To clarify,
Perhaps I should have said, I don't agree with getting a fish just to sort a problem, unless you were planning on getting it anyway.
The rest I stand by.
I was referring to Labroides dimidiatus. I know some can survive in captivity, I should do, I've had mine for 3 years, but I bought mine before doing any research into them, and since reading in various books and websites that they are best left in the wild, is the reason why I won't get another.
You are right Ace - to a point. I shouldn't have generalised, and yes in my recent habit of using scientific names I should have been more specific. But
Labroides dimidiatus
" bicolor
" pectoralis
" phthirophagus
" rubrolaciatus
Labropsis alleni
Larabicus quadrillineatus
are all classed as "cleaner wrasses" from all that I've read, and all are classed as having a poor survival rate in captivity. I'm afraid , in my ignorance, they are the only "cleaner wrasses" I know of.
So back to my original statement, I still think they are better left off in the wild. We are able to find alternative treatments for the fishes in our tanks, unfortunately, the fishes in the wild need them more than us.
And so everyone can make up their own minds, here's the whole article that Ace25 is referring to:
The cleaner wrasse genus
Labroides is comprised of five very species that rely almost entirely on cleaning to obtain nutrients as both juveniles and adults. Cleaning behavior is defined as a mutualistic relationship that exists between certain parasite-picking fishes and their piscine neighbors (the client or host species). The cleaner wrasse removes parasites, and also some slime and scales, from the client fish. This benefit to the client is that it hosts fewer annoying parasites.
Although the cleaner wrasses vary somewhat in their aquarium suitability, most members of this genus are considered difficult to maintain long-term in the home aquarium. There may be one exception to this – it is the bluestreak cleaner wrasse (
Labroides dimidiatus). Although we have long considered it difficult to keep this species in North America, unless it was held with numerous fishes on which to “graze,” the Europeans consider it a good beginners fish! It is so popular there, that in 2002 it was one of the top ten species exported to the European Union. The Europeans report some encouraging longevity records. For example, the Nancy Aquarium, France has kept
L. dimidiatus for over 11 years, while a lifespan of over six years has been reported to me by several European reef-keepers.
The biggest problem with the
Labroides involves feeding. With the possible exception of
L. dimidiatus, most species reject captive fare. As a result, they rely totally on the ectoparasites and slime present on their fish tankmates to meet their nutritional needs. This may not be as big of a problem if you have a large tank that has lots of potential clients, the cleaner wrasse may be able to acquire enough nutrients by grazing slime, and the occasional parasite. But if there is relatively little grazing surface (i.e., fish bodies), then the cleaner will not get enough food to stay alive. Not all potential hosts are as valuable a food source as others (that is, those species that produce more slime are more desirable). Therefore, the types of fishes you keep the cleaner with may impact its chances of survival as well. Those species of cleaner wrasses (e.g.,
L. phthirophagus) that rely heavily on fish slime as a nutrient source, will usually perish in quick order in most home aquariums. There is an occasional cleaner wrasse (usually individual
L. dimidiatus) that will accept foods like finely chopped shrimp, mysid shrimp, frozen brine, freeze-dried tubifex worms, or even frozen prepared foods, and flake foods. One way to induce a finicky cleaner to feed is to present them with a live or fresh mussel that has had the valves forced open so that they can pick at the “meat” within.
Cleaner Wrasse Pros and Cons
Unfortunately for the aquarist, cleaner wrasses do not consume the most problematic aquarium parasites - the protozoa and dinoflagellates. Therefore, cleaners are not recommended as a means of biological control of for ich (
Cryptocaryon irritans) or velvet (
Amyloodinium ocellatum) outbreaks. But cleaner wrasses will control another group of parasites that frequently infect our fishes. It has been shown that the cleaning behavior of the bluestreak cleaner wrasse can reduce the number of the monogenetic flatworms (
Benedenia lolo) in aquarium-held fishes. (Food choice studies have shown that when given a choice of four different foods [mucus, parasitic monogenean flatworms, gnathiid isopods, and a control] the bluestreak cleaner wrasse fed more on mucus and monogeneans.) While the L. dimidiatus did not eliminate all of the flatworms, they did help keep their numbers in check. There is also evidence that indicates these wrasses will pick off the cyst-phase of the flatworm (
Paravortex sp.), which is commonly referred to as black ich (a.k.a. yellow tang disease). As a result, the Labroides spp. may also aid in controlling the outbreak of this ectoparasite in a closed system. Finally, bluestreak cleaner wrasse will remove the cauliflower-like growths associated with the viral infection
Lymphocystis.
But adding a cleaner wrasse to a tank of fishes also has a downside. There are some “costs” associated with visiting a cleaner wrasse. The
Labroides feed on host mucus, scales, and skin, especially when ectoparasites are in short supply. Because most of the parasites on the cleaners bill-of-fare are in short supply in the home aquarium, the captive
Labroides will ingest larger quantities of fish slime and scales in order to survive. Because of a loss of its external protection, a “captive client” is likely to be more susceptible to bacterial infections and infections by protozoa and dinoflagellate parasites. It is only logical that a cleaner is going to be more of a menace in a smaller tank that contains fewer potential clients to feed off of. Therefore, if you are going to keep a
Labroides, it would be wise to house it in a larger tank with a relatively large fish community. In a large tank it will also be easier for potential clients to avoid the attentions of a cleaner wrasse.
A client fish that gets nipped by a cheating
Labroides may retaliate by chasing it off. This behavior is commonly seen in the aquarium and can be problematic for the cleaner, as certain tankmates may persistently attack it anytime it comes near. On rare occasions, a exasperated fish may turn on the cleaner and kill it. For example, triggerfishes have been known to dispatch an annoying cleaner wrasse. On the other hand, Labroides will sometimes hound less maneuverable species, like puffers, trunkfishes, and porcupinefishes, causing them great duress. This pestering may even elicit an
Ostracion trunkfish to emit its deadly toxins and wipe out a whole captive community. A confused cleaner might persistently attempt to nip at and chase fishes with small spots. In some cases, it appears that the cleaner is attempting to feed on the “parasite-like” markings.
Copyright (2008) Scott W. Michael
As you can see, that article was written by Scott Michael (found
here) who has also written
A PocketExpert guide to marine fishes in which he states (on page 299):
...However, even this species will fare poorly unless kept with a large community of fishes from which it can browse mucus and parasites. This species is more likely to accept substitute foods, although not with gusto. In general, MOST AQUARIST ARE WELL ADVISED TO AVOID CLEANER WRASSES, both because they have low survival rates in captivity and because their removal from the reef may deprive wild populations of valuable parasite-cleaning services.