DIY Stand and Hood Plans now available!

Thanks! I wasn't in a rush since I didn't have the tank yet. I started it back in October and only worked on it for short periods of time (ie, 1/2 hour here, hour there). I didn't have written out plans so figured stuff out as I went. I finished it in February. Had I an 8 hour day, plans and materials, I imagine it could have been done within two weeks.
 
Hey I just got around to looking at the plans I only see 2 things I don't completely understand.

#1 Is the back somehow inset, the part where you show the plywood will fit in the grey outline? I don't understand that part.

#2 Did you overlap the sides with the front panel or the front & back with the side panels? Does the top overlap the sides,front & back?

So I guess basically I'm completely confused on the panel placement.

Also you did use a sheet of wood on the top didn't you? I thought i remembered you saying that but the plan just didn't say that.

I am probably going to build this as soon as I free up some money for a bigger tank, a stand without a tank would only make it worse, lol
 
#1 You're talking about the door frame. Four pieces of 3/4"X2" (or whatever dimensions) wood make the frame of the door. The plywood had to attach to it somehow. So, on the backside of the frame(b4 its glued together) I cut away a 3/4" piece (3/8" deep which is half the thickness of the frame) all the way around. This creates a recess for the plywood to fit into much like a picture frame.

#2 I'm not sure if you're talking about the hood or stand? For the stand, neither. I cut the front corners at 45 degree angles so it wouldn't require corner moulding to hide the butt ends. If you're going to put corner moulding (trim) on it, it won't matter except for dimensions. To put the sides overlapping the front and back will make the stand 2X's the thickness of the plywood your using wider than the front (and back) piece. If you overlap the sides with the front and back, then the stand will only be as wide (long) as the front and back piece.
For the hood, it doesn't matter since I covered the corners with moulding. As for the top, it covers all so when looking at it, all you see is the top butted against the trim. I actually used Luan plywood. That's the real thin stuff, 4mm thickness I think? Look through the pile b/c it varies in shades.

HTH, if not, ask more questions!
 
I am going to build mine this weekend. I am building a frame from 4x4's and 2x4's (husband insisted) and am going to put a 3/4" plywood on top. When it's all put together, I'm going to stain it.

My question is, how do I hide the ugly edges of the plywood? Quarter rounds, or is there something else I can use? I want to stain that too so it all looks like one piece.
 
Sure, quarter rounds, half rounds, a piece of 1X2 or 3 with a routered corner. Most home centers sell pre-worked decorative trim in various styles. I almost used half-round that looked like rope. I have yet to see this (never looked for it either) but the home centers (hardware stores) sell adhesive backed faux wood finished tape to apply over the butt ends of plywood. Is faux a french word? If it is, substitute fake and throw "faux" in the trash!!

HTH
 
Cool, that helps alot, clears up almost everything.

When I said piece of plywood for the top I meant the top of the stand (not hood) I know dummy me I didn't specify. I was just wondering if you did use that thin stuff for the top of the stand or did you use a thicker piece of plywood.
 
Oooooooooooooooooh! Yes, I used a piece of plywood, 1/2" thick. You don't need to, as long as the 2X4's and plywood are flush with no uneven spots. Or you could use 1X2 boards laid flat around the rim. Just be sure to countersink any nails or screws so they don't create a pressure point. By "no uneven spots" I don't mean absolutely dead flat, slight variations are o.k. IF you use foam or similar material to "fill in" these spots. Good luck!
 
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