View Full Version : Want to stop algae now!
Sumpin'fishy
03-12-2003, 9:48 PM
I have had my planted tank up and running for a week and a half and already have grown about 2 to 3 inches on my Micranthemum umbrosum. My Anubias nana has started 2 new sprouts, and has almost fully rooted itself to the driftwood, and some of my Crypts have had new sprouts and distinct growth! I've even been getting some mild "pearling" already. I'm really amazed at all this growth with just 2.0wpg and 11.5ppm CO2 (or thereabouts on average). I really saw a difference when I added my DIY CO2 canister to a water-filled container and added a heater and turned up the heat! I got my CO2 concentration to about 18.5ppm and about 6.8 pH. Anyways, the CO2 has slowed down a bit, but is still steady at 1 bubble every 7 to 8 seconds.
The problem I am starting to see, and don't want to get out of control, is algae is starting to really get a start growing in my tank already. I have plenty of brown (diatom?) algae and a bit of blue-green algae (never seen this before) on a few plants in the high light areas. I plan to add Ottos this weekend, but I'm wondering whether there is some other avenue I should proceed into also? I have been leaving my lights on for 14 hours a day, but I'm going to 13 today, and then down to 12 hours this weekend (to gradually change -for fish). I have Flourish and Flourish Potassium, but haven't even started adding them yet! I was waiting for my plants to "establish" themselves. Should I start adding (half doses, then work to full doses) these ferts? I have heard numerous times (Plantbrain also says this) to "feed" your plants and they will keep the algae from getting a foothold. I know I need to be careful and want to proceed slowly, but am I getting algae already due to lack of plant growth (as silly as it sounds with my growth rates). I just don't have any experience to fall back on, and don't want to battle major algae later on, when I can neutralize now and keep it in check!
I am using Flourite Red 50/50 with sand, but the plants seem to be growing roots into the water column also. Do they need ferts?
I measured about 5ppm nitrates yesterday, so they are not without any nitrogen. For more details see my tank description (20 gal planted) Please give some good feedback!
Your biggest contributor to algae is your photoperiod, IME. After a looong bout with aglae, I brought my photoperiod down to just more than 11 hours. The Oto's will take care of the brown algae. I will let the more knowledgable tell you about the chem/bio end of the equation.
Do you have other tank cleaners? I have SAE's, Amano shrimp and Mollies that all seem to do a terrific job at cleaning.
stokeboy
03-13-2003, 6:29 AM
Ure tank needs time to settle in blue green is common at such an early stage.
If ure lights are new they can be a bit harsh i would recomend some floating plants espesially frogbit and hornwort. These also remove nitrates etc.
A new tank should have very large numbers of fast growing plants stuffed into it so the algae doesn't have chance to get a foot hold. Try hygros, ambulias and crispus bulbs. These can then be replaced by more delicate plants at a later date.
I personally feel that eight hours is enough for the lights to be on. A timer on this is a very good idea for both the fish and the plants.
Try and remove the algae especially the blue green which can grow very fast by hoovering it out.
I would say that everything that Stokeboy said is right on, especially "A new tank should have very large numbers of fast growing plants stuffed into it so the algae doesn't have chance to get a foot hold.
8 hours is enough? I might have to try that (at 10 now -- thought that was the minimum for some reason)... I got hair algae and my diandra is starting to look like green Q-tips. Sumpin'Fishy, have you looked into Phosphorus at all? I was poking around some archives and saw plantbrain referring to that as well (Fleet enema, etc.). I just ordered a phosphate test kit and some of the 'new' Flourish Phosphorous. Has anyone tried this product yet?
Sumpin'fishy
03-14-2003, 7:50 PM
I have not really been wanting to try phosphate additions yet. I know they can be beneficial to high light developed tanks, but I think it would be too risky to add something known to be a problem with algae if not kept very close control of. I'll probably try using the basics like I have for ferts now. I haven't used any yet, but I will wait to see how they work. I have an iron rich substrate, Flourish (basics+micro-nutrients), and Flourish Potassium (necessary macro-nutrient needed for growth). I figure that I need to get things under control here, before I start adding stuff like phosphate. Healthy feeding of your fish should give decent amounts of nitrogen and phosphate. I'll see how things go and work at it from there.
Tempest
03-14-2003, 9:22 PM
I'd say that whether you need to dose or not depends on what the water parameters already are. 2 watts per gallon isn't really on the high side anyway. The fish and the feeding *may* contribute enough phosphate and nitrate but you'd need to test to find out.
My water here never seems to contain any phosphate and even my low light (1.5 wpg) ends up needing a little dose. The difference I've been doing with it as opposed to the higher light tank is to do a 50% water change once a week then dose it only that one time up to the same level I dose two or three times a week in my high light tank. The tank was *reset* up only two weeks ago so it may not be time enough to tell if it will be right in the long run but so far it looks really good.
This is a common problem with newly set up tanks. It needs some time to settle in. I had similar problems with algae. So severe that I had to do a black out accompanied by many large water changes. Get your water company to send you a print out of what's in your tap water....everything.
Your plants need nitrates and phosphates to grow well and do their job of keeping your tank balanced. Without these two essential nutrients you handicap them. I felt the same way about phosphates in particular, but followed Tom Barr's advice after doing my blackout and bought a bottle of Fleet Enema. I had no trace of phosphates in my tank when I started and now can maintain 1.0ppm. It has made a huge difference. NO MORE ALGAE.....AT ALL!! And the plants are doing great. Nitrates are just as important. If you don't have a test kit for them, pick one up and test regularly. You can buy KNO3 much cheaper in powder form, than by using ready made products.
Len
Where can I find this KNO3?
Tempest
03-15-2003, 8:37 AM
You can buy it as Green Light Stump Remover at Walmart. They are probably getting their new spring stocks in by now or you can buy the chemical at this addy.
http://www.plantguild.com/index.html
Sumpin'fishy
03-15-2003, 1:07 PM
Thanks for all the advice and experience. I would love to get a printout of my tapwater and see what's in there! I have most basic test kits, but a few I can't get my hands on without ordering them online somewhere. I don't want to do this for the simple fact of cost, convenience, and if I run out it takes about a week, plus all the shipping cost is too high when just buying a few items. Another example is when I was cycling this last time, I ran out of Ammonia test kit before I really was getting any Nitrite readings, so I just waited a few days then redosed, repeated again, then started doing it every other day, then every day, etc. until tank was cycled (Dose Ammonia and have no nitrites next day and Nitrates were high). I would have bought another test kit, but I only use it for cycling and they become inneffective after a while, so I didn't buy any more.
Couple questions:
1) Where can I get Fleet Enema?
2) If I do decide to buy all the necessary test kits, can I buy them and use them until I run out, then just keep up the same schedule of fertilizing? I really don't like testing more than the basics too often. I test pH, Nitrates, and occasionally KH on a normal schedule (weekly or so) but get Ammonia, and Nitrite for cycling purposes. Since I use DIY CO2 I know I need to keep up pH tests!
3) Finally, where should I buy a good test kit for these necessary Nutrients? Big Als, Dr Foster-Smith, or other? I also need a set of pruning tools!:rolleyes:
1. I believe that you can get Fleet enema from your local drugstore.
2. I'm not much help here... I think that I have the same question as you. I test my pH regularly, and KH when my pH looks higher than normal. I just got my phosphate kit today, so that may be a weekly ritual until I get the hang of it. My algae (:rolleyes: ) and fish are happy, so I know my nitrates are there (weekly test shows around 12.5) without adding more.
3. My LFS has NO3 and KH test kits regularly, but for online purchases (and for the phosphate test kit) I go to big al's or thatfishplace. Big Al's is routinely cheaper by 50 cents to a dollar+ than That Fish Place, and I can count on one having something when the other claims to be out of stock. FWIW I have bought from Drs FOster Smith, and have had no problems. They just seem a little more expensive (check shipping costs, too).
IMO, pH,nitrates, and PO4 are the most important assuming you know your kH. But even then, kH changes so it's a good idea to have that one too. Especially when dosing CO2. They should be available at any LFS. If not, you need to find another LFS.
Yes, Fleet Enema is available at your drugstore. If not you need to find........you know the drill.
Sumpin', yes use them til they run out or for 6 months(my rule of thumb) as they sometimes are less accurate when old.
Len