Aeration in a planted tank at night.
- Thread starter Hank
- Start date
I personally had less fluctuation in pH/[CO2] when CO2 was appropriately injected during lighted hours. More/higher pH fluctuation without CO2 injection in Dutch Aq.
I kept pH/[CO2] pretty much constant day and night (CO2 inject during most lighted hours of course) with sporatic aeration (duration and frequency as needed per specific tank) as per tank during night in a tanks that were heavily stocked .
Perhaps one may be injecting too much and wasting CO2 if there were that much flutuations in pH/[CO2].
And most importantly, such condition maybe not yield the optimal conditions for all inhabitants.
Finding right balance is the key and this balance maybe different as per tank.
One should find right balance for his/her own individual tank for optimal results, that is including fish.
I kept pH/[CO2] pretty much constant day and night (CO2 inject during most lighted hours of course) with sporatic aeration (duration and frequency as needed per specific tank) as per tank during night in a tanks that were heavily stocked .
Perhaps one may be injecting too much and wasting CO2 if there were that much flutuations in pH/[CO2].
And most importantly, such condition maybe not yield the optimal conditions for all inhabitants.
Finding right balance is the key and this balance maybe different as per tank.
One should find right balance for his/her own individual tank for optimal results, that is including fish.
Actually waiting for Mr. PlantBrain's reply in hopes of learning something new! Hopefully he responds!
I wasn't going to dignify this post but I know this will annoy you, maybe just a little...
My question was very simple. Would fluctuation of pH cause a problem. The first two paragraphs are about you. The third paragraph only means that you didn't understand my post. I don't have pH fluctuation!
Now you want to discuss a balance aquarium, how about another time?
I don't know what you have against Tom Barr but I know who he is! Just Google him.
Hakuna matata!
Fortuantely or should I say unfortunately, I dont get annoyed, especially over fish thats out of my reach, not that I want to when keepers dont want me to
. .I dont know where you got the notion that I dislike anyone in the forum? If I dont agree/share same thoughts, it automatically = dislike??
Whether he does or not, it's not the end of the world as all I wanted was opinions/tips from such reputable person in the industry but not a must.
Comprehend what i wrote, all are related to to your topic. Perhaps you dont agree but as with any others forums, hoping someone, even one, may/will comprehend & utilize what I given or take it into consideration in one's tank.
Play nice kids. It's off topic not to.
Many assume that pH change is detrimental, which may be true in systems lacking algae/plants.......
But in natural systems, pH can change 2 full units in marine systems(can you think of some??) and up to 4 full units, 6 up to a pH of 10 in freshwater, but 2 units is typically more common, and both spots have nice lush plants and fish populations.
If you do a large water change, a full unit of change will occur in say 5 minutes or less depending how fast you refill the tank.
Fish are always happy, week after week, year after year, breed etc. I do not use aeration at night, one more thing to add and noise/spray of the water causing lime deposits etc.
Does not hurt otherwise.
Seems simpler to just increase current at the surface and then you have good O2 24/7 instead of just at night.
CO2 can be adjusted with a good valve regardless of the small difference degassing rate, eg:
Ideal valve 1/8th vernier micrometer handle
V 52-4-12
A tad $$ but well worth it.
Excellent(the best) USA made precision made valve. The micrometer handle makes adjustments VERY easy.
Why? Because you can adjust it per tick mark slow and progressively and watch the fish/plants/algae for responses to CO2.
The dose is changed with the valve.
This way it is relative to the fish, the plants and the algae, not pH, not KH or other methods.
After you slowly dial this CO2 "rate" in for optimal results...........then you can go back and use a method to measure what this rate is and the pH etc.
This is a simple method and requires some patience, and slow stready adjustments.
You estimate the rate at a gross level, then dail it in precisely and tweak from there, being careful to observe fish, never change the CO2 dosing rapidly, or adjust i much and then leave for the rest of the day. Do this when you are going to be around to watch the tank closely.
A good valve, good check valve, good regulator etc, and a good diffusion method will go a long way, but.........so will some decent surface current, and will make dosing CO2 MUCH EASIER without gassing your fish.
Gassing the fish involves CO2 and O2 ratio, not one, but both gases need to be considered, not just CO2 etc. Spend your time focusing on CO2, using less , not mor elight intensity, this will help everyone a lot more than personal squabbles.
Many assume that pH change is detrimental, which may be true in systems lacking algae/plants.......
But in natural systems, pH can change 2 full units in marine systems(can you think of some??) and up to 4 full units, 6 up to a pH of 10 in freshwater, but 2 units is typically more common, and both spots have nice lush plants and fish populations.
If you do a large water change, a full unit of change will occur in say 5 minutes or less depending how fast you refill the tank.
Fish are always happy, week after week, year after year, breed etc. I do not use aeration at night, one more thing to add and noise/spray of the water causing lime deposits etc.
Does not hurt otherwise.
Seems simpler to just increase current at the surface and then you have good O2 24/7 instead of just at night.
CO2 can be adjusted with a good valve regardless of the small difference degassing rate, eg:
Ideal valve 1/8th vernier micrometer handle
V 52-4-12
A tad $$ but well worth it.
Excellent(the best) USA made precision made valve. The micrometer handle makes adjustments VERY easy.
Why? Because you can adjust it per tick mark slow and progressively and watch the fish/plants/algae for responses to CO2.
The dose is changed with the valve.
This way it is relative to the fish, the plants and the algae, not pH, not KH or other methods.
After you slowly dial this CO2 "rate" in for optimal results...........then you can go back and use a method to measure what this rate is and the pH etc.
This is a simple method and requires some patience, and slow stready adjustments.
You estimate the rate at a gross level, then dail it in precisely and tweak from there, being careful to observe fish, never change the CO2 dosing rapidly, or adjust i much and then leave for the rest of the day. Do this when you are going to be around to watch the tank closely.
A good valve, good check valve, good regulator etc, and a good diffusion method will go a long way, but.........so will some decent surface current, and will make dosing CO2 MUCH EASIER without gassing your fish.
Gassing the fish involves CO2 and O2 ratio, not one, but both gases need to be considered, not just CO2 etc. Spend your time focusing on CO2, using less , not mor elight intensity, this will help everyone a lot more than personal squabbles.
Thx for your time! Although you may have partially responded, I was anticipating more detailed and professional evaluation of my thoughts/practices as I was waiting for even harsh criticisms, if any (best way to learn and most importantly, to REMEMBER according to some of my mentors). Perhaps some other time in some other forum!
btw, "pH can change 2 full units in marine systems(can you think of some??)"
A homework?? Too old for a HW:
Although have some idea, maybe in diff time table/cycle but cant make a firm grip! Perhaps you can shed some light if and when possible.
Thx in adv.
btw, "pH can change 2 full units in marine systems(can you think of some??)"
A homework?? Too old for a HW
:Although have some idea, maybe in diff time table/cycle but cant make a firm grip! Perhaps you can shed some light if and when possible.
Thx in adv.
Hint for the marine part:
Where might there be easy to observe marine life, high plant/macro algae density, fish, inverts etc is a temporarily closed system 2X a day?
pH goes from about 8 to 10 or a tad over that sometimes.
Shallow FW ponds with thick weed growth, low alkalinity will easily move 2 or more units of pH.
Where might there be easy to observe marine life, high plant/macro algae density, fish, inverts etc is a temporarily closed system 2X a day?
pH goes from about 8 to 10 or a tad over that sometimes.
Shallow FW ponds with thick weed growth, low alkalinity will easily move 2 or more units of pH.
