Problems with algae

R

ruben

AC Members
Feb 4, 2004
19
0
0
61
Guadalajara, Jal.Mexico
Visit site
I have a 60 gal tank, kh 6, pH 7, diy Co2, tap water no3 = 5 - 10 ppm. Daily fertilizer includes iron, MgSO4, and KCl, to suggested levels, daily 1,5 gal water change, light is provided by 6 t8's (3100, 5000 and 6500 K philips tubes 2 each temp) plants (Anubias, Swords, Aponogeton, Vallisnerias, Sagitarias, around 40 total) grow well, pearling present, but a cronic problem with algae growing in the plants mainly (Dark algae deep brown to black) I've tried PMDD for 4 months, just started 2 weeks ago with 0.5 PO4 with no improvement, fish load is 4 angels, 2 clown loaches, 10 danios, 2 corys, 1 pleco, 3 algae eaters,
Any ideas?
 
!Ojo!
DIY CO2, this is the most common issue for algae problems, try for a pH of 6.7-6.9 for the daylight period.

You'll need to trim off the algae that's there, bleach dip perhaps on the tougher leaves.

Try doing this routine:

Add K+, Mg after water change only.
Do 50% -60% weekly water change.
Dose afterwards.

Add traces 3 x a week(15mls of trace liquid)
KNO3, add 1/2 teaspoon 2x a week, more(3x a week) if plant growth is good.

Buy SAE's if you can fine them there. Other wise trim, add some faster growing plants etc to outpace the algae.

These are 32 W lights? So 6 x 32 w?
Sounds like too much light, 4 should be enough and put less demand on the dosing a dnutrient routine, but the above routine should get you very close to the target growth.

Regards and Viva Zapata,

Tom Barr
 
thanks for the reply, so the CO2 is the source of the problem ? should I try an automatic system ? Will this help with the algae or should I do something with the DIY CO2 ?. Which tubes should I eliminate (K), last weekend I armed myself with a toothbrush and eliminated about 95% of the algae, plants look much better and pearling improved a little, also discovered that my SAE are really Chinese, they are not that agressive and they eat algae (any way I have an arowana in another tank that loves them), anyway today I plan to visit some LFS looking for the real SAE.
I haven't been able to locate plantex in Mexico, but sustitutes seem to work OK
 
Don't know what you mean by and 'automatic' system, but pressurized instead of DIY will make a big difference. With it you can regulate your pH, and it will help if you can get it down to 6.8.
I would use the 6500Ks and eliminate the ones farthest away(in kelvin rating) from them.
You want the PO4 to be in the 1.0 range.

Len
 
photoperiod

You might be leaving the lights on too long as well. Once the plants are done for the day, the algae comes out to play.

I figure this out by watching my L. Repens and H. Difformis. Both of them will fold their top leaves together when they go to sleep. Watch the plants one evening and if they fold up before dark, adjust the timer to turn off at that time.

Also, looking at your plant list, they are all root feeders. This may allow the nutrients in the water column to be higher. Consider adding some stem plants or floaters to sponge this up. You could add some hornwort (my favorite), riccia, hydrocoytle, ect. Using floaters you get the benifit of a plant close to the light that soaks up the nutrients fast, and the light below is reduced a bit, which discourages algae. Then you don't have to remove bulbs. You can fine tune how much light gets to the plants below by how much floating plants you leave each week.

I don't think theres a big difference in 5, 10% water changes or 1 50% water change, but it's certainly easier to do just one large one. I do a 30% every 5-10 days. I don't like to go bigger as the driftwood may tip and filters lose their syphon.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
AquariaCentral.com
Top Bottom