Dividing up a sump

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thetermite

AC Members
Feb 13, 2009
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Dubai
alright. This is pretty much my layout (except mine is deeper. This drawing is scaled at 12" deep which reflects your setup)

Hopefully it'll help, if you decide to go with this kind of setup .

Cheech, nice design. im a assuming that would be sufficient for my 240L tank ( 120cm x 50cm x 40cm ). if so, what dimensions would you recommend for the sump? need help with dimensions pls! thanks dude
 

thetermite

AC Members
Feb 13, 2009
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scrap my last post. i missed a page and didnt see the dimensions properly. quick question tho: since my main tank is already running, drilling it is out of the question. so i would need an overflow box hanging the side of the tank with a hose from main tank to overflow box, then from the bottom of the overflow to the sump. my question would be what size piping or hoses should i be using?

another question would be: i still dont really understand why you would rest the LR rumble on eggs crates. would it be so that water runs past the rock and not create dead spots around the rock?

what about filling the sump. i obviously cant just turn the taps on the main tank and end up draining half the tank! haha, during a water change maybe? just make extra water and add it to fill both the tank as well as the sump. if so, would that induce another mini nitro cycle?

what should i look forward to in my water parameters after i start running the sump?

will be sketching a full plumbing diagram in the next couple of days and post for everyones comments. also still need to figure out where to put the sump. my stand is partitioned with shelves and storage space. will start construction when i figure that problem out.
 

Sploke

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Oct 20, 2005
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Your return plumbing size will depend on how much flow rate you end up with. For a sump that size, I would think 400-500gph max through the sump, which can be handled fine with a single 1" drain line. Yes, you'll need a HOB overflow box.

As far as filling the sump, I would get it all plumbed and set up, then just fill it with premixed sw, and turn it on. Keep a close eye on it for the first hour or two until you get a feel for what the water level difference is between having the return pump on and off. Do a few power-off tests to make sure your sump won't overflow, and mark a line on the sump for max-fill when the system is running. Unless you are using uncured LR, you shouldn't really see any spikes.
 

ramarlex

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Apr 9, 2009
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reefscape, your size would work. i've made a few fuges for friends and they like the fact that my intake is a 5.5 by 5.5 inlet with room in the same space for a skimmer. my refugium area is 16 wide by 13 tall to keep my macro and live rocks. along with a 5" deep sand bed. my return is 9" wide to accomodate a Mag 24 pump. good luck and post some pics when done.
 

Ace25

www.centralcoastreefclub. com
Oct 3, 2005
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Wow, 10 pages, don't have time to read them all right now, just wanted to quickly comment on the DSB. I am pretty sure 3-4" is considered the minimum for a working DSB, 6" is the generally accepted depth just to make sure you have an oxygen free zone, but I have read when you get above 10" deep it starts to have a negative effect because it can release more toxic nitrifying gasses than your tank can handle at once due to the increased amount of anaerobic bacteria from the larger oxygen free zone. There is no such thing as too shallow (bare bottom) but there is such thing as too deep, even on a fuge.
 
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