Confused about co2

[fabsroman]

So, then does that way get me out of having to use a canister filter? I am not intentionally trying to get out of it, I just really can't afford to by one. But I really need to do some thing soon because my plants are turning yellow.

You need to use some type of filter that will not agitate the water's surface. Hang On Back ("HOB") filters will not work. I tried it on a 20 gallon long, after already having learned my lesson on a 75 gallon tank, and it just does not work. You either need to go with a canister filter or a filter that works inside the tank. I believe Fluval makes a submersed filter that doesn't cause surface agitation. It might be called the Fluval 3 or Fluval 4, if memory serves me correctly. You can also find a powerhead that uses a filter attachment on it. Me, I am using an Aquaclear 70 with a filter attachment on it. Problem with my situation is that the powerhead filter media does not allow for chemical filtration or the addition of any media whatsoever.

To answer your question directly, if you go with a reactor you will not have to attach the CO2 line to a canister filter input. The reason people use canister filters to mix the CO2 is so they do not have to spend the money on a reactor. Me, I either buy a cheap $10 reactor, or on my 120 gallon system I buy the $100 reactor that mixes the CO2 up pretty quickly.

 

[Alicia]

Where in the world do you find a $10.00 reactor? I have only seen them going for $80+; I can handle ten bucks. I can try to find a canister filter to fit my tank that don't cost a lot, I keep looking

 

[texasguy]

Well before you go CO2 you may want to upgrade your lighting set up to T-5HO to see if there is a significant difference.

 

[fabsroman]

Where in the world do you find a $10.00 reactor? I have only seen them going for $80+; I can handle ten bucks. I can try to find a canister filter to fit my tank that don't cost a lot, I keep looking

Here you go from e-bay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/S3-CO2-Diffuser...tem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a4c8bacc0

However, I just ordered 3 of them from this place because I recently got burned for $25 on e-bay from an Asian vendor:

http://www.aquariumplants.com/Aqua_Medic_CO2_Reactor_100_p/am73015.htm

Unless your tank is huge, one of these reactors will work. If you have a really large tank, they still make a reactor like this for it. They are just bigger and the only place I have seen them for sale is in Asia.

 

[Alicia]

Well before you go CO2 you may want to upgrade your lighting set up to T-5HO to see if there is a significant difference.

I'm sorry, but I really can't afford that right now either.

I am thinking about getting rid of my rock and switching to Carib Sea Eco Complete Planted Aquarium Substrate, but I need to know if I need to completly empty out my tank to put this in.

 

[fabsroman]

At first I didn't want to do co2 and now I want to. I have spent hours today reading on how to set up co2 to my my tank, and I am still really confused. Can someone please explain it to me? Lol, and I need it explained to me like I am stupid at this point.
I know that I can't use my current filters; they are 2 hob Penguin filters rated for 70 gallons each. My lighting is rated at 110 wats spread out over 3 bulbs (2 are T12 and 1 is T8) All 3 bulbs are Daytime. I have a lightly planted tank with 14 plants in it. It is a 72 gallon bow front.
I am confused about everything I guess. I would like to know how you hook the co2 up to a filter... and what kind of filter should I use, and then how do you hook that up to the tank? And how exactly do you measure the bubble count?
I also read a chart that showed how much co2 to have if you had a certain ph... I didn't quite understand that either.
And about how much does this usually cost to start up?

In the entire quest for CO2, I'm wondering if you are using any type of fertilizers in your tank. Yes, CO2 can be a limiting factor, but so can ferts. If you are having a particular problem with your plants, you might want to look at fertilizer deficiciency results first. They make charts for this stuff and I do not know most of them off the top of my head (i.e., all of my plants are healthy with my fertilizer regime and CO2). The one I do know off the top of my head is that a lack of potassium causes holes in leaves and I believe a lack of iron causes leaves to turn yellow.

 

[texasguy]

$80 and it matches your wattage now but its t5. http://fishneedit.com/t5ho-4ft--2lamp-aquarium-light.html
I don't know how much it will help but from my experience it would make a big difference.

 

[fabsroman]

I'm sorry, but I really can't afford that right now either.

I am thinking about getting rid of my rock and switching to Carib Sea Eco Complete Planted Aquarium Substrate, but I need to know if I need to completly empty out my tank to put this in.

I just added 80 pounds of Flourite substrate to my established 75 gallon that already had 80 pounds in it for the past 4 years. I also got rid of the undergravel filter at the same time. I made sure I gravel vac'ed it pretty good, washed out the new stuff, pulled out the undergravel filter, and then added the new substrate with a cup by sumberging the cup with the new substrate in it and then taking it to the bottom so I would not stir up too much crap out of it. I did this with all the fish in the tank and with the filters still running.

If I were you, I wouldn't worry too much about the high intensity lights unless you have a deep tank. I have a 32 watt T-8 on a shop light over a 20 gallon long and a 10 gallon and I get insane plant growth using ferts, CO2, and Eco-Complete. In fact, I started with 20 dwarf sag in the 20 gallon about 6 months ago and the tank is completely full right now and I have been selling plants out of it as often as I can find buyers. The 10 gallon started with 6 straight vals about 6 months ago and now it has 50+. All of this with a T-8 light. Again, I think the high intensity lights are a big deal for deeper tanks. Bought a light meter over Christmas but I got involved with tax season and haven't taken it out of the box yet. IF I remember over the weekend, I'll take some readings from the bottom of the 20 gallon and then the bottom of my tanks that have the CF lights on them that cost a fortune.

 

[Alicia]

In the entire quest for CO2, I'm wondering if you are using any type of fertilizers in your tank. Yes, CO2 can be a limiting factor, but so can ferts. If you are having a particular problem with your plants, you might want to look at fertilizer deficiciency results first. They make charts for this stuff and I do not know most of them off the top of my head (i.e., all of my plants are healthy with my fertilizer regime and CO2). The one I do know off the top of my head is that a lack of potassium causes holes in leaves and I believe a lack of iron causes leaves to turn yellow.

I am currently using Flourish Tabs and API Leaf Zone in my tank for fertilizers.

 

[Alicia]

Fabsroman- I have a pretty deep tank... it's a 72 gallon bowfront. it measures 23 inches high. Atleast I think that's pretty deep. Do you think that I could remove a light or 2?