Your tank is conducting a perfect cycling, and in very good time! As has been said, once you see the nitrItes drop to 0, dose it once more with ammonia to make sure it can handle converting it all in a single day, then do your big water change and add your fish.
Justin,
Once your cycle and last water change is completed, you should add the mineral salts before the fish go in. For a 200L tank the initial dose would be approximately
10 teaspoons marine salt mix
10 teaspoons baking soda
10 tablespoons epsom salt
After that you need to add back whatever volume is taken out through water changes, and this is the most economical method. You can also premix the ingredients in a container for convenience. Good luck, and looking forward to seeing your beautiful p. saulosi!
A stable PH and hardness are much more important than adding a salt mix, so you don't by any means, HAVE to do this.
That being said, african cichlids do enjoy nice hard water with a high PH. If you go this route, I don't recommend adding it all at once before adding fish. If the fish are coming from a standard tap water atmosphere (which a majority of store bought/farmed freshwater fish do), the huge instant change in water conditions could be quite a shock to their systems. (This is more a helpful disclaimer than anything else, as I hear about PH shock often, but have never personally experienced any problems using the "plop" method of just sticking them in the different water without any fanfare. I find that temperature however does need to match within a few degrees or you can run into problems. In other words, "plop at your own risk")
The actual calculation for how much of each ingredient in this mix to use is actually based on your tap water specifically, and how much it needs to change to reach your target water specs. There isn't actually a one size fits all formula. If you go this route, I recommend slowly advancing to the dosages Jannika recommended at first (it is a good base guideline recipe), monitoring your levels closely, and adjusting ingredient levels accordingly with each water change, to eventually find the golden mixture that gives you the PH, KH & GH levels you're looking for.
I did this in my Lake Malawi cichlid tank, and nearly overnight they began coloring up more, and now it's to a point where I can't even get them to stop spawning!
I spent around $20, and bought enough ingredients mix up a 3 gallon bucket worth of my homemade salt/buffer mix, with lots of marine salt to spare which will of course be used in my next few mixes as time goes on. I use 1 1/2 cup of mix during each weekly 50% water change, so it will last me roughly 32 weeks. But that's on my 150g (~568L) tank. On your 200L tank with the same percentage/frequency of water changes, 3 gallons would last you roughly 85 weeks (exact calculation would vary depending on your target goals and tap water of course).
The trade off, is that you can get PH, KH, & GH to precisely the levels that you want, but the prepackaged retail cichlid salts often contain trace elements that aren't recreated with the marine/epson/baking soda home mix. Personally, my African Cichlids react much better to the home mix anyway, so I don't consider the absence of a few potentially beneficial trace elements to be of dire importance.
As far as the difference in price between retail and homemade salt mix is concerned, I'm simply not up for doing all the price/dosing math right now. If you do compare prices, keep in mind that the retail salt mixes don't buffer the PH, so you'd still need to add baking soda or something else to raise it to the 8.0+ neighborhood.