Introduction + tank specs

Hi, welcome to the greatest hobby on earth!
You could try posting plant-specific questions in the 'planted' section, there are people there who know A LOT about plants, CO2, lighting, etc. and can probably tell you what you need to know about fertilizing and whether or not that package is a good deal.
You sound like you're really doing your homework, which will save you many headaches in the long run. I strongly suggest you do a 'fishless cycle' (there's loads of info here on AC about exactly how - basically breaking in your tank and growing the necessary filter bacteria by adding a source of ammonia to the tank for a few weeks without using fish to cycle the tank) to start up your tank. You will need a source of ammonia to get the nitrogen cycle started, but you're definitely on the right track when you say you're going to run the tank without fish for a few weeks.
Driftwood I have experience with, so while I can't answer all your plant questions I can tell you this: it's safest to get your driftwood/bogwood at an aquarium store. You'll need to soak it for a while, changing the water often, until it's leached out some of the tannins and taken on some water, and I usually give mine a good scrub using aquarium salt as an abrasive just to get the little bits and dirt off the outside. Rinse it thoroughly before you put it in the tank, and watch the water chemistry for the first little while - some DW releases enough tannins to lower the pH even after you've soaked it for a week or more. If your water turns tea-coloured from tannins it won't harm the fish or plants (it's actually good for many fish that come from blackwater environments) but if you find it unsightly you can use carbon to filter the colour out.
A couple things I consider 'must-haves' are:
- a net. You never know when you're going to have to catch a sick fish, and when you bring new fish home it's best to pour their water out into a bucket and then throw it away, catching the fish in a net, and add just the fish without their travel water to your tank.
- water conditioner (to dechlorinate your tap water),
- a Python (hose that attaches to your sink, makes water changes a breeze, worth its weight in gold IMHO)
- a 'fish-only' bucket - one that you've never used for anything but aquarium use. Big Al's sells buckets with lids and nets and possibly other things inside as a kit for about $5
- Many of us quarantine new fish, so a small tank with basic heater, filter, cover is a good idea. You don't have to use gravel or a light or decorations if you don't want to, but isolating new fish for a couple weeks can prevent them bringing disease into your show tank.
- Lastly, I always keep aquarium salt and carbon on hand. Salt is useful for treating a lot of conditions, and some fish just like the addition of some salt to their water. It's great for cleaning off decorations (I use it as an abrasive) as well. Carbon is great for removing any colouration that's built up in the water (from driftwood for example), and if you ever need to add medicine to the tank carbon is useful for removing all traces of medicine when treatment is over.
Hope that answers some of your questions

I can offer a little opinion, hoepfully someone else can chime in with some additional info.

IMO, Pecto is a definate No-No. Try to find a local independent store if possible. If not, petsmart would be acceptable for equipment, just be careful if you decide to buy any live fish from them. Check that all the fish look healthy and there aren't any diseased/belly-up's floating around in the tanks.

If you can't find driftwood at a local store, you can order online from Dr's Foster & Smith. Up side is that it's usually good quality wood that is ready to go for your tank. Down side is that you can select the size range of the wood, but you can't select a particlular shape or find that one outstanding piece for your aquascape. I'd be careful about pulling wood from the wild since you don't know what kind of stuff it has been soaking in that will be introduced to your tank. You can prep wild wood by soaking it in water and maybe a light bleach solution, but still you never know.

Welcome to the board!!!
Just some additional thoughts/ cautions. If you do a fishless cycle as blinky suggested, don't add the plants until the end. The plants will consume a lot of your ammonia, and if you have light+ high ammonia, you will get lots of algea very quickly. You can do a "silent cycle" as well if your intentions are a heavily planted tank.since plants like ammonia so well, just start your plants, give them a few days to a week to get going well. once they are growing and healthy start adding fish a few at a time. the plants will consume the ammonia and keep your fish happy. As long as you don't add more fish (ammonia) than the plants can handle you won't get spikes or other problems associated with fishy cycling.

There are several sources for driftwood I collect a lot of mine, you want actual driftwood washed up on the beach, never anyhing off of the forest floor. the leaching that takes place while the wood is floating around is vital. In addition you will want to soak boil and or bleach it as mentioned. if you use bleach, remember that wood is pourous, and you will want to soak it after the bleach bath for several days to dillute and dissipate any chlorine it soaked up. I also buy some at the LFS. I haven't ordered any on line, bu5t I do know that Floridadriftwood.com will ship the exact peice you look at on the website so other than actual size you know what you are getting. they have several varieties, and also sell planted driftwood with java moss, java fern and or anubias already attached.

As far as the plant choices and ferts, I'm still learning so I'll defer that to the experts.
Dave

Welcome aboard!

If you are thinking you want a different filter, get it now. Swapping out filters can be difficult, simply because media for one does not always work in another model. Since most of the bacteria colonize filter media, this means you can't just take the old filter off and put the new one on. You have to either run them both for some time, or figure out a way to make the old media fit into the new filter.

You'll want to consider upgrading the lighting, if you are serious about wanting a planted tank with a huge variety of plants. While some of the plants in the starter kit will be appropriate, some won't thrive in a tall tank like a 29 without providing more light--somewhere around 3-5 watts is considered average. A few will live in the low light setup--crypts, and possibly the swords, but sag and many bunch plants will not. Java ferns and anubias would be better choices.

I would not begin fertilizing just yet--there's a lot of work and care involved in fertilizing. Adding ferts without knowing your current water conditions is setting yourself up for a serious algae bloom--so take it slow! If you go with the lower light plants, fertilizing might not even be needed.

"Aquarium salt" is not needed. Salt can be a useful medication, but table salt will work just as well. Fish that are rumored to 'like' salt in the tank are often brackish, or prefer hard water--adding aquarium salt will not meet their needs. Adding anything to the tank should be done with caution, and an understanding of what you are adding and what outcome you want; adding aquarium salt (with no list of ingredients) 'just because' is a poor practice, IMO.

What kind of sand do you have? If it says it is anything other than silica (aragonite is the other common option), you may not want to use it--aragonite based sands will alter the chemistry of your water in the opposite direction of most tropical fish (African cichlids are the notable exception).The sand can be added as is, or it can be rinsed. You'll likely have some clouding, on the initial fill, but this will settle quickly. You can modify the sand with mulm, fertilizing substrates like laterite, or just use it plain--a lot will depend on what plants and fish you want.

With the DIY CO2, you will want to get a KH test kit--the all in one does not give you KH or GH values.

For cycling--since you want a planted tank, fishless cycling won't be your best bet. Instead, getting the plants well established and then gradually adding 1-3 fish per week over the next few months will be better, and reduce the odds of an algae bloom. Go slowly--both in fertilizing and adding fish, and you will be much happier.