2 sockets $6 and 2 clips $2. so Around $78 to $ 85 (CDN) including taxes not bad for 110 watts of cf lighting.

[MrGoodbytes]

That Brite-Lite place has some good deals. I couldn't find the ballasts for CF bulbs and the sockets though. Did you buy these at a local store?

Thanks again for pointing this site out,

Graeme

[Dabbler II]

You have to call them they do carry them . I got everything from brite lite

[MrGoodbytes]

Excellent.
Thanks for the answer.

Graeme

[Dwarfnut]

Captain,
LOL, I actually did exactly what you are talking about and it worked out fine, but I did make a few changes!! First, this is on my 75 gallon with a custom hood, so I had more space to work with and it sounds like you will also. Instead of buying the shoplights, go to the HD lighting section and just look at the bare ballasts. You can pick up a ballast that will power the 2 T-12's for like $12 ea. Then, get a pack of the ends for like $1.50 ea and your in business!! These ballasts are better than the magnetic ones, but still get pretty hot. I ended up mounting mine on the back side of the hood on the outside so they get plenty or air. Then I just bought some of the ultra-daylight bulbs (yes, the 2 for $4 kind!) and it has worked great! one trick that I recently found out about was that even with the 6500K bulbs, if you throw in one or two real actinic bulbs, it makes it look even 'cooler'! I love the look! So for my 75 gallon to make a hood that will have 6 4' T-12 (or T-10 if I can find them!), the total cost was under $75 and that's because I added some individual switches onto each pair!

Good luck,
Bill C.