I was reading posts about putting peat in your filters to keep a lower and stable ph.If I got some for my dual 404's how long would it last. I know the amount would have to be tested for my particular 125. I only am thinking about this because I read in the posts that cichlid eggs (sa) will not hatch in a high ph.
I know I said I would leave the ph alone...
- Thread starter PooCooper
- Start date
I think the peat would be effective for as long as you leave it in the filters. Are you talking about American cichlid eggs?
yes, Some of you seen a n earlier post of mine where I said my ph was off the charts. On a dipstick test that goes up to 8.4 my ph looked like it was a ten.
I've had mixed results with the peat and using the carbon with the filter. The carbon will remove the "tea" colored appearance the peat will give the water, but with my experience it also dilutes the peat's effectivness. It should last a while, but eventually your going to have to replace the peat.
Slow down and back up a bit. "Soft-water" fish may well have difficulty breeding in hard water, this is true. BUT, it ain't just the pH. It is the mineral content, primarily the Ca++ and Mg++, secondarily the carbonates/bicarbonates. The pH of source water is a hint of the mineralization, it is a symptom, not a cause. Folks get all exercised over pH and run down some good blind alleys.
First get GH and KH tests kits, and a TDS reading if you can. Then you figure out what is really going on with your water and how to handle it to breed your target species. For high GH/KH/TDS water, it takes massive amounts of peat to effectively soften the water.
First get GH and KH tests kits, and a TDS reading if you can. Then you figure out what is really going on with your water and how to handle it to breed your target species. For high GH/KH/TDS water, it takes massive amounts of peat to effectively soften the water.
RTR is correct, it's not all about the pH. The hardness oft times has more to do with it than pH.
Secondly, if your water is exteremy hard and well buffered (which is likely with a very high pH) a bit 'O peat aint gonna' do squat! When RTR says it will take massive amounts of peat he ain't kidding. My water is also very hard and alkaline and I have tried the peat method. The only thing you'll end up with is water that is hard and alkaline AND too dark to see through... A whole bale of peat was not enough to soften just 40 gallons of my water. The water was so dark I couldn't see the fish.
The only sure fire method of rectifying your water would be to treat it with an RO and/or DI unit and then buffer the water to the desired pH. Adding chemicals or acids to your existing water will not achieve the desired effect.
To add, WHAT FISH ARE YOU CONCERNED ABOUT!! Not all SA cichlid species come from soft, acidic waters. CA cichlids rarely inhabit soft, acidic waters.
Secondly, if your water is exteremy hard and well buffered (which is likely with a very high pH) a bit 'O peat aint gonna' do squat! When RTR says it will take massive amounts of peat he ain't kidding. My water is also very hard and alkaline and I have tried the peat method. The only thing you'll end up with is water that is hard and alkaline AND too dark to see through... A whole bale of peat was not enough to soften just 40 gallons of my water. The water was so dark I couldn't see the fish.
The only sure fire method of rectifying your water would be to treat it with an RO and/or DI unit and then buffer the water to the desired pH. Adding chemicals or acids to your existing water will not achieve the desired effect.
To add, WHAT FISH ARE YOU CONCERNED ABOUT!! Not all SA cichlid species come from soft, acidic waters. CA cichlids rarely inhabit soft, acidic waters.
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marcus, i have really hard water with a high pH. I have a well water so could you send me some info or links on ROs and other methods of softing. I have tried chemicals but they dont work uless i put amounts in that due more harm to the fish than if i just left them in hard water.