water change ?

Lady G

It's a mafia thing, nothing personl
Oct 6, 2005
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WI
gingersassatelli.bodybyvi.com
I have my salinity where I want it now. So When I do my next water change do I add the same amount of salt as when I was raising the salinity or do I add less now? I was adding about a 1/4 c of salt to each WC bucket, but if I keep adding that amount will it keep raising the SG? How do I maintain the level I am at?

Thank you,

Ginger
 
You cannot go by amounts added. You must measure by the specific gravity or salinity of the solution produced after the salts mix is fully dissolved dissolved. If you replace water of a certain specific gravity/salinity with water of the same specific gravity, the tank situation will be stable.
 
I change 50% of my brackish water weekly, thats about 15 gallons. I make the mix two days before the change by adding a heaped cup of salt to the change water and let it circulate for a day. The next day I test the SG and it is usually spot on or requires very little change.

Just make sure you top up evaporation with FW.
 
just make sure if your tank water evaporates some, replace it with water without salt in it, salt won't evaporate, only the water, then take your water out and replace it with the same SG/Salinity as what the tank is. like RTR stated you cannot go by amounts added, get a refractometer or hydrometer and measure your Sg that way. Refractometer's are better and easier and more acurate, also more expensive $40 here portable refractometer
or you could go to your lfs and get a hydrometer for about 12 bucks or order one here also:

refractometes and hydrometers
 
I do have a hydrometer, I was just saying about how I have added to each bucket...but I only let it sit over night, the SG in my tank is about 1.004 which I was wanting between that and 1.006 so I am trying to maintain that.

So I need to keep adding about the same amount of salt/bucket, let it sit for 24 hours (at least), test it and make adjustments to keep the water (in change bucket(s)) around the 1.004-1.006 range before adding...but let the water evaporate some before doing a WC and replace that with FW? So then I should only do 1 big WC once a week, not several small a couple times/week as I do with my FW?

Thanks,

Gin
 
You will definitely find it easier to do one large change a week and you will soon get to know roughly how much salt is needed for the change.

With evaporation, we were meaning the water that evaporates from your main tank should be topped up with freshwater.
 
FWIW - I measure both the SG in my tank and the SG in the bucket after adding the amount of salt I EXPECT I need to reach my desired SG (1.005ish) - seems safest to check both to make sure I'm keeping the SG where I want it. I do think with time you come to know how much salt to add to the bucket to get the right SG, but feel strongly you need to check to be safe.

I must have a very well covered tank despite using a HOB AC filter, but I never seem to have a significant amount of evaporation like so many folks mention.

Eric
 
I don't get alot of evaporation either, but I will top the tank off with FW before doing WC.
I did my WC today and have some readings I was wondering if they sound off to ya'll.

NitrAtes: 10
NitrItes: .25
PH: 7.8
Ammonia: .25
KH: took 4 drops to turn
GH: took 31 drops to turn
I know the trItes and Ammonia are a little high but what I found "odd" was the difference in drops of the KH and GH, does this sound normal...I'm just starting out with this stuff so it's all new to me. The GH went from the orange to a brownish color on the 30th drop then the 31st drop it was a sure green.
Should I add Epson salt and/or baking soda ( I have no way of getting crushed coral right now.

Thanks,

Gin
 
gstoffer said:
I don't get alot of evaporation either, but I will top the tank off with FW before doing WC.
I did my WC today and have some readings I was wondering if they sound off to ya'll.

NitrAtes: 10
NitrItes: .25
PH: 7.8
Ammonia: .25
KH: took 4 drops to turn
GH: took 31 drops to turn
I know the trItes and Ammonia are a little high but what I found "odd" was the difference in drops of the KH and GH, does this sound normal...I'm just starting out with this stuff so it's all new to me. The GH went from the orange to a brownish color on the 30th drop then the 31st drop it was a sure green.
gstoffer said:
Kh measures the buffering capacity or the ability to absorb and neutralize added acid without major changes to pH - yours is very low, crushed coral would help a bit, i know you can't get to any right now, but it's worth trying to find.


General hardness (GH) refers to the dissolved concentration primarily of magnesium and calcium ions. Other ions can contribute to water hardness but are usually insignificant and difficult to measure. When fish are said to prefer ``soft'' or ``hard'' water, it is gH, not kH that is being referred to. gH will not directly affect pH although "hard" water is generally alkaline due to some interaction of gH and kH.
Incorrect gH will affect the transfer of nutrients and waste products through cell membranes and can affect egg fertility, proper functioning of internal organs such as kidneys and growth. Within reason, most fish and plants can successfully adapt to local gH conditions, although breeding may be impaired.

Since your KH is so low, i would recommend doing water changes frequently, and keep a close eye on your PH, since many things can affect that and you don't have hardly any buffering right now, your ph could take a deep plung reletively quick.

ways to increase your GH would be Adding limestone to the aquarium (this will also increase kH which in turn will increase pH). Adding calcium carbonate (baking soda) will raise gH and kH

here is an in-depth article about GH,PH & KH

Article
 
AquariaCentral.com