Converting 20g freshwater to FOWLR - please help?

fishlvr

still doesn't have a clue...
Mar 29, 2004
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Tulsa, Oklahoma
www.abstractsync.com
I've decided I want to do this :D

Tomorrow I'm going to transfer my 13 neons out of the 20g and into the 55g. All the gravel and decorations are coming out. The filter I'll put in the 55g to keep bacteria going (will this be ok?). Now for the questions...

  • What should I do to clean and prepare the tank for saltwater?
  • I want to go live sand, but is one bag enough for a 20g? should I also get the playsand to mix with it or put under?
  • I believe I've read that I should hold off on the live rock til after the cycling is complete, is this correct?
  • Do I need powerheads running during the cycle period? What size will I need for a 20g? One powerhead or two?
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    I would like to get this entire process started tomorrow if possible. So, everything I need to know to get started is much appreciated.

    To be continued....
 
I'm cleaning a 55 next week

a) I'll be using a credit card to scrape off as much old algae as possible, and a hose in the back garden. I'll likely use a little of bleach, then lots of tap water.
b)No idea. I'll put in oolitic aragonite that's dead and let bacteria from the live rock move in.
c)Depends on where your live rock is coming from. I will probably get mine partially from an old tank, and partially from a local lfs, where it will be cured , so putting it in to a stable tank will 'instacycle' it.
If you're buying live sand, and putting live rock in that's cured you shouldn't need to cycle. If your liverock is going to turn up in a horrible state, the process of curing is effectively cycling.
Don't get caught up thinking about a freshwater cycle for saltwater. You're buying your filter bacteria in on the live rock and sand. You need to think about what to do to ensure maximum survival of other life forms on the live rock.
d) Yes. More circulation the better, and skiming too if you have it. Get too pumps pointing at each other or crossing in the centre of the tank for turbulence.

Good luck , have fun, go slowly. If you wait 2 months plus to add fish your life will beso much easier as the tank will have stabilised by then.
 
Thanks for your answers, wayne. A few more questions that have come up....

If I get uncured rock it will need to be cycled, right? Isn't uncured cheaper? I don't mind waiting the 1-2 months to cycle it. It will give me more time to learn and research.

Is 50% aragonite and 50% live sand ok to use? or will I need mroe live sand? Again, I am planning on only a few fish and maybe a couple shrimp or snails. I plan on using my HOB filter as well for mechanical filtration.

The powerheads, for a 20g tank will 2 Maxi Jet 400s be enough? or should I go a little stronger like the 600s? Or even more with the 1200s? Again, its only a 20g tank ;)

Now, about a skimmer. I've been reading about these. For my tank, could I have a healthy running tank without one?

Thanks again :D
 
Uncured often is cheaper--but it will mean you want to do water changes during the cycle, so the ammonia spike won't kill off much of the hitch hikers you get. Works fine, and will result in a good bacteria colony.

You don't have to buy live sand at all--and if you're talking about the pre-bagged stuff that sits on the shelf, I'm pretty cynical about the 'live' part--you'd be better off using all play sand and letting the live rock colonize the sand (which does work, I've done it several times--better live rock = better sand).

2 MJ400's should be fine. I have one AC200 in my 10, and combined with the return flow from my sump, is almost too much.

In small, lightly stocked systems, more frequent water changes can replace a skimmer. I do about a 2 gallon change on my setup (about 20 gallons total water), and haven't had any water quality problems as all.

For cleaning--soaking with hot water and oxyclean is my all time favorite method. Rinses clean, no bleach smell, breaks down algae (even the hardest stuff).
 
If I just get regular play sand, then cured live rock would probably be the better way to go? if so, is there a cycle period I need to wait through?

I'd like to order the MJ400's online, which could take atleast a week to receive. What can/should I do in the meantime to get the tank ready? I'm gonna bet that the sand will need to settle before turning on powerheads or filter, right?

Sorry for so many questions, as this is my first SW, I'd like to get it right ;) Thanks again.
 
Cured or uncured--won't matter, you'll want to let it settle a bit before adding live stock with cured rock, and with uncured, well, I'm in favor of the increased life you get.

You can get everything in there now--but keep in mind that moving water drops particulate faster than still water (think slow river vrs fast rivers--which are clearer?). So, while some settling will occur without the powerheads, it won't be much, and you'll kick up some stuff when you add them, anyway. Patience is a virtue in other hobbies, but a requisite for success in this one, so don't worry about the delay.
 
Ok, here goes...

I'm gonna layout my plans, tell me if this will work. :D

20lbs of the playsand everyone is talking about. (I'll verify before buying)
Live rock - not sure how much of this I'll be able to buy at the beginning, but will add some as I go.
2 - MJ400's for circulation
Hagen Tronic 100w heater
HOB filter for mechanical filtration

After all of this is setup, am I ready for a cleaner crew or even fish? Or will this need to set for a while?
 
Try to buy all, or at least a lot of rock at the start. You can always add more, but the effect of adding more than 1 or 2 pounds at a time to a small tank like a 20 will be pretty catastrophic unless you can get it totally cured within say a 20 minute drive from your home. Otherwise dieoff will pollute your tank.
When all this is done and stabilised at ammonia zero et al, you can theoretically add fish. However I woulw wait some more, because there's still a lot going on. In the first 6 weeks you should expect to see diatoms (brown algae) appear then disappear, then maybe bits of green and brown before purple coralline starts to appear. These algae problems tend to be trivial if you don't have fish in the tank. If you wait till ammonia is at zero in week 2 or 3 or whatever, and then stick in a bunch of damsels I can guarantee these problems will be much bigger.
Newbies crossing from freshwater always have hangups about, and only think about the nitrogen cycle. This is also important in salt, but it's not the only cycle going on.
So I would wait 6 to 8 weeks while the tank sorts itself out. If you want something to look at get some blue leg hermits, or a cleaner shrimp.
 
I've been doing a lot of thinking and reading (here and at Reef Central) and I think I'm gonna change the entire setup. It will take me a little longer to get all the equipment, but I think it will be worth it.

I'm still gonna use the 20g tank, but I'm gonna try a sump (10g big enough?) and skimmer (can someone please suggest a VERY affordable skimmer for my size tank?). After I rework my ideas I'll come back and see what everyone thinks.

Thank you so much for your input. :D
 
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I'm still gonna use the 20g tank, but I'm gonna try a sump (10g big enough?) and skimmer

Great idea with the sump. If I were you, I'd get the biggest sump you can possibly fit, even if it means custom-bulding one in an odd shape to fit wherever. a 10 gallon tank with a 100gal sump would be great, because you get the great stable temps and other water parameters, and you save a lot of money. It's a lot cheaper to put 50-80 watts on a 10 gallon than 500-800 watts on a 100 gallon. etc, etc, etc. That way, you can jam-pack your 20gal display tank with life, tons of corals, inverts, maybe 1 more fish than usual( provided they'll all be happy and get along in the limited physical space) and your water parameters will be rock solid. 10 gallons IS big enough, but I'd go as big as you possibly can.

[EDIT] Oops, I forgot, sorry, I don't know anything about skimmers.
 
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