View Full Version : Help With Set Up
silentskream
08-24-2004, 7:40 PM
i'm helping a friend set up a new freshwater tank, and she has some questions that i'm not really sure the answer too
1)first, can you use gravel (like the kind in freshwater tanks) in a saltwater tank? or will it mess something up?
2)she's got a tank that's about 20 or 30 gallons (she isnt sure, and i havent had a chance to look at it yet) what are all of the supplies she's going to need (in general, not specific to what fish she's getting) i know she'll need a filter, protein skimmer, lighting. what else?
3)and then, what are some good "beginner" salt water fish? i hate saying that, i know they're all fish that require time and effort, and i know saltwater fish can be delicate, but i'm just wondering something that she can keep a few of in the tank she has. obviously something small, but not super finicky since this is her first salt tank, and i'd like it to be a good experience.
4)also, what test kits should we get, what chemicals or whatever should we monitor? and what levels do they need to be at before we put the fish in. (i'm assuming we have to stabilize the nitrogen cycle just like in a freshwater tank, but i need to know the proper sodium levels, iodide levels, and whatever other levels.)
thanks a bunch!
bassman
08-24-2004, 8:08 PM
Hi Skream.
Its really recommended to used crushed coral. I wouldnt use anything else. Sand can be used if she gets a reef system setup. She defiantley needs a test kit. You are gonna do alot of testing when you first set it up. When my salt tank was going I had a couple 5 gallon buckets so I could make my water changes. You really should aerate your water when you make water changes. Some people have a small 10 gallon on the side for any sick fishies that you might have to quarantene. Blue damsels are really good starters. They are very hearty and can deal with the tank cycle. I had a small salt tank and am going to a large fresh tank. Its been 10 years and I am really cautious with it. (see new cloudy 55) I personally think a person should really have some time on their hands to take care of a salt tank. I wish your friend the best.
Gealcath
08-24-2004, 8:36 PM
Dont bother with crushed coral, it traps detritus, can harm and kill many mico fauna you want in the aquarium, and unless she wants to start a war, dont add damsel fishes as the first thing in there, unless of course you want nothing but damsel fish in there. Sand is the preferd methode and alot of sources that tell you to use crushed coral are outdated, as a DSB has alot more benefit then crushed coral (and a DSB can forgive more begginer mistakes then crushed coral can)
If aragonite playsand cant be found, some regullar silca playsand can be used (use a smallest grain size possible)
The main things you have to watch for are ammonia and nitrite. Once both of those are 0 you can start to add fish. Iodine and Calcium are only really important to corals, coraline algae, and some inverts like crabs.
The best way to cycle the tank is a fishless cycle. This can be done by throwing a cocktail shimp or 2 into the aquarium and let it rot completly. Once ammonia and nitrite are 0 your good to go. Uncured live rock can get the same results, as the organisms that die on the rock will cycle the tank as well.
benjen
08-25-2004, 9:29 AM
Silentskream, I agree with all of Gealcath's advice.
For some "starter" fish: gobies, chromis (a less war-like subset of the damsel family), clownfish (another subset of the damsels), and cardinals are all very common and easy to take care of on average. Beware "gobies" with the word "Mandarin" in their name though, as those are dragonets and very hard to care for. Do not put more than two clownfish in a small tank, though you can have larger groups of chromis and cardinals.
I'd recommend getting a pair of clownfish, chromis, or cardinals. If you find the tank to be closer to 30 gallons than 20, then you could add one small goby (or one more chromis/cardinal) and have a good balance. A 20 gallon can really normally only support two small fish, while a 30 can support 3 or maybe 4. If your friend really likes damselfish aside from chromis and clowns, you can usually put two of those in and probably nothing else. Most damsels are very difficult to kill, because they are the wolverines of the fish world and violently protect their personal space. An adult domino damsel, for instance, can be kept in a shark tank because it is so violent. :laugh:
silentskream
08-25-2004, 11:54 AM
yeah i was planning on doing the fishless cycle.
i noticed one of you used the abbreviation DSB.. what does that stand for?
howmany water changes do i need to do during the cycle? in freshwater you only have to do one at the very end of the cycle.
and also, if we're doing changes more often than that, we have to add salt everytime i presume?
what other supplies do we need besides the filter and the protein skimmer?
and can i use an HOB filter? or does it have to be a canister? i prefer canister personally, but i dont know if she does or not.
mygreengoldfish
08-25-2004, 6:41 PM
First of all, DSB=Deep Sand Bed. It is usually 2-4" deep depending on how small the substrate you use is, finer allows a shallower sand bed while coarser needs to be thicker.
Once everything is cycled, you can do a water change because nitrates will probably be a little high. And yes, you have to replace the salt water with salt water.
As for filtration, live rock and a hang on the back(HOB) protein skimmer is very simple and efficient. A canister filter is not necessary to use a mechanical filter, the protein skimmer does close to the same thing. Also if you don't use another filter, it well lower maintenance and keep less tubes on the back wall of your tank. I have heard good reviews of AquaC Remora with the maxijet 1200, this is an HOB skimmer that costs around $160. There are other skimmers out there so this is not your only choice but avoid Seaclones and Prizms which are bad.
Other equipment you will need is:
a refractometer or hydrometer to measure the level of salt
a salt water ph kit
a thermometer
a normal marine fluorescent for lighting will work if you only get fish
some live rock for the fish to swim around and for filtration (optional but recomended)
some hermits and snails to control algae
and a heater.
I hope I didn't leave anything out. Good Luck with your friends tank!