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I would say work on your Co2 first. You want your Co2 between 15ppm-30ppm. At the beginning of the photoperiod you want no more than 30ppm and at the end of the photoperiod no less than 15ppm. Try to keep Co2 as stable as possible within that range. Next, your Nitrates are fine at 5ppm, but...

I second anonapersona's post. However, I will add that I would move absolutely everything from the 10 to the 55 - you want to transport as much of your bacteria as you can to the new tank. Think of it this way, you're moving your Pleco and his bacteria. Also, you will be tempted to go...

Dave just about covered it. I'll just hit on a few things. As Dave said most people just dose for K. Measuring is not accurate and overdosing is not a problem. And back to my earlier post on recommended nutrient levels for best plant growth and subsequently to clear up algae - K at 20ppm...

Yes, your tank is 135g - (52X30X20)/231. I don't have any experience with Phosphate reducers, however, someone that I really respect, who is a God when it comes to planted tanks uses Seachems' Purigen. Here is a link to his site: http://www.aquariaplants.com/ - lots of great info. If...

No problem. Yes, definately, if you were using a Ph buffer that will make your phosphates skyrocket. One of the hardest things to get down, is how much to feed your fish. I've learned that you can't keep dumping food in the tank for those that "seem" to not be getting any. The hungrier...

Well, first off you have 130w PC for 140g which puts you at 1wpg. You also have no Co2 injection. A low-light/low-tech tank should have at least 2wpg. You can dose with Flourish Excell for carbon, but will be expensive in the long run for a 140g tank. I really would look into setting up a...

Not to confuse, but I've read about very low-tech/low-light planted tanks doing best with 1 small water change in 6 months. And filters being cleaned once a year! I've actually seen one of the most beautiful tanks in my life - a 125 with 5 Discus. This was a heavily planted tank on this very...

I've used salt to cure fungus. Even at a small amount like .2tsp/gal along with frequent water changes (at least 30-40% weekly) will get rid of it. It takes about 2 weeks. And no the salt won't hurt the snails. Anything in the tank can take salt at higher doses (2tsp/gal) for 2 weeks and be...

Based on my problems with the 260w Coralife fixture in my other thread, I am thinking of switching over to the 520w Orbit Extreme. Now, my tank is 72" long, but I must go with a 48" hood because of my canopy. So, the sides of the tank are always going to be darker - low light plants should do...

Coralife makes a nice dual light time that that allows you to plug independantly time all three types of lights. Here is a lighting senario that is possilbe with this timer. timer one "blue" lights: 7:00am-7:00pm timer two "white" lights: 7:30am-7:30pm <dawn/dusk> "lunar" lights...

Well, I got the new light in yesterday. Tested it with my GFI before setting it on the tank and wiring it in to my timers. No problems! So after putting on the little legs, setting it on the tank, plugging into my timers, and tie wrapping everything up nice and neat, I test it again. Each...

Thanks RTR. I do have chloromines in the water. So, based on your reply, I won't worry about it. Thanks.

I've read that you should use a simple dechlorinator that just takes care of the chlorine/chloromine. Alot of trace elements that can be of benifit to plants are in tap water. Most dechlorinators on the marked have additives that remove "harmful" metals and will continue removing metals (trace...

djlen, for filtration I have a Filstar XP3 canister and two Penguin 1140 powerheads with prefilters. Sorry to make you jump from thread to thread, but I created two - one for a parts question and one for an airation(?) question - maybe I should have posted two questions in one thread.

djlen, I've got a 48" Coralife Lunar Aqualight with 4X65w PC bulbs. It came with 2 10000K and 2 Actnics - which I swapped for 2 6700ks. The tank is 72", but I had to go with a 48" hood because of the canopy. At 125 gallons, this puts me at 2+wpg at a depth of 20". There are alot of people...

A Farlowella (Twig Catfish) works wonders. Mine never stops eating and keeps my 125 relatively clean of brown algae. There are places he can't get to that still have algae on it, but I can live with it. They get around 5-7 inches, but they are as thin as a twig (pun intended) and would do...

So, RTR, I think what you're saying is "Reactor". Don't sit on the fence, give it to me straight, tell me what you think (lol). So, I think I'll go with a Reactor. Thanks guys for the input.

Thanks Alex for the input. I'm just paranoid about my fish running out of oxygen, I've always had too much airation(sp?) going on in the tank. I know that too much aggitation loses the Co2 your injecting. Looks like I'll just have to experiment. I was running two powerheads with air...

Right now I've only got about 5 plants in the 125 and I fair fish load. I'm planning to set up a pressurized C02 system and then within the next few weeks plant more heavily. I understand that in a heavily planted tank, there is plenty of oxygen available and the need for surface aggitation to...

I've got a 125 that I want to plant more heavily in (currently just a few plants). Before I do, I want to make sure that I've got a good "life support system". I've got about 2.1 wpg of pc light and was looking into pressurized Co2 to run off of a solonoid in time with my lights. As I'm...