High Ammonia - Everything dying...except one?

renman

AC Members
Aug 1, 2004
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Georgetown, TX
www.bigwillys.com
Hi Folks,

New to the forum and loving this hobby even though I've lost just about everything.

Most of my fish; Grammas, Clowns, Damsels, Cardinals.... live for about 2-3 weeks, eating well and all. I also have 2 scarlet crabs and 2 hermit crabs in a 55 gal tank with a wet/dry filter and about 6 lbs of live rock and a bunch of "hole filled limestone" from the area that locals have said is ideal, even for salt water tanks. Problem is, after about 2- 3 weeks the fish started dying off. I found that most had a white film on them and was told to treat the water with "Maracyn". This seemed to clear the problem. In fact, one of the original "Blue Damsels" that I had purchased has gone through this entire ordeal, unscathed? The pH is right on, no Nitrites, Nitrates, but Ammonia is at 0.8 !!!! I've done about a 30% water change and the salinity is 1.023. The pH dropped to 0.4 but a week later it's at 0.8 again??? I have had for the past week about 2 lbs of charcol as a filter in the pump area of the wet/dry to try and filter some of the harmful ammonia out, to no avail. I only have 4 Damsels in the tank currently with the 4 crabs. Feeding once daily only what they can get before it hits bottom.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated...$180 in fish later.....

Dave
 
Rule #1... Cure the tank with either live rock (at least 1/2 lb per gallon for curing is ideal, IMO), or use deli shrimp (or pure ammonia) and let it cycle until everything falls to zero. This gives you a much larger population of bacteria for breaking down the ammonia your fish produce, which gives wiggle room as you figure stuff out. If you use fish to cycle, you torture some fish and only get enough bacteria for those exact fish. Cycling with fish kills or makes sick all but the toughest fish. (You've already got damsels in there, so you may need to tough it out or move them to a quarantine tank while you do a full cycle.)

Rule #2: Add no more than two fish per month. This is because it takes a little while for the bacteria colonies to adjust to the additional ammonia from new fish. If you add fish too fast, you cycle your tank again. Remember the part about this killing fish?

Rule #3: If at all possible quarantine your fish for at least four weeks before adding them to your main tank. This way, one sick fish doesn't kill the majority of your fish. Almost all parasites can be killed by a 10 minute dip in pH adjusted freshwater and 6 weeks of 1.009 hyposalinity quarantine.

Rule #4: Know your fish. Damsels are highly territorial and often kill clownfish and other damsels. If you are going to have peaceful fish with more aggressive fish, make sure the peaceful fish have some time to get comfortable with your tank before adding the more aggressive ones.

Rule #5: If something is wrong, do water changes frequently. If you're having major problems (like disease outbreak) you can do 10% water changes every day to keep your fish from stressing out and getting sicker.

The feeding sounds like you are doing it right. A lot of fish store and marine aquarium books skip the months of time you should have a marine tank set up before you add fish or hurry you through adding the fish.

Another factor to check is to make sure you have calibrated your hydrometer. (Have someone else or your fish store compare its results to a refractometer's if you aren't using a refractometer.)

Right now, it sounds like your tank is cycling, as I assume you meant ammonia, not pH.
 
Ben,

Thanks for the help. I did start off with two packs of "bio-????" something for getting the bacteria going. I let this in the tank for 48 hours prior to putting any fish in. The tank was up and running with wet/dry for 5 days prior to the addition of the bacteria. It's funny how most of the fish have lasted 2-3 weeks before dying??? I guess that's the perplexing part.

I won't be adding any additional fish for 2-4 weeks just to be sure that the tank is cycled properly. Lost enough fish already. I will try the "Deli Shrimp" as you suggested. Once things get squared away, I will introduce more live rock and some anenome before adding more clown fish so that they have some refuge.

Thanks again,

Dave
 
Another thing to point out is, if you cant keep fish alive in there, you wont be able to keep an anemone in there, they are alot easier to kill and harder to take care of then a clown fish, and anemones require matured aquariums..
 
Dave,

Most fish can live in serious polution for a little while, but the pollution was getting steadily worse as the days passed. The four types of fish you described are also some of the toughest reef fish in terms of surviving bad water quality. It's sort of like how we would go if living in a house slowly being filled with methane gas over a course of months (ignoring the fact that the house would blow up every time somebody turned on a light ;) ).

If you want a place for the clownfish to live, you are better off buying a fake anenome than a real one, because it won't die and fill your tank with ammonia. I'm of the opinion that nobody should buy a sea anenome until they've kept fish, mushroom corals, button polyps, and large polyp stony corals alive for at least a year. They live hundreds of years in the wild and average six months in fish tanks.

Damsels are every bit as immune to real anenomes as clownfish, so a real one would not be much protection. Clownfish, in fact, are damselfish and all damselfish have the anenome immunity. Clownfish are just slower and not very vicious as damsels go, so many of the other damsels can kill them, just like they kill any damsel that invades their territory. Tanks full of damselfish work on the principle that they are all too tough and established to get killed by each other. Damselfish are known to attack sharks, so they're pretty much the wolverines of the reef world: fearless, mean, and tougher than almost anything else their size (except mantis shrimp, but that's a whole different issue).

Cycling a tank generally takes 1-3 months to complete properly. Those containers of bacteria might knock a week or two off the process, but they really are not as good as they claim. If you are going to use the deli shrimp, I strongly recommend getting the damsels out of there, as a true cycle first sends your ammonia off the chart, then your nitrite, then finally the nitrate before they all settle down to near-zero values.

If you don't have anywhere to put the damsels, just do water changes pretty frequently and the tank will go through a small cycle. Then you should only add one fish per month, so that you don't trigger another cycle, or purposely overfeed the tank a little after it is cycled with the damsels, so that the excess food will feed the bacteria. You don't want to overfeed much, though, or you could get too much toxin in there for the fish.
 
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