water change ?

[Lady G]

I have my salinity where I want it now. So When I do my next water change do I add the same amount of salt as when I was raising the salinity or do I add less now? I was adding about a 1/4 c of salt to each WC bucket, but if I keep adding that amount will it keep raising the SG? How do I maintain the level I am at?

Thank you,

Ginger

[LittlePuff]

Test the salinity in the bucket and keep track of how much salt you put in until it reaches the level you want.

Kim

[RTR]

You cannot go by amounts added. You must measure by the specific gravity or salinity of the solution produced after the salts mix is fully dissolved dissolved. If you replace water of a certain specific gravity/salinity with water of the same specific gravity, the tank situation will be stable.

[reiverix]

I change 50% of my brackish water weekly, thats about 15 gallons. I make the mix two days before the change by adding a heaped cup of salt to the change water and let it circulate for a day. The next day I test the SG and it is usually spot on or requires very little change.

Just make sure you top up evaporation with FW.

[Pufferpoison]

just make sure if your tank water evaporates some, replace it with water without salt in it, salt won't evaporate, only the water, then take your water out and replace it with the same SG/Salinity as what the tank is. like RTR stated you cannot go by amounts added, get a refractometer or hydrometer and measure your Sg that way. Refractometer's are better and easier and more acurate, also more expensive $40 here portable refractometer (http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/Prod_Display.cfm?pcatid=9957&N=2004+113761)
or you could go to your lfs and get a hydrometer for about 12 bucks or order one here also:

refractometes and hydrometers (http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/NavResults.cfm?N=2004+113761)

[Lady G]

I do have a hydrometer, I was just saying about how I have added to each bucket...but I only let it sit over night, the SG in my tank is about 1.004 which I was wanting between that and 1.006 so I am trying to maintain that.

So I need to keep adding about the same amount of salt/bucket, let it sit for 24 hours (at least), test it and make adjustments to keep the water (in change bucket(s)) around the 1.004-1.006 range before adding...but let the water evaporate some before doing a WC and replace that with FW? So then I should only do 1 big WC once a week, not several small a couple times/week as I do with my FW?

Thanks,

Gin

[reiverix]

You will definitely find it easier to do one large change a week and you will soon get to know roughly how much salt is needed for the change.

With evaporation, we were meaning the water that evaporates from your main tank should be topped up with freshwater.

[Jayhawk]

FWIW - I measure both the SG in my tank and the SG in the bucket after adding the amount of salt I EXPECT I need to reach my desired SG (1.005ish) - seems safest to check both to make sure I'm keeping the SG where I want it. I do think with time you come to know how much salt to add to the bucket to get the right SG, but feel strongly you need to check to be safe.

I must have a very well covered tank despite using a HOB AC filter, but I never seem to have a significant amount of evaporation like so many folks mention.

Eric

[Lady G]

I don't get alot of evaporation either, but I will top the tank off with FW before doing WC.
I did my WC today and have some readings I was wondering if they sound off to ya'll.

NitrAtes: 10
NitrItes: .25
PH: 7.8
Ammonia: .25
KH: took 4 drops to turn
GH: took 31 drops to turn
I know the trItes and Ammonia are a little high but what I found "odd" was the difference in drops of the KH and GH, does this sound normal...I'm just starting out with this stuff so it's all new to me. The GH went from the orange to a brownish color on the 30th drop then the 31st drop it was a sure green.
Should I add Epson salt and/or baking soda ( I have no way of getting crushed coral right now.

Thanks,

Gin

[Pufferpoison]

[QUOTE=gstoffer]I don't get alot of evaporation either, but I will top the tank off with FW before doing WC.
I did my WC today and have some readings I was wondering if they sound off to ya'll.

NitrAtes: 10
NitrItes: .25
PH: 7.8
Ammonia: .25
KH: took 4 drops to turn
GH: took 31 drops to turn
I know the trItes and Ammonia are a little high but what I found "odd" was the difference in drops of the KH and GH, does this sound normal...I'm just starting out with this stuff so it's all new to me. The GH went from the orange to a brownish color on the 30th drop then the 31st drop it was a sure green.

Kh measures the buffering capacity or the ability to absorb and neutralize added acid without major changes to pH - yours is very low, crushed coral would help a bit, i know you can't get to any right now, but it's worth trying to find.


General hardness (GH) refers to the dissolved concentration primarily of magnesium and calcium ions. Other ions can contribute to water hardness but are usually insignificant and difficult to measure. When fish are said to prefer ``soft'' or ``hard'' water, it is gH, not kH that is being referred to. gH will not directly affect pH although "hard" water is generally alkaline due to some interaction of gH and kH.
Incorrect gH will affect the transfer of nutrients and waste products through cell membranes and can affect egg fertility, proper functioning of internal organs such as kidneys and growth. Within reason, most fish and plants can successfully adapt to local gH conditions, although breeding may be impaired.

Since your KH is so low, i would recommend doing water changes frequently, and keep a close eye on your PH, since many things can affect that and you don't have hardly any buffering right now, your ph could take a deep plung reletively quick.

ways to increase your GH would be Adding limestone to the aquarium (this will also increase kH which in turn will increase pH). Adding calcium carbonate (baking soda) will raise gH and kH

here is an in-depth article about GH,PH & KH

Article (http://www.drhelm.com/aquarium/chemistry.html)

[Lady G]

Thank you for the article...it will help me tremendously!! I am going to add some baking soda for now (I have that on hand), but I WILL buy some crushed coral, I'll just have to wait until Friday (payday) and I'll just order it from thatpetplace or somewhere like that then I know I'll get it, waiting until I can make it to the closest LFS (which is an hour away) it may be forever before I make it. But it sounds like I need to do something so I'll get at least the baking soda in. And I do have an airstone (a small one) but maybe for now I'll add that too.

Now should I add the crushed coral to the filter or the tank, I've heard both but which will benifit the most?

And what KH/GH should I be aiming for?

Thanks soooo much,

Gin

[Roan Art]

4 dKH isn't that low, it's fine where it is so don't worry about it. Don't add baking soda, it's not needed. The KH will rise on its own over the course of a couple of weeks after you add crushed coral for the pH anyhow. A low KH to worry about is under 3. Actually, I'd kill to have 3 again. I've got 1-2 out of the tap right now. Just keep up with your regular water changes and you're golden.

It'll take a couple of weeks for the pH to rise. Coral dissolves faster in acidic water and since yours is alkaline, it won't work miracles overnight :)

Your GH is so high because of the salt, Gin. Soon as you start adding stuff like that to the water, you "thicken" it and make it "harder". So adding salt to the water thickens it and raises the GH. I get the same effect when I add magnesium sulfate into my tanks for the plants. It raises the GH somewhat. It's perfectly okay and all good.

Test one of your other tank's GH and you'll see what I mean.

So, don't aim to change the GH or KH. It'll rise on its own with the salt and coral, and so will the pH.

As for where to put the coral -- that's up to you. I used coral for the substrate. Seemed easiest for me and looks "marine-ish" :)

Roan

[Pufferpoison]

IMO, we have a 55G that is set up like one we've seen at a petstore and it has lots of plants (90% of mine are fake) and some rock in the middle with a piece of driftwood on both sides(pics are a little older than current setup), but to stay on topic :OT: for substrate we have the brownish color rock w/ white rock mixed in (gravel not rock) and it looks very nice. you could mix some crushed coral in with this type of rock, not to have too much crushed coral or too much of the white look (no offence, Roan, my puffer tank is the "white look" LOL)

55 planted (http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f313/pufferpoison/55%20planted/usethis.jpg)

[Roan Art]

. . . you could mix some crushed coral in with this type of rock, not to have too much crushed coral or too much of the white look (no offence, Roan, my puffer tank is the "white look" LOL) Hey, I said it looked "marine-ish" -- didn't say I LIKED it :joke:

Actually, it looked pretty cool until the diatoms set up camp :rolleyes:

Roan

[RTR]

IMHO & IME, in BW a KH of 4 is dangerously low. NIMT. I admit that most of my BW experience has been w/puffers - notoriously messy high bioload fish. I use aragonite substrates over RFUG to maximize my KH and support high pH without significant variation.

[Lady G]

Well my substrate is sand (playsand), I was going to go with the seachem sand for it originally but when my plans for my 55 fell through I had all this sand and figured I'd use it instead. I was going for sand because of my violet goby (and I like the look). Maybe I should just get some of the sand I was going to go with and redue the tank? Although at thatpetplace they have a sale on 5lbs of crushed coral, and a couple other buffering substrates, would that be enough to add to the sand I already have or would it take more than that?

As far as the baking soda I had already added it after reading the article I got (which I put on my fav's list). So I am going to see if that did make a difference or not and after Friday I will order something to add to the tank (coral or whichever).

Pufferpoison: I love your tank it looks great! I stayed away from driftwood because I was told in a BW tank it could be harmful (because of the tanins or whatever)

Right now mine doesn't have alot in it (I spent so much on everything for the 55 that I didn't get to get....long story), so I had to go with what I had, I'll be getting more rock and stuff for mine.

Anyway's Thanks everyone, when I test again I'll let you know the results and after I get the coral I'll post results. Any other suggestions are ALWAYS welcome!!

Thanks,

Gin

[Pufferpoison]

hey thanks, it's changed some, but you get the idea. it's not a brackish tank. i think i read that the driftwood lowers the ph some, but haven't had any drop as of yet. Right now i'm waiting for my 90G to come in. i'm going SW/Reef setup. talk about blowing money. Just my substrate / live rock is costing around $500. thank god for credit cards :)

[RTR]

The thing with driftwood in BW is that it rots faster in BW than in FW. If you want the look in BW, use the synthetics.

[Lady G]

hey thanks, it's changed some, but you get the idea. it's not a brackish tank. i think i read that the driftwood lowers the ph some, but haven't had any drop as of yet. Right now i'm waiting for my 90G to come in. i'm going SW/Reef setup. talk about blowing money. Just my substrate / live rock is costing around $500. thank god for credit cards :)

I sooo need a bigger tank, I've "almost" got one three times now each time right as I was going to get it something fell through!! Last time I had every thing, just got the light and hood (last thing I needed) and went to get the tank from the guy and he changed his mind, he decided he wanted to keep it...eerrrr I was so upset!!!
I'd love a salt water tank they are so beautiful....got to get this BW figured out first (and more room & tanks & ect..ect..).

I am thinking I'll get the fake driftwood I just love the look of it. Maybe when I order the coral stuff I'll get a couple. Oh back to my question though... Would it be better for me to get Florida crushed coral...a cichlid sand mix...or that volcanic rock stuff? I was thinking the cichlid sand (by seachem), since I have sand already I could mix some in with it (I know I shouldn't just put it in on TOP the old). Would that work?

I tested after the baking soda and it took 33 drops for the GH but only 4 for the KH.

Thanks everyone! :fairy:

[Pufferpoison]

as far as mixing it, i've read on the saltwater forums that you shouldn't do that with sand and CC. i can't remeber why and can't find, it might not have anything to do with your situation and it could have had something to do with inverts sifting or something???? but you might wait to hear from someone for sure on that matter. you could always stuff it in a filter bag in your filter too. i would take the florida CC. i have a bag of it here that i'm not using (bought a 45LBS bag for my 75G and some for my 29 gallon, changed my mind and went w/ a 90G instead and Live sand) so i have lots of it here. depending on how much you need / location. i would give you some (if it's a small amount or sell the rest of bag to you if you wanted a large amount) if you paid for shipping. PM if your interested.

[Lady G]

Well I ended up ording "Ivory Coast Sand" it was with the buffering substrates and said it helps maintain a high pH so I hope that will work, as I was looking at them all I just liked it best and thought if I did mix it with what I already have then that would look best. But now I guess I'll wait to hear from anyone else if I should or shouldn't mix it together. If not I only got a 5lb bag so no biggie, I'll just add it in the filter then. (I did end up ordering a couple pieces of the fake driftwood and a cave) can't just order ONE thing you know :rolleyes:

I am going to go ahead and get a WC done and not add the baking soda to it and just go from there, when the sand comes then I'll add it (whichever way) and hopefully things will work out before I end up loosing anyone.

Thank you

Gin :cool2: