... Not really, fishless cycles were around longer then you think. They may not have come first, but the reason they were created is because people wanted to know why their fish kept dying after 3 days.
Freshwater cycling
- Thread starter Rbishop
- Start date
Hehehe touche' Here's a method I just heard about and though the theory seems sound it may just be a pipe dream. I have heard a few people mention that they have always cycled their tanks using live plants. At first it sounded crazy but somewhere in there it makes sense.
I have always used live plants in my setups and these are established long before I ever added any fish. Here is the method as it was explained to me and mind you I'm skeptical as you may be as well. I would like to hear the thoughts on this and Hopefully Bob can shed some light on this theory as I call it.
Setup your tank using a plant substrate of choosing. The method explained to me was using eco-complete substrate. Get everything in place heater, filter lighting and have the water conditioned for the plants to be used. Plant the tank setup your CO2 system and let the system go for 2-3 weeks getting the plants established. The plants will naturally add matter that will decompose and begin to add to the biological process almost from the beginning and by the end of this time the system is stable for Aquatic pets.
Like I said this seems like a pipe dream but I am told it has worked for them and no fish loss has ever occurred in this style, and in a way it appears to make sense. I would like to hear your opinions as I have many plants and a spare 30 gallon to test this out. My only question would be on how do you know if the cycle is complete? Adding ammonia to a planted tank doesn't sound very smart but if they have been established for some time there must some way to determine if it worked without endangering a fish. This could be one the reasons I have always had success with new tanks without adding ammonia to the water.
I have always used live plants in my setups and these are established long before I ever added any fish. Here is the method as it was explained to me and mind you I'm skeptical as you may be as well. I would like to hear the thoughts on this and Hopefully Bob can shed some light on this theory as I call it.
Setup your tank using a plant substrate of choosing. The method explained to me was using eco-complete substrate. Get everything in place heater, filter lighting and have the water conditioned for the plants to be used. Plant the tank setup your CO2 system and let the system go for 2-3 weeks getting the plants established. The plants will naturally add matter that will decompose and begin to add to the biological process almost from the beginning and by the end of this time the system is stable for Aquatic pets.
Like I said this seems like a pipe dream but I am told it has worked for them and no fish loss has ever occurred in this style, and in a way it appears to make sense. I would like to hear your opinions as I have many plants and a spare 30 gallon to test this out. My only question would be on how do you know if the cycle is complete? Adding ammonia to a planted tank doesn't sound very smart but if they have been established for some time there must some way to determine if it worked without endangering a fish. This could be one the reasons I have always had success with new tanks without adding ammonia to the water.
Koi pond
Hello everyone....I'm new to the Forum, glad to join you.
I just purchased a new aquarium and was wondering if you thought it would be OK to use water/gravel from my back yard Koi pond to jump start the new bacteria cyle on my new indoor aquarium.
Hello everyone....I'm new to the Forum, glad to join you.
I just purchased a new aquarium and was wondering if you thought it would be OK to use water/gravel from my back yard Koi pond to jump start the new bacteria cyle on my new indoor aquarium.
I think it'd work 
but I agree with the above, go for filter media. Don't bother with water if you can't get it... Go with gravel instead. Welcome to AC by the way!
but I agree with the above, go for filter media. Don't bother with water if you can't get it... Go with gravel instead. Welcome to AC by the way!Silent Cycle
Okay after some thorough research I found the method as I described above and the one I was taught to use are identical and is referred to as a "Silent Cycle". I was skeptical about the Tank actually being cycled this way by the plants alone. Never realized the plants job even as I did it this way lol. The version of this I always used included aquatic plants of differing growth patterns, but the method I told about and got a good explanation why this is so effective used only fast growing plants at the start , and they use Eco-complete substrate <Which I will have to try out> used flourite myself mostly old days of laterite are gone. This is a natural albeit longer way for cycling your system.
According to Aquarium plant clubs and other resources Plants will consume ammonia and nitrate thereby beginning an initial biological cycle until the filter can become completely established, and even after the plants will contribute to this. After 1 week you will be able to introduce a few algae eating fish or shrimp and they will be worry free as the plants will be taking care of any ammonia and nitrates. These guys will be happily munching on algal growths which depending on your lighting can be large or very small. The only thing you shouldn't be using at this point is liquid fertilizers as this will cause an algae bloom. Fertilized substrate or sticks placed under the gravel bed by each plant will be best until everything else has established then of course your in the clear for the liquid stuff. Making sure to remove dead leaves and other plant material is key at this stage as you can be inundated with algae and poor water conditions if you allow anything to decay to long. After another week or 2 you can begin adding your substrate dwellers Depending on your tank size Corydoras catfish make excellent additions and should be kept in groups of 4-6. At this time your plants and budding colony in your filter will be doing their job and the Plants will be getting larger and more full <Filter is still growing>. After another week or 2 if you want to wait a little longer your all set to add some middle and/or top dwellers. You still want to go slow with additions to make sure your system can catch up <It shouldn't be an issue at this point but favor the side of caution and go slow>.
Make sure you have from the beginning the CO2 system of your choice ready to go as the initial planting cycle requires CO2 from the start. This method has always worked well for me and everyone I've known that uses it. Kinda funny how your taught something and never knew they actually had a name for the cycling method you used.
Some people will argue but I stand strong as I stated earlier never had to worry about the dreaded Syndrome and never had a fish suffer or die in fact my Cory's and pleco's live for years and even had my Cory's breed in most setups <30gal and up>. Bristle nosed Pleco's are great for Algae control and including one in a planted setup is a great choice as they do not tear plants up and even clean the leaves of the larger types. Driftwood is a must have if you have a bristle nose for reasons even the experts aren't fully aware and most claim these Pleco's will ingest some and suffer or perish without it. <Look it up> Make sure you also supplement your Algae crew with a variety of foods as they need more in their diet than just Algae. Hope this helps
Okay after some thorough research I found the method as I described above and the one I was taught to use are identical and is referred to as a "Silent Cycle". I was skeptical about the Tank actually being cycled this way by the plants alone. Never realized the plants job even as I did it this way lol. The version of this I always used included aquatic plants of differing growth patterns, but the method I told about and got a good explanation why this is so effective used only fast growing plants at the start , and they use Eco-complete substrate <Which I will have to try out> used flourite myself mostly old days of laterite are gone. This is a natural albeit longer way for cycling your system.
According to Aquarium plant clubs and other resources Plants will consume ammonia and nitrate thereby beginning an initial biological cycle until the filter can become completely established, and even after the plants will contribute to this. After 1 week you will be able to introduce a few algae eating fish or shrimp and they will be worry free as the plants will be taking care of any ammonia and nitrates. These guys will be happily munching on algal growths which depending on your lighting can be large or very small. The only thing you shouldn't be using at this point is liquid fertilizers as this will cause an algae bloom. Fertilized substrate or sticks placed under the gravel bed by each plant will be best until everything else has established then of course your in the clear for the liquid stuff. Making sure to remove dead leaves and other plant material is key at this stage as you can be inundated with algae and poor water conditions if you allow anything to decay to long. After another week or 2 you can begin adding your substrate dwellers Depending on your tank size Corydoras catfish make excellent additions and should be kept in groups of 4-6. At this time your plants and budding colony in your filter will be doing their job and the Plants will be getting larger and more full <Filter is still growing>. After another week or 2 if you want to wait a little longer your all set to add some middle and/or top dwellers. You still want to go slow with additions to make sure your system can catch up <It shouldn't be an issue at this point but favor the side of caution and go slow>.
Make sure you have from the beginning the CO2 system of your choice ready to go as the initial planting cycle requires CO2 from the start. This method has always worked well for me and everyone I've known that uses it. Kinda funny how your taught something and never knew they actually had a name for the cycling method you used.
Some people will argue but I stand strong as I stated earlier never had to worry about the dreaded Syndrome and never had a fish suffer or die in fact my Cory's and pleco's live for years and even had my Cory's breed in most setups <30gal and up>. Bristle nosed Pleco's are great for Algae control and including one in a planted setup is a great choice as they do not tear plants up and even clean the leaves of the larger types. Driftwood is a must have if you have a bristle nose for reasons even the experts aren't fully aware and most claim these Pleco's will ingest some and suffer or perish without it. <Look it up>
Make sure you also supplement your Algae crew with a variety of foods as they need more in their diet than just Algae. Hope this helps
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Yes, a silent cycle is indeed possible. The plants also act as an inoculation source. I suggest looking into Diana Walstad's methods (her book is Ecology of the Planted Aquarium) too if you are still interested.
I am considering doing it with my current 10 gallon myself...however the problem with it being a wide spread method is that not everyone has the green thumb, or the time/resources to devote to a heavily planted tank, or the fish are just not plant compatible. Tell an inexperienced fish keeper to try this with a java fern and some moss and they'll end up with a slow and potentially fatal cycle...
I am considering doing it with my current 10 gallon myself...however the problem with it being a wide spread method is that not everyone has the green thumb, or the time/resources to devote to a heavily planted tank, or the fish are just not plant compatible. Tell an inexperienced fish keeper to try this with a java fern and some moss and they'll end up with a slow and potentially fatal cycle...
The recommended fast growers to use would be:
These plants don't require an insane light setup though would greatly benefit if you have it. All are fast growers and will adapt well to the aquarium and are extremely easy to maintain, making them good starter plants as well. DIY fermentation canisters or store bought ones would suffice in aquariums up to 40 gallons. Some can be used on larger setups but require modifications to those mixtures that shouldn't be attempted by inexperienced aquarists. Best option on larger setups is the more advanced CO2 injection systems or other styles.
- Ceratopteris thalictroides,Or commonly known as Water sprite
- Hygrophila polysperma, Also known as Dwarf Hygrophila
- Bacopa australis, No known alias
- Egeria densa. or commonly known as Anacharis
These plants don't require an insane light setup though would greatly benefit if you have it. All are fast growers and will adapt well to the aquarium and are extremely easy to maintain, making them good starter plants as well. DIY fermentation canisters or store bought ones would suffice in aquariums up to 40 gallons. Some can be used on larger setups but require modifications to those mixtures that shouldn't be attempted by inexperienced aquarists. Best option on larger setups is the more advanced CO2 injection systems or other styles.
fish in cycling does not always go as fast as a week unless you seed the tank with bacteria from an established tank or other source. I did a fish in cycle on a 75 gallon tank and it took me about a month and a half before it was fully cycled.
