Need some equipment advice, trying to set up a new tank.

L

lawdawg18

AC Members
Oct 6, 2003
60
0
0
Jackson, Ms
Visit site
Went out today to purchase a 100gal tank to clear out a over stocked 55 I recently purchased. Well while looking for a 100 the wife and I spotted a 150gal that had a beautiful stand and canopy with it. Wife like the 150 stand soo much better than the 100 stand we had to get the big one. The 55gal tank I have I did not buy any equipment for. I purchased it already set up with fish and all. Now I have a 150 coming tomorrow morning that I am going to need to purchase, filters, powerheads, heaters, lights ect for and I dont really feel like I know what is the best to go with. I didnt really want to get into what all I needed with the store owner b/c I know they are there to sell stuff and make money.
I plan to do fish with some live rock. I dont want to get too technical with all the reef stuff right off the bat maybe later in life. I have a 3 tangs, emperor angel, a clown, a chromis, and one other fish that are waiting for their new home, but I don't want to rush things, move all the fish in it and have them die. So I want to take it slow and make sure it is done right.
My question is what equipment would yall suggest for a 150gal, for fish and live rock. It is drilled, with the 2 large boxes in it. Also if you know of a good source for the equipment please include that info. I want to purchase good stuff but it does not have to be the most expensive, I dont want to have to break the bank.
I have been reading the "starting a saltwater tank" sticky, I have actually read it a several times now.
THANKS
Jason
 
Last edited:
For starters, you will need a sump. If it were my tank, I would go out and buy the biggest tank that would fit in the stand. Then set up your overflows to drain into it, and use a submersible pump, like a Danner MagDrive, for the return.

The simplest sump has no baffles, and you just put all your equipment (skimmer, heater, return pump etc) into it. Adding baffles allows you to keep a steady water level in some sections, prevent bubbles from returning to the main tank, and also opens up thr possibility of having one section as a refugium for growing macroalgae and bugs.

Melev put together a nice description of sumps and their design here.

If you can do it, take your time and get the tank and equipment assembled just the way you want before moving the fish over. It may take weeks (took me two months of hard work to get a 90 reef going), but you and your fish will be happier.
 
Well, since you have overflows, you can use the 55 for a sump--that's the good news. The overflow kits should be included, though you might need to pick up some tubing. A pump, at least one, likely 2, to return the water from the sump will be needed. You'll need to determine the head height and pick a pump that will provide good turnover. I also like 1 powerhead per 2 foot of tank, so I think the 150 needs at least 4 (one on each side, then 2 somewhere in the middle area).

Lights--150's are very deep. You might be better off going with metal hallides to begin with, just to provide light penetration.

I'd also figure on at least 1.5 pounds of rock per gallon--so figure 120-160 pounds, based on water volume in the system.
 
Yeah I have been really reading up on everything I can find about DYI sumps. One question, in the event of a power outage and the pump goes out what keeps the sump from over flowingm all over the floor? Someone else mentioned to me about using the 55 for the sump but it currently has fish in it. Any recommendations on places to buy the pumps, heaters, rocks and such?
Thanks
Jason
 
Because you have overflows on the main tank, you shouldn't have too much water going to the sump when the pump goes off. I have the water level in mine set so it can handle all the water that drains down when my return pump is off. I don't believe in check valves, all it takes is one small snail to cause a flood.

My favorite supplier for dry goods is Premium Aquatics. They are responsive, fast, and relatively cheap. Their base rock ("reef bones") was very nice as well.
 
I've bought lots of stuff from Big Al's--good prices, and I've never had a problem with the shipping times. Dr. Foster and Smith's is also a good place--That Fish Place and PetSolutions usually has good prices as well. Tamp Bay Saltwater is recommended for rock, but it's not cured, so you'd need to be able to cure it before adding it to the tank.

The risk of overflowing with built-in overflows is pretty small. The overflows will have a pipe inside them that restricts how much water will go into the sump, so you have to play around and set the water level in the sump to accomodate that amount--the sump will not be completely full during normal operation. I've tested my system (120's, with 55 gallon sumps) and less than 10 gallons of water drains into the sump when the power goes out.

You'd need to setup the 150, put the fish into a tub for holding, put the 55 in place, fill with water, put in the rock, then put in the fish. Not fun, but it can be done in a day. Other option--get another 55, or a large, sturdy tub to use as the sump instead, and then keep the current 55 for quarantine/hospital use--it's a bit big, but with some of the large fish you have, would work.
 
So how do u set up the tank do the whole cycle thing in a day? I guess I dont understand completly.
Will any type of sterilized play sand work or does it have to be southdown or old castle?? I called around and wasnt able to find those two brands but good ole walmart has some siffted sterilized play sand.
 
The two boxes in the tank have slots at the top, middle, and at the bottom I still do not understand what keeps the water from going through the 3 levels of slots, and into the sump. If the power is out and the sump is not pumping back into the tank then the water has to go somewhere. Maybe I have gone in over my head with this big tank.



Never mind I think I figured it out its actually like two chamber inside of the slotted piece. RIGHT??
 
Last edited:
Yeah, there should be the piece with the slots, and then another piece. this is so the overflow draws water in from all levels of the tank, but it only drains the tank down to a certain level.
 
lawdawg18 said:
So how do u set up the tank do the whole cycle thing in a day? I guess I dont understand completly.
Will any type of sterilized play sand work or does it have to be southdown or old castle?? I called around and wasnt able to find those two brands but good ole walmart has some siffted sterilized play sand.
Click to expand...
If you move all the substrate and live rock into the tank, it doesn't need to cycle because you have moved the biological filter along with everything else.

Regular playsand is fine. Southdown/oldcastle are preferred because they buffer a little, but any sugar-fine sand will do.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
AquariaCentral.com
Top Bottom