CO2 24/7 - Why Isn't It Done More?

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jhj

William Fontaine DeLaTeur Dauterive
Oct 30, 2005
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Columbus, OH
Roan Art said:
For some reason -- either my needle valve is flaky or whatever or someone stomped on the floor and it opened up a bit more -- around 7pm that night and even though the controller STILL read 6.6, the pH was really at 6.4 or even lower.
Roan

Roan: You are correct about the needle valve, Milwaukee needle valve's are horrible and many owners have attested to that fact. The problem seems to get worse if the solenoid is connected to a timer and/or ph controller vs. 24/7. There was a big thread on the plantedtank forum about the problem with Milwaukee needle valve.
I am not sure if you can replace the needle valve....if so you can order the needle valve from clippard and have much accurate control over your CO2 levels.

Milwaukee needle valve was the main reason I steered away from an otherwise good system and built my own system.
 

djlen

Fish?.......What Fish?
Aug 19, 2002
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Sometimes you have to keep it simple and just go with the flow.
I would be the last to argue with you Tom as you and I both know that I've learned much of what I know from you.
Years ago when I first started injecting gas, I talked with 3 or 4 people who had been into CO2 injection for years before that and had come to the same conclusions:
1. The smaller the fluctuations in pH, the better.
2. The more gadgets one has in/on a tank the more possibilities for problems.
I may be wrong, but I thought one of those people was you. In any event, I set my system up with a tank - regulator - needle valve and a reactor (I use 3 different types) and have used that method for a long time. Each tank has a variation of .1 - .3°pH when injected over night. I test periodically and have not had to re-set/adjust my needle valves ever. I use Clippard valves (recommended by Tom Barr). They are wonderful little gadgets!!!:)
The only time I've stressed fish was when I had brain locks and messed with the status quo.
I make suggestions to other people based on my personal experience that has worked for me. If a person has a consistent needle valve and sets it so that the AM CO2/ppm is 28 - 30, they should have happy fish and happy plants.

Len
 

RTR

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Oct 5, 1998
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RA - the pH changes from CO2 supplement (really from the carbonic acid of CO2 dissolving in water. a very small percentage of the total CO2) are completely trivial to the fish and the tank's metabolism. Carve in stone over your tank: There is no such thing as pH shock. Osmotic shock, from large and sudden changes in the osmolarity (most commonly read as TDS or as electrical conductivity or resistance) can be dangerous or fatal to fish. CO2 supplement has almost no effect on TDS, undetectable by ordinary hobby-level testing.

We use pH shift against known and tested KH to judge CO2 concentration, but with a huge caveat - KH tests can be distorted by the presence of organic acids, non-carbonate buffers, etc. so may not in all tanks have any realistic relationship to dissolved CO2. In most tanks and most water supplies, it is fine and quite useful, but certainly not in all.

Carry-away lesson: Ignore dark-cycle pH shifts - the fish do, they never notice so far as we can tell. If you wish to solenoid and timer control CO2 supplement to match or slightly lead the light on/off times, feel free to do so. The shift in pH to baseline (non-CO2 supplemented levels) does no harm whatsoever - the osmotic shift, if any, is undetectable. If you elect to run CO2 24/7, all you need be concerned about is the dark cycle CO2 is not excessive to the point of sedating the fish and/or affecting their respiration rates.

HTH
 

plantbrain

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Apr 27, 2001
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beviking said:
Tom, you remove CO2 at night...are you also removing Traces/KNO3 too? ;)

Bill
Oh I don't remove it, it leaves all on it's own accord.
The NO3, K+ needs phytocoaxing.

I just know from maximizing the plant health, adding CO2 during the day only, makes the targeted levels of CO2 much easier to attain without fish stress.

High chronic CO2 is much more detrimental to fish than pH swings from CO2 content.

All one has to do is frequent large water changes on CO2 enrcihed tanks and observe the large pH changes and excellent fish health to reach a conclusion.

After 15 years, I think given the wide variety of tanks, tap waters, tank types etc, the method is very effective.

Of course you can do it other ways, but if both myself and Amano suggest something independently, it's not to steer folks the wrong direction.

Regards,
Tom Barr
 

plantbrain

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djlen said:
1. The smaller the fluctuations in pH, the better.
2. The more gadgets one has in/on a tank the more possibilities for problems.
I may be wrong, but I thought one of those people was you.
That would be consistent with past advice, but only terms of CO2 content, not so much pH in and of itself. I've found it is less of an issue (pH change) as long as there is plenty of CO2 for plants.

Solenoids or powerheads may be used to cycle CO2 on/off.
Depends on what method you chose to use.

I've always sugegsted turning CO2 off at night though, the stablity of pH is applied only to the day time to target high CO2 levels, nothing more than that.

I've never supported CO2 24/7. Ever.
I find little issue with it, but I also know I can add more CO2 when it's needed most by turning it off at night.

I also know that I do not have to rely so much on accurate dosing of CO2 by shutting off CO2 at night :sim:

But if it works well and you have no algae and good plant health for each species you like, most folks stick with it.

I've always tinkered and enjoyed that aspect of the hobby and have continued to improve upon methods of my own and methods of other folks.

Awlays after better growth and health for each and every plant species.

Regards,
Tom Barr
 

valleyvampiress

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Feb 28, 2005
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Just wanted to throw in a little of my own testing.

I have my CO2 on a timer. I tested pH at around 2PM (about middle time for lights & CO2 on), and it showed 6.8. Later that night (3AM) when the CO2 and lights were off, I tested the pH again and got 7.0. I only did this once so there may be a .2 +/- there, but for me, there was very little change from day to night.

I was thinking about this earlier and wondered if it has to do with what your pH and KH is out of tap. If your tank starts out with your tap water, for ex. mine's 7.2, during the night when your CO2 is off, wouldn't your tank only reach what was your tap originally (this would be the "max" it could rise)? Plants do release O2 at night (but not sure how much, though from the articles and posts I've read about it, they say it is minimal), so maybe add on .2 more pH's "max". So this would mean your tank only reaches .2 more than your tap is. In turn, this would mean the more drastic the pH swing could depend on where you start out (tap), and where you end up (CO2).

As for KH, I was thinking if it is high like say 11 (mine), would mean it would take more time for pH to rise or fall? This would mean it would be less likely that a big pH swing would occur when CO2 is shut off in those tanks that have higher KH, than those with lower KH.

These are all just theoretical ideas, but I thought I'd put them out there.

What really needs to be done is someone test their water who have nothing added in their tank that would change the water chemistry and have a planted tank with no carbon at all. They would test in the day, then in the night. Then we might know how much plants really do change water chemistry by adding oxygen and carbon.
 
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Roan Art

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RTR said:
RA - the pH changes from CO2 supplement (really from the carbonic acid of CO2 dissolving in water. a very small percentage of the total CO2) are completely trivial to the fish and the tank's metabolism. Carve in stone over your tank: There is no such thing as pH shock. Osmotic shock, from large and sudden changes in the osmolarity (most commonly read as TDS or as electrical conductivity or resistance) can be dangerous or fatal to fish. CO2 supplement has almost no effect on TDS, undetectable by ordinary hobby-level testing.
Thanks, RTR.

Tom, this is what I was referring to when I said:
"Most of the "gurus" on those sites do not run CO2 24/7. In summary, they don't feel it is necessary and that pH swings caused by CO2 injection are not the same as swings caused by other means and are not harmful to the fish. I haven't yet surmised where they get this information from. Does anyone know?"​
I did not know how much of an effect, if any, CO2 had on TDS.

We use pH shift against known and tested KH to judge CO2 concentration, but with a huge caveat - KH tests can be distorted by the presence of organic acids, non-carbonate buffers, etc. so may not in all tanks have any realistic relationship to dissolved CO2. In most tanks and most water supplies, it is fine and quite useful, but certainly not in all.
Exactly. I have read *many* accounts over the past few days of people who jack their CO2 to levels of around 70-85ppm, with no stress to the fish whatsoever. Obviously they do not have "super fish", so there has to be something different about their water -- or their CO2 delivery -- that is different from others.

Carry-away lesson: Ignore dark-cycle pH shifts - the fish do, they never notice so far as we can tell. If you wish to solenoid and timer control CO2 supplement to match or slightly lead the light on/off times, feel free to do so. The shift in pH to baseline (non-CO2 supplemented levels) does no harm whatsoever - the osmotic shift, if any, is undetectable. If you elect to run CO2 24/7, all you need be concerned about is the dark cycle CO2 is not excessive to the point of sedating the fish and/or affecting their respiration rates.
I am far more comfortable shutting it off at night. The pH swing really doesn't bother me at all.

I think what I was trying to find out is this: if it takes *less* time to get CO2 to your target level in the morning, then your plants have more daylight hours of optimal CO2 levels. If this holds true, then

a) can CO2 levels be lowered overall?
b) is it better for the plants to have more hours of pearling?

Example: My target level is 25ppm. I shut my CO2 off at night and it takes me 6 hours during the day to get the CO2 to that target level. This level produces some really awesome pearling for 4-6 hours a day.

a) If I do NOT shut the CO2 off at night, then it only takes me 1-2 hours to get the CO2 to my target level and therefore the plants could very well have 10 hours of awesome pearling.

b) If I do not shut the CO2 off at night, and set my target level for 20ppm instead of 25ppm, then my plants could have 10 hours of good pearling.

If a) and b) are true then is b) equal to shutting the CO2 off at night and getting 4 hours of awesome pearling?

Obviously, from the above, I'd rather run at lower CO2 levels on some of my tanks. My Boesemani males will start to thread if I push CO2 past 25ppm and they will all appear stressed at 30ppm. The duboulayi and parva bows in my other tank show no stress at all until the CO2 gets to 35-40ppm.

Neither of these tanks is over-stocked, btw. The Boesemani tank has 13 bows, 7 of which are juvies at a max of 2". The other six are adults at 3+ inches. There are also 7 Goo obo gudgeons that run from 1-1½" in size in that tank. Two amano shrimp that I've seen, I originally bought 5 and they could all be there for all I know :)

The other tank has 6 duboulayi juvies that run from 2" to 3½" (they can get to 5-6"), 6 parva juvies (largest is maybe 2", they max at 3"), and three 2½-3" clown loaches.

Roan
 

Roan Art

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jhj said:
Roan: You are correct about the needle valve, Milwaukee needle valve's are horrible and many owners have attested to that fact. The problem seems to get worse if the solenoid is connected to a timer and/or ph controller vs. 24/7. There was a big thread on the plantedtank forum about the problem with Milwaukee needle valve.
I am not sure if you can replace the needle valve....if so you can order the needle valve from clippard and have much accurate control over your CO2 levels.
I'll probably do that. It's just on the new tank that I'm having problems with getting a consistant bubble rate. It's very frustrating. If I get everything set just right, an hour later it will be either too high or too low.

This is why I was so upset with the pH controller. I was trying to get it to help me set the bubble rate. Freaking thing.

Roan
 

plantbrain

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Captain Hook said:
Sorry, I'm confused here. Is Amano against 24/7 or shutting it off at night?
He is entirely against adding CO2 at night/ adding CO2 24/7.

I'm against it as well, but probably not as much as Amano.

Regards,
Tom Barr
 
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