A few newbie sump questions

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lawdawg18

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Oct 6, 2003
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Last weekend I picked up a 150 gallon reefready tank. I've been searching the web week reading about sumps. I'm new to sumps, all my other tanks have HOBs and Canisters. A few questions.
My tank has 2 overflows and 4 holes drilled. Do I need 4 pipes coming and going from the sump or, plumb the pipes together and have one pipe into the sump and one back to the tank? Do I go with 2 smaller pumps, or one large pump and split the line?
Also, I have seen about half of the sump owners have bio balls type media, the other half have more live rock, and more live sand. What are the advantages, disadvantages to either method? I kind of like the idea of more live rock and more live sand in the sump.

Thanks
Jason
 
As you havent had a reply yet, I will hopefully add my views which may stimulate some more replies from those more exerienced than I.

4 holes in a tank gives you lots of fexibility, I would certainly have two as output and one as a return for a start. Ive always found that its a tricky job regulating the flows so make sure you set up and test with fresh water first (ordinary tap water will suffice, then siphon this out and start with RO water when youve set up and are happy with the flows).

As far as the 4 holes go you dont mention where they are drilled in the tank?. Can you be a bit more specific about the overflows where are they what are they how will they work ?

As far as the number of pumps go I would keep it simple (2 outputs to feed straight into the sump via gravity and then one pump with a return back to a third hole).

I have also read about extensivley about sump design, mine will have basically three chambers - one for water in, this flows into a sand and live rock chamber, which then flows into a return section where its pumped back. My skimmer sits in the first section.

Hopefully this will stimulate a few more replies.

Good luck

John
 
Thanks for the info.
I have been getting mixed opinons on the 1 large or 2 small pump issue.
The drain holes are drilled in the bottom of the tank toward the back, almost to the back glass.
Most of the people in online forums suggest putting live rock and sand into the sump. The guy at the LFS acted like I was crazy when I made this suggestion and told me to put bio-balls into a plastic milk create and just use that in the sump. I like the idea of the natural method unless there are some drawbacks I have not discovered yet.
What is the best way to construct the chambers in a sump???
Just use silicone and some acryllic from the hardware store???
I've been staring at this new 150 for almost 2 weeks now I'm ready to get started setting it up.

Thanks
Jason
 
With holes drilled in the bottom of the tank then I assume you will install pipes which when your tank is filled with water will then overflow and flow via a pipe fitted onto the bottom hole fitting into the sump. To avoid some of my problems I suggest two things:

- look at a 'thread' regarding a gurgling drain (this gives a link to a website which explains how to overcome this and give details of a good design to use, note pipe size in this link)

- you will need to build a weir around the pipe(s) to stop your beasties going down the pipes

For this, surround the pipes with either glass or acrylic (using an aquarium silicone) and add an adjustable comb to the top. The comb will act as a filter. Be careful of the height as this determines the level of water in your tank.

Everyone I talk to and from the net recommend either deep sand bed, live rock or both - Ive gone for the both option. Im also including a light and growing calerpa. There is also another good 'thread' regarding sump design worth looking at. As far as bio balls I havent seen anyone recommend them in the sump - maybe as a media above the sump as a trickle filter where they can be easily removed and cleaned.

Happy to help - please remember to fill and test with tap water first !!
 
If your tank is Reef ready and has overflows you'll need standpipes. Very easy and cheep to build, the most expensive part will be the bulkhead.

www.rl180reef.com/180/pages/standpipe/construct.htm

I would drain from both overflows and then plumb into one line going to the sump. Then I would pump back and split the flow to the other 2 holes for returns.
 
My tank came with the all the in tank plumbing, the stand pipes etc. It looks exactly like the pipes on the Durso page. except mine has a little strainer for the intake part.
A LFS owner made a good point for having 2 small pumps instead of one large pump, he said if for some reason a pump goes out you still have one pump that can keep the water moving until the other can be replaced. I think I'll probably go with 2 smaller pumps for that reason.
Jason
 
I use hard PVC from the tank to the sump, and flexible from the sump pump back to the tank. I dont think it matters just whatever is easier to plumb and makes a secure connection so there are no leaks.

On one of my returns I have fitted an Eheim pipe inside a PVC pipe and used PVC pipe glue to ensure a tight and permenant fit. I suppose with returns from the sump it would help to have a smooth flow to maximise pump output rather than have 90 degree PVC pipes, so flexible is probably best.
 
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