first SW build thread

[axelrod12]

Thanks greech. So this is where I stand. 40B with a 20L sump/refugium. I'm going to use an Eshopps PF-300 overflow box and the Sicce Syncra 2.0 pump. As far as sump design is concerned I am going to assemble something similar to this setup.

I plugged all my expected numbers into that calculator. The Syncra 2.0 wasn't an option but I chose another pump with only 8gph less than the 2.0. My results read Total losses are 5.11 feet of head pressure, or 2.21 PSI. with a flow rate of 335 GPH

I can't honestly say I know what all this means but I'm assuming that I will be getting 335 GPH of flow and could dial down the pump to level it out around 300GPH or less? I included a ball valve in the calculations.

 

[greech]

I might up the box to the pf-800 just to give you a little more room to play with. The 300 is rated for 300gph so you can't push more than 300 through it. Trust me when I say you will want a Hofer Gugle Buster on your box and in the process of quieting your box, the HGB will also reduce the amount of water the overflow can drain. I do think the 300 will work for your application but if your desired turnover is 300 gph, you will likely be disappointed with the pf-300. Other option is the Lifereef...

http://www.lifereef.com/siphon.html

 

[axelrod12]

PF-800 it is. The price difference isn't very much. I'm definitely going to get one of those Hofer Gurgle Busters. The tank is most likely going to be on display in the living room so the less noise the better.

 

[greech]

The only thing I don't like about the 800 is the box is 2" longer than the 300. However, the box (part in the display) still takes up less room that a lot of overflows (even drilled corner overflows).

 

[axelrod12]

Ok so now that the plans for the sump are mostly in order I think the last piece of equipment I am really unfamiliar with is the protein skimmer. After some reading I have a basic understanding of what they do and how they work. However, I don't know what sets a good one apart from a useless one or which are the popular choices?

EDIT: Also looking at fish right now, and I'm trying to build a stock around a Greegn Mandarin Dragonet. Any recommendations or guides on choosing reef safe fish are welcome as I know of very few marine fish right now.

 

[greech]

Bubble production via a good designed bubble plate and the amount of air they can pull is the key to a good skimmer. For your size tank, Bubble Magnus NAC3, Reef Octopus NWB110, SWC 120, Vertex IN-80 or IN-100. If you think you'll upgrade, go ahead and go one model up. If you do that consider the Super Reef Octopus 1000 versus the needle wheels. That will be a beastly skimmer for a 60ish gallon system. IME, it is tough to overskim especially when you have a heavier bioload and or feed your tank well.

 

[TL1000RSquid]

For the mandarin I'd let the tank establish for awhile and your copepod population is high. http://piratefx.hubpages.com/hub/Mandarin-Fish

 

[axelrod12]

Would it be beneficial for me to run a UV sterilizer on the system? I read some stuff about them killing off certain nutrients if not set up properly for the system. If that's the case it sounds to me like it may be more trouble than it's worth.

 

[axelrod12]

It looks like I'm gonna be getting my hands on a 20L this weekend so I should be able to start assembling the sump next week.
The next step after the sump is going to be building a stand. I'm going to attempt to mimic this stand unless anyone has any other suggestions (preferably with step by step instructions so I don't mess up

I think I've got the aquaclear110 figured out so I'm going to use that as another fuge. I'm going to also keep one of the emperor 280s on the tank to use for mechanical and chemical filtration if needed. Any other flow problems I'll take care of with powerheads.

 

[greech]

The UV sterilizer debate is ongoing. IMO, if you want to use one go for it but to be safe don't oversize it.

Little worried about those stand dimensions (36"T x 41"W x 20"D). At 41" x 20" the vertical supports are not going to be beneath the corners of the tank and therefore the weight of the tank won't disperse down through the stand to the floor like it should. The way I see it the weight of the tank will solely be held up by the top frame and the 2 struts in the middle which could cause warping or worse, a complete failure of the stand. I see he did use pocket screws which are strong and make a clean finish but I don't think I would trust my tank long term. I'm no expert builder so just my opinion. Here is another option but it may be difficult to fit a 20L under the stand is you build it this way..

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1169964

Using the power filters is fine but my guess is you'll get tired of cleaning them so often that you'll take them off eventually. They can provide benefits but sometimes simplicity is the best route. You'll get a feel for it once you get going.