The plant in the first link is a red Cabomba (Amanda will know the species, I think it may be C. palaeformis). Red leaf plants are red because they reflect red light, and red light is essential to photosynthesis, thus there usually has to be more intense light for red plants. However, some sources suggest that this Cabomba will manage in moderate light (obviously willin high light). But it might not be worth it.
The second link is the Windelov form of Java Fern,
Microsorum pteropus "Windelov." This is a low-light species so should do well for you when you get the light I suggested in my last post. It can attract brush algae in direct light, so some floating plants works well here.
The third link is another red plant, the stem plant
Alternanthera reineckii, which requires bright light. It will simply "melt" in your situation.
The fourth is another shade plant,
Anubias nana, so a good choice. Like the Java Fern, best in shade to avoid brush algae. BTW, both JF and Anubias must be attached to wood or rock, not planted in the substrate; if buried the rhizome may rot. These are ideal plants as they can be attached to wood or rock and placed wherever.
Your swords will manage fine with the JF and Anubias under the better light I suggested previously. I have these plants together. Another good option is the pygmy chain sword. Crypts too, though they can be fussy and to get you well established I would wait for these until later.
Floating plants are beneficial, as noted above. Brazilian Pennywort is a stem plant that does very well left floating; it is not too thick (if you trim it regularly during the water change) so it is easy to control, but provides some "cover" which fish prefer and will suit the JF and Anubias.
Byron.
