Building My LED Light
- Thread starter traelman
- Start date
Yea 10000p, I got your pm, and you are right, 10w out of one little LED is huge amount of light. I looked at some of the other specs for that LED and they seem to be pretty good. Did you see the size of the heat sink it came with(HUGE), that baby puts out some heat!!!. Thanks again for the info.
Maybe I'll have time to do a post with my ideas for design and eqipment today. I'm getting more excited about it every day. It's almost time to move from planning to actual DIYing.
Maybe I'll have time to do a post with my ideas for design and eqipment today. I'm getting more excited about it every day. It's almost time to move from planning to actual DIYing.
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: ) the light produces alot of light in the green section, which is good to plants and the rest is okay for cool lighting for fish, if you want it bluer just get get some blue LEDs, anyway, I'm thinking you may need to but an LED driver from them, maybe not but IDK
It's actually at the max that my current driver can supply(LOL PCU)
It's actually at the max that my current driver can supply(LOL PCU)
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I do plan on having some type of "driver" circuit for this project, I just haven't decided what type yet. It seems there are numerous and varied ways to do this also, almost as many as there are different type LEDs available. Right now I'm doing my research on that subject. In other news I think I may have decided on the LEDs themselves.
They are L2K2-MW14-11-BV00. These are based on the Philips Luxeon K2 emitter. Just for some info, these were tested at 1000mA, resulting in 120 lums. This would give me a total of 720 lums(6x120) and 20.4W of 6500k cool white light (not including the blue and red LEDs I plan on adding). When I have some more time I'll try and explain my choices and give my veiw on LEDs and how they can used in the aquarium world.
Later............
They are L2K2-MW14-11-BV00. These are based on the Philips Luxeon K2 emitter. Just for some info, these were tested at 1000mA, resulting in 120 lums. This would give me a total of 720 lums(6x120) and 20.4W of 6500k cool white light (not including the blue and red LEDs I plan on adding). When I have some more time I'll try and explain my choices and give my veiw on LEDs and how they can used in the aquarium world.
Later............
Ya know, a $20 computer power supply would probably work better, Although I wouldn't trust it with a computer, it should handle LEDs quite easily, and be cheaper than buying who knows how many of these special "drivers". Using the 12v supply would be best, It should be able to handle the current, and should be able to supply enough volts to the LED to be able to string a couple in series, with maybe a resistor.
Now using Ohms law, say the voltage requirement was 3.5 volts, and current being 1000mA or 1A, stringing three in series, 3.5 volts times 3 = 10.5, which means 1.5 volts would need to be dropped at the resistor. Now since Ohms Law states E=IxR (where E=Voltage, I=Current (amps) and R=Resistance) and 1Amp is flowing through the circuit, divide voltage, by current (1.5/1) and you would need a resistor of 1.5 ohms. Now granted one doesn't exist, you would use a 2 ohm, or a 1 ohm resistor, depending if you want it slightly dim and extend the life, or overdrive and shorten life a lil. Now this is assuming voltage is 3.5v, and not higher like 4 or five or something like that. Just remember, when wiring LEDs in series, voltage drops along each LED, so if you had a voltage source of 12 volts, and the LED called for 3v each, you could only have 4 in series, but I would drop it to 3 and add a resistor, to help regulate current and voltage a little.
Now using Ohms law, say the voltage requirement was 3.5 volts, and current being 1000mA or 1A, stringing three in series, 3.5 volts times 3 = 10.5, which means 1.5 volts would need to be dropped at the resistor. Now since Ohms Law states E=IxR (where E=Voltage, I=Current (amps) and R=Resistance) and 1Amp is flowing through the circuit, divide voltage, by current (1.5/1) and you would need a resistor of 1.5 ohms. Now granted one doesn't exist, you would use a 2 ohm, or a 1 ohm resistor, depending if you want it slightly dim and extend the life, or overdrive and shorten life a lil. Now this is assuming voltage is 3.5v, and not higher like 4 or five or something like that. Just remember, when wiring LEDs in series, voltage drops along each LED, so if you had a voltage source of 12 volts, and the LED called for 3v each, you could only have 4 in series, but I would drop it to 3 and add a resistor, to help regulate current and voltage a little.
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if you really want a diagram of one that you can etch your self, make me an inquiry. I'll do it sooner or later, just PM me so I see a purpose to do so.
Alright!!!
I have finally made the purchase of my LEDs. These are not the ones that I mentioned in an earlier post though, but they kick a## any way. Say hello to the Endor Rebel - Cool White, Emitter. This is based on the Philips Luxeon Rebel.
I picked up 6 of them for around $40. At there tested rating they will produce 145 lums each. With the 6, that will give me a total of 870 lums. by my calculations the power comsumption will be around 13.23 watts.
Sweeeeet..........
I'm coming up on my summer vacation soon, so hopefully I can finish with the rest of my planning and finally shed light on this project:grinyes:.
I have finally made the purchase of my LEDs. These are not the ones that I mentioned in an earlier post though, but they kick a## any way. Say hello to the Endor Rebel - Cool White, Emitter. This is based on the Philips Luxeon Rebel.
I picked up 6 of them for around $40. At there tested rating they will produce 145 lums each. With the 6, that will give me a total of 870 lums. by my calculations the power comsumption will be around 13.23 watts.
Sweeeeet..........
I'm coming up on my summer vacation soon, so hopefully I can finish with the rest of my planning and finally shed light on this project:grinyes:.
The max continuous current rating is how much "juice" you are applying to the led.
LEDs work off current (Amps), while other type lights use voltage, which converts to a Wattage rating.
You can have the light on as long as you want, as long as it's not over 350mA. These type LEDs have a life of over 50,000 hours if used properly.
LEDs work off current (Amps), while other type lights use voltage, which converts to a Wattage rating.
You can have the light on as long as you want, as long as it's not over 350mA. These type LEDs have a life of over 50,000 hours if used properly.
