30 Gal,FOWLR,Newbie,Help

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SaltyDog52

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Sep 13, 2009
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Hello all!
I am going shopping today for a new salt water setup.
I did some resaerch, but that was before I found this site and I am asking your help.
Here is a checklist I made to get started. Any advice would be appreciated. One day maybe going to reef....????

Tank and stand, obviously
Heater and Thermometer
Hydrometer
Crushed Coral
20 lbs Live Rock - How do you cure it?
Proper Light for Live Rock
Any additives for live rock
Power heads - but I don't know what brand??
Protein Skimmer but I don't know what size or brand? Are the easy to set up and maintain?
Instant Ocean

Anything I am missing?
How long do you leave lights on?
 

masterchef518

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Feb 6, 2006
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im a salty newb to but i would say if at all possible get fully cured rock if you cant get that where ever you get the rock from will tell you how to cure it, also i would not do crushed coral i have read some bad things about it i went with live sand i would reccomend a t5 ho light my guy told me its a good allaroun light it mimics day light and you can grow coral with it as for the protien skimmer i would say dont get one yet untill you start putting fish in. ps where do you plan on buying all this and whats instant ocean?
 

tanker

Josh Holloway--Be mine!!!
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Where you located?? I tore down my SW tank last year, may still have some stuff left.

1)Get a refractor instead od hydrometer.
2) Get cured LR if you can, if not just cure in a plastic tub or in tank.
3) PH -- I like Maxi-jets.
4) You need test kits.
5) Is it a reef or FOWLR??
6) LR does not need special light or additive.
7) A Ramora C is a good skimmer for a 30gal (PS--I still have two I can sell cheap---Depending on where you are).
 

DoctaQ

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Dec 12, 2008
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most important thing, ditch the hydrometer and get a cheapo refractometer.
SG is one of the most important things in SW its not worth the few dollars to cheapen yourself down to a hydrometer when you could lose stock for unknown reasons because you think your hydrometer is reading right
 

rdfriend

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Sep 9, 2007
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I agree om the refractometer, I've never regretted the $75 I spent on mine. Since you are starting the tank, if you can't get cured rock the uncured rock will help cycle it. I also like the maxi-jets and you can add the sure-flow mod kit which will give you best bang for your buck IMO. With fish only tanks the lighting is mainly for viewing as it's not that important for the fish so you can leave them on for your pleasure. The better the lighting, the better the coraline algae will form on the rocks givng it color and if you want to add corals and/or anemones you will need appropriate lighting. The longer you leave the lights on daily the more it will promote other, not so welcome, algae growths also. Test kit or kits for amonnia, nitrite, nitrate, calcium, carbonate hardness (kh), phosphate. Whatever you decide on the skimmer you should go for one rated for more than your actual gallons which shouldn't be a problem with a 30g tank. I use a Coralife 220 on my 125g and it has worked great about 2 years now.
 

SaltyDog52

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Sep 13, 2009
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Thanks

Thanks for all the replies. My computer locked up and couldn't get back sooner.
I did, in fact use Live Sand. The LFS talked me out of crushed coral. I also did get a refractometer.
I have 28 lbs of cured live rock along with the live sand. I bought a protein skimmer and 2 Koralia Power heads. I also bought a 50/50 bulb.
I have questions now since it has been running for several days.
How do I know when it is cycled? Some tell me I will never see ammonia or nitrite spikes because of all the rock and sand....What should I look for? I am getting a 5ppm nitrate reading. Am I cycled?
Also, I live in Virginia for the person who asked. Thanks for your help!
P.S. - Instant Ocean is the only product where I live that creates salt water. It's just salt I guess. 1/2 cup of Instant Ocean makes 1 gallon of sea water at 1022 everytime!
 
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rdfriend

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Sep 9, 2007
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Sounds like a great start! If your live rock was fully cured you will probably not get an actual cycle which comes from decaying matter. Your best bet would be to add a raw shrimp in pantyhose or some fine mesh bag weighted to the sand. As it decays and creates ammonia the cycle will begin. The ammonia will go up and then back down as nitrites are formed and rise. Then as they go back down nitrates will rise. When you have zero ammonia and trites your cycle is done but your trates will probably be high, in the 20 to 40 ppm range. Do a 50% water change and your ready for fish. Even with the rock and sand you should see the levels rise and fall. A true cycle never really happens in a few days.
 

SaltyDog52

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Sep 13, 2009
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Sounds like a great start! If your live rock was fully cured you will probably not get an actual cycle which comes from decaying matter. Your best bet would be to add a raw shrimp in pantyhose or some fine mesh bag weighted to the sand. As it decays and creates ammonia the cycle will begin. The ammonia will go up and then back down as nitrites are formed and rise. Then as they go back down nitrates will rise. When you have zero ammonia and trites your cycle is done but your trates will probably be high, in the 20 to 40 ppm range. Do a 50% water change and your ready for fish. Even with the rock and sand you should see the levels rise and fall. A true cycle never really happens in a few days.
OK, thanks!
That's actually what I used to do when cycling fresh water tanks. I didn't know it worked the same.
Have a great day. I'll take some pics when things get going!
 
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