Newbie with 75 Gal planted tank needs help

R

runbrentrun

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Sep 16, 2006
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Hi, I'm new to the forum and I need your help. I have a 75 gal half circle aquarium that is 24 inches deep. I would like to make it a planted tank and I have a good florabase substrate, (2) 65 watt Power compact lamps (one 6,700K and the other is a 50/50), Fluval 405 Canister Filter, (2) Powerheads.
Fish: (6) Neon Tetras, (3) Large Clown Loaches, (3) Otto Cats, (1) Rainbow, (1) Cory, (1) Tiger Pleco.
Water chemistry is pH 6.5, 0 ppm Ammonia, 0 ppm Nitrites, 10 ppm Nitrates. I do a 25% water change about every 3-4 weeks with RO Water and using Kent's RO right to re-add the minerals.
I have read the Fertilizer Recommendations & Info - the Informal FAQ Link at http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12585 and I have been able to locate the following: Flourish, Spectracide Stump Remover, Fleet Enema, NuSalt, Epsom Salt, Flourish root tabs.
I had to order the Flourish excel, and I don't have a CO2 system
The Questions that I have are:
1. Do I have the right light and enough light
2. My local water supply has the following characteristics: Alkalinity 107, Hardness 231, Magnesium 23, pH 8.1, Potassium 4.3, Sodium 82. Should I not use the RO Water and use my local water supply? Should I use my Python and just make the change and add de-chlorinator? If so how much, how often?
3. Do I need a CO2 system? If so, can you recomend a good troublefree system. I would rather spend a little extra if it will work better/last longer. What about the Red Sea complete Pro CO2 system that takes paintball CO2 cartriges. Has anybody tried this?
4. How do I mix up and store the "homemade" fertilizers? What do you use?
5. What else do I need? Phosphate or Iron test kit?
Thanks in advance
 
first of all, ditch the 50/50 lamp and get another matching 6700. Your plant will do better. no need for actinics in a freshwater unless you like the look of it. I have about the same light over a 75 and thats good for low - medium light plants. attach some big clumps of java fern to driftwood and get some moss balls and java moss. maybe some anarchis and Amazon sword too. you should be fine with flourish excel but dosing will get expensive cause you will go through the bottle quickly in a 75. Thats why people will recommend DIY CO2 or pressurized. You dont need it with that light level but you will see a difference.

Change your water more frequently, especially for the rainbows, neons, and loaches which like very clean water. Change it once a week. I just got a python and its wonderful, no more heavy buckets. if you dont want to pay like 60-70 bucks for a 50 footer, go online and print out bigals which is like 39.99. bring it to petsmart. they will match the price.

Test your local water's ph and ammonia right from the tap. also test the GH/KH to see what your buffering capacity is. i wouldnt use RO water because i have heard bad things about lack of buffering with it.
 
i'd get rid of the loaches and add more rainbows and corys ....

They are schooling fish that need a small shoal to be happy.

Loaches get reaaaaaaallly big too
 
Good idea with the plants, I was looking at ordering the Aqua Bontanic "hard to kill" plant package which includes many of the same plants you suggest.
I will ditch the 50/50 lamp and get another 6,700k. My LFS talked me into the 50/50.
I tested my local water's pH (about 8.0) and ammonia (0.75 ppm) right from the tap, but do they make a GH/KH test? My city says that the hardness is 231 ppm and alkalinity is 127 ppm.
Also, with the Python, do you just suck some of the water out, and then replace with tap water straight into the tank and then add de-chlorinator/ammonia remover? How much do you think I should change each week?
 
I plan to get some more rainbows and at least 2 more corys once the plants get set. My wife would kill me if I got rid of the clown loaches. They are her favorites, and yes they are reaaaaaaaallly big. Almost 5 inches.
 
Typically speaking a 10-20% water change every week is about normal. If you can't find one locally look to bigalsonline.com for a GH/KH test. Other websights will also carry them also. Keep in mind that the city you live in didn't test the water comming out of your tap only the water leaving their facility. That is to say as the water travels through the cities pipes and then thru your pipes the parameters can easily change. Oh forgot to say I generally add Prime to my tank as I'm filling it with new water. I use the dose recommended for a full tank.
 
runbrentrun said:
Good idea with the plants, I was looking at ordering the Aqua Bontanic "hard to kill" plant package which includes many of the same plants you suggest.
I will ditch the 50/50 lamp and get another 6,700k. My LFS talked me into the 50/50.
I tested my local water's pH (about 8.0) and ammonia (0.75 ppm) right from the tap, but do they make a GH/KH test? My city says that the hardness is 231 ppm and alkalinity is 127 ppm.
Also, with the Python, do you just suck some of the water out, and then replace with tap water straight into the tank and then add de-chlorinator/ammonia remover? How much do you think I should change each week?
Click to expand...

Yes use Prime as your water conditioner, its concentrated and is considered to be the best on the market. For your 75 use a capful and a half, enough to treat the whole tank even for smaller water changes. First suck out the water with the Python then add the Prime, then refill. Simple. You'll figure it out its easy. I change about 40-50% each week.

Also, the loaches will be fine, they get bigger but they grow slowly. If you want to keep them forever you might need a bigger tank in maybe 4-5 years. They rarely get above 8 inches and a 75 is fine to house them.
 
Ok, so lets say that I change 25% to 40% of my water using tap water, my python and Prime. My tap water is pH 8.1 and my tank is pH 6.5. Most of my fish prefer the more acidic water. Is this going to be a problem?
If I add a CO2 system will this help with the pH?
 
runbrentrun said:
Ok, so lets say that I change 25% to 40% of my water using tap water, my python and Prime. My tap water is pH 8.1 and my tank is pH 6.5. Most of my fish prefer the more acidic water. Is this going to be a problem?
If I add a CO2 system will this help with the pH?
Click to expand...
OK....well there is a lot to cover here.
Your pH will have no adverse affects on the fish. make sure you dump the Prime in the water before returning water form your tap, and make sure the temp is relatively similar to your tank water. Chloramine and Chlorine from water will adversely affect your fish, pH will not.
I will always advocate pressurized CO2 for any planted tank. You cannot lose....your plants wil grow and you will not have a problem with algae. I cannot say enough to just buckle down, get something like the Milwaukee all in one, solenoid/check valve/bubble counter...etc and go to your local beer and soda supplier ot fire extinguisher filler and put a deposit down on a 10lb canister. You will then have to pay 20 bucks every 5-6 months. I think a small price to pay for the headache you will avoid.
Also, go get yourself a KH GH test kit, maybe 2 different types and run it on your tap, then your tank. Depending on your substrate and hardscape they may be two different things, and this is an important variable in the equation to know where your CO2 ppm should be and your pH should be kept to maintain that level. Also...your ferts....there is a much cheaper and affective way to dose macros and micros. www.gregwatson.com is the cheapest I have found and you can dose them dry right in your tank. You can read up more on ferts at www.barrreport.com He is a friend of mine and a genius in aquatic plants. He will never say anything that has not been tested, proven and reproduced.
 
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