PH is not a ppm measure. Its is actually a log scale for hydrogen. But that is not the question. I use both catappas and alders as well as rooibos tea in my altum tanks. There are several effects these things can have on your water. The biggest you will notice is the staining.
The alder cones need to used carefully as they tend to be quite intense in terms of staining. Catappas are good as well and will release all sorts of beneficial things into the water. Both these things release lots of tannins and will effect pH- they will soften the water and help to lower the pH. The roobos tea will not effect the pH nor add any tannins. However,it will color the water another way and it will release all the beneficial goodies.
There is no formula for how many cones or leaves may be needed. There are too many variables. You are correct about the KH being an issue. I tend to lower the pH in the altum tanks using the addition of ro/di water to bother reduce the overall KH as well as to lower the TDS combined with dosing muriatic acid. But I also use a pH meter to be sure of what I am doing.
You may get better and more controlled results if you make your own peat extract. That way you would be more able to control what "dosages" work for you. One of the biggest issue in lowering one's pH is being sure that water changes will not bounce it around too much. To minimize this I pre-treat my changing water so it has the parameters desired before it gets put into the tank.
One other route you may want to consider to lower your pH is to use a buffer. You can get an idea about a lot of whats available here
http://www.kensfish.com/ph-buffers.html
Seachem has information on theirs here
http://www.picosearch.com/cgi-bin/ts.pl?index=403868&query=buffers&SEARCH.x=0&SEARCH.y=0
Lastly, altering tank chemistry can be a slippery slope. it is often not quite so simple as "dose so much of this" and its done. So unless you have an absolute need to change your pH, I would be inclined to leave it alone.