Deteriorating plant condition

H

hadjici2

AC Members
Jun 24, 2005
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Hello people,

I had a healthy tank for the past one year which was growing plants very nicely. I had layers of tetra substrate under the gravel and the Vasilernia (i think thats how they are called) plants and some other plant species were groing greate. I have been in the hobby for 10 years now and through the time I have learned alot so I believe the mystery is down to the details of fertilising. The past year I did not fertilize the water column at all. Only a few times I used seachem Excel for co2. I have 8 tetras a pleco 4 cories and 5 zebra danios along with some ghost shrimp.

The plants now have wholes on their leaves, turn brown and some leafes die of the plant when they are young. I know probably its the substrate that lost all its neutrients. I changes my lights a few weeks ago so my fluorescent lamps are new. I have no algae at all in the tank. Now for a week I dosed the water column as such, according to the dosage mentioned on the bottles:
Day 1: Seachem Excel, Seachem Iron, Seachem Phosphorus, Seachem Potassium, Seachem Nitrogen, Seachem Trace elements.
Day 2: Seachem Excel
Day 3: Seachem Excel
Day 4: Seachem Excel, Seachem Iron, Seachem Phosphorus, Seachem Potassium, Seachem Nitrogen, Seachem Trace elements.
Day 5: Seachem Excel
Day 6: Seachem Excel
Day 7: Seachem Excel

No I am not sponsored by seachem I just like their products :sim:

Do you have any suggestions or comments?


Thanks...
 
Do a search on EI (estimative index) dosing. Get fertilizers from Greg Watson (Seachem is great, but are expensive and use ammonium in their N fert), and go by that. Secondly, how big is the tank? Thirdly, how much lighting is over it, and in what form (fluorescent tubes, CF spirals, PC, halide, etc..). Read up on everything that Tom Barr has written about algae, EI, and deficiencies... It'll point you in the right direction.
 
Excel is not considered a fert. It is merely a carbon source ike pressurized CO2 is. You need to dose macros and micros... Macros NPK micros all of the rest CSM+B and Fe and Mg.
I dose them on opposing days 2 times a week. Traces and macros sometimes precipitate so I do them opposing
Monday NPK
Tues Traces, Fe Mg
Wed NPK
Thurs just traces....no Fe and no Mg
check out www.barrreport.com
read a little on ferts. It will help.
You may benefit from sticking some flourish root tabs below your vals and such. It helps nutrify the substrate Change every three months or so.
 
Did you change the lighting and start fertilizing at the same time? As flourescent lights age they do change in spectrum and a suddon shift in that spectrum (new bulbs) might also be in play here. I think that is why people say you should change them every 6 months instead of keeping them until they stop working. I'm also not sure of what types of plants you are having trouble with. There are some plants that just can't handle large doses of certain macros.
 
Based on recommendations from many (including FreshNewby) I read, then ordered dry ferts from Greg Watson's site. My question is, does one simply take the formula for his 20gallon model and calculate for your tank and go? I have a 120, so his defined amounts on the day described x 6 with no need for any measurement of any kind at any point (pre, during, post)?

I have read through his description and kind of think that is the summary, but I can be a tad bit slow on this chemistry stuff. Should not have relied on that smart girl next to me so much in HS chem... :duh:

Thanks, Ted
 
When you changed lights, you got the same wattage on the new bulbs, correct?

I'd continue with your dosing schedule for another week or two and see if the plants perk up and start to put out healthy new growth. The symptoms could be the result of several deficiencies since you're seeing it on old and new leaves. If you see any algae at all, post back and let us know what kind as you may need to adjust your fertilizer.
 
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