need advice on building a canopy

With whatever wood you are going to use.

Build a band (out of wood, or whatever you use) that will fit around the outside of the tank. For a nice finished look, make sure the band will cover to the top of your water. What I try to do is make sure you cannot see the top of the water.

On the inside of the band use something like 3/4 x 3/4 x 6 inch strips staple, glued, or screwed to act as a stop. What you are trying to do is put stops inside the band so the stops will catch the top edge of the tank, to keep the band from slideing down the bottom of the tank.

on the top of the band, cut maybe a 6 or 8 inch piece to fit on the back of top of the band. This will leave you plenty of bulk to fit hinges.

Cut a lid out to fit the remaining opening of the top, use your choice of hinges (piano, continueouse, my favorite is hidden hinges).

I like to overlap the top piece (like a table top) to leave room to moulding.

Remeber to leave room in the back for anything you my use that is hang on. Also remeber to leave room in the cavity (between the tank and canopy) for lights, and a means to open the tank lids.

These instruction may be vauge to you, so if you have any questions, ask, and I will help explain the best I can.

Depending on the height of the ceiling, and how tall you want the tank to be...

We've built 4 canopies. Different tanks, different lights, ect, but the basics are such:

Use 1x6 (1x8 or 1x10, depending on the height thing) to build a frame that is slightly larger than the tank. Attach strips of 1x2 on the inside to rest the canopy on the top of the tank. You can adjust how far down the canopy will come this way. For the top, the method I like best it to have two lengths of wood that combined are the same size as the tank, plus 2.5 inches. Attach one to the back of the canopy with an even over hang all around, then use a piano hinge to attach the other piece--this one is the lid. A hole saw works nicely to make spaces for cords and such, as well ventilation. If you have a HOB filter, you can cut out an opening for it as well.

HTH

I don't have one here, but can take some tonight. We have 3 of the 4 still up and running, and will be using this method for the canopies on 2 120's.

Here are pictures of the one I made for my acrylic tank. If you use pine make sure it is clear pine not regular pine, looks better and is usually much straighter.

Click this link and look at the pictures that have canopy in them.

http://adkins.dynip.com/32g

Alex

Here are pictures of the one I made for my acrylic tank. If you use pine make sure it is clear pine not regular pine, looks better and is usually much straighter.

Click to expand...

That is why I like to use hardwoods. Oak, Walnut, Mahogany. When you buy woods like that, usually all you get is good clear wood.

Wood, measuring tape, screws/nails/dowels. If you can make your measurements in advance, Home Depot, Lowe's, and many other home improvement stores will cut the wood to size for you, otherwise, a table saw is nice but a chop saw will work, just takes more skill. For attaching the pieces, a corner jig and clamps will halp get the corners square. You can get many different kinds of attchers, but I prefer screws or dowels. The screws are easier to use, and can be sealed to avoid corrosion. Dowels require a bit more work, but provide a nicer finished product.

For wood--pine 1x? works for most pieces, you just have to spend some time picking out the wood. Sanding paper will take care of most surfaces easily. For large areas, I like either the hobbyist clear pine boards or cabinet grade plywood. Depends on if you're staining or painting as well--no point getting lovely wood if you'll be painting it.