Skilter 250

[ragc]

Anyone have information on the Skilter 250? It is a 250 GPH hang-on (outside the tank) power filter with air-driven protein skimmer. I am thinking of upgrading to it from my 100 GPH power filter. Is the skimmer in the Skilter effective for a 10 gallon tank, or is it there to sell the power filter only?

[LittlePuff]

I've heard they were crap, but I don't have any experience with them.

Kim

[Dangerdoll]

my sister got one for her tank a few years ago and she wound up replacing it after a couple of weeks because it never worked quite right. Whether the design has been changed since then, I dunno but I'd say 3 years ago, the were pretty shakey.

[fjpod]

I used a Skilter 400 on a 45 gal reef tank for a few years. (In combination with an Eheim 2217 canister). The combination worked fine. The skimmer itself works better if you forget the venturi valve and install a wooden airstone with a small airpump. Put a valve in the line so you can control the volume.

The venturi system will work, but it is noisy.

[ragc]

Thanks! I ordered it, since it is pretty cheap and I figured that 250 gph is better than my current 100 gph anyway, even if the venturi doesn't work... It should come today and I'll update ya'all on quality, etc. I will go ahead with the wooden airstone, as I've used those before and like the micro bubble size (but aren't larger bubbles able to carry heavier contaminants into the cup?!).

[ragc]

:laugh:

Well, I got it, modified it, and it's doing it's job fine! Pulls a lot of brown stuff out of my 10 gallon, and hangs on the back without occupying space. It cost $29.00 and all the mods were free, as they were done with odds and ends I had around.

Had some trouble with adjustment and overflows, but installed a big overflow line back into the sump and that should solve the problem while I get the knack of controlling it.

I performed two mods on the Skilter 250:

1) Drilled a hole through the bottom of a 35mm film cannister, inserted a 2" ashwood air block's stem through the hole and ran airline tubing from this assembly (which I placed at the bottom of the skimmer chimney) through one of the openings in the bottom of the skimmer to the sump, and out to a tee with a release valve on the open stem, then to an airpump with volume control valve. This setup allows me to adjust volume and pressure of the air to the skimmer. The film cannister blocks most bubbles from escaping into the sump through the bottom openings, and keeps the tank bubble-free, The airstone doas not make noise like the stock venturi valve does (and that makes an awful racket!).

2) At first I drilled a small hole at the top of the overflow tray side over the return weir and inserted an airline "tee" with the open end pointing up as a vent, and airline tubing to the sump. This was to act as an overflow return. I discovered quickly, after my first overflow from bad adjustment, that airline tubing is too small in diameter to keep up with an out of control skimmer reaction (China Syndrome?!). I drilled a 1/2" hole, added a PVC fitting and some 1/2" pond tubing I had in my shop. This should work, and solve the small overflow tray problem.

http://www.aquaticphotos.com/data/media/10/Dsc00195mmm.jpg

The left side showing the film cannister/airblock inside the working skimmer, and the air supply line routing and air bleed valve.

http://www.aquaticphotos.com/data/media/10/Dsc00198mmm.jpg

The top showing the large overflow drain dumping back into the sump.

The skimmate tends to be on the wet side, although on ocassion I have set it exactly right for very dry froth. With more practice I will find the "sweet spot" more reliably. I can run it all day and night long, emptying the tray every night (the overflow is for emergencies only - don't want my little 10 gallon tank to empty itself). It has made anoticeable good in my water quality.

[ragc]

Update (if anyone is interested):

Two weeks running...totally broken-in, finely adjusted; great skimmer for a small tank! I am producing dry foam (stays stuck to the lid) with lots of junk in it. The tray needs to be emptied about twice a week, and the liquid in it is very dark brown with plenty of solids. I recommend this modified Skilter to anyone running a 10 gallon SW. The stock item may be pretty worthless, but it can be had very cheaply, and it does a great job after modification.

[simmon53]

I had one for about 2 months and it never skimmed, I installed a Sea Clone 100 and it imediatly started skimming brown stuff. So my adivce is to not buy the Skilter.

[kcmo lawman]

I had one for about 2 months and it never skimmed, I installed a Sea Clone 100 and it imediatly started skimming brown stuff. So my adivce is to not buy the Skilter.


Depending on the size of the tank, I would stay away from Sea Clones. I started off with a Prizm (Junk in my opinion as well) and switched to a Coralife Super Skimmer. Much, MUCH better of a skimmer for about the same price.

Bradd

[ragc]

I had one for about 2 months and it never skimmed, I installed a Sea Clone 100 and it imediatly started skimming brown stuff. So my adivce is to not buy the Skilter.

Mine started right off...it skims like a charm, with the mods. Every 2 or 3 days I remove a tray of dark brown skimmate with lots of solids!

Out of the box it foamed, but made so much racket and bubbled my tank up so much I almost threw it out the window!

I posted all of this not to recommend anyone buy one, but to help those that already bought one out! In my situation, with a 10 gallon, 2 power filters, one surface skimmer and heater, the entire back of the tank was taken by equipment. The Skilter 250 gives me a 200 gph flow through a decent power filter and a skimmer in the same space. I still change water every 2 weeks, so the protein skimming is not necessary, but nice to have.

Sorry yours bombed...if you still have it you can try working the mods on it for fun.