Making a Stand for a 100 Gal

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LesbianChap

Don't ask, I'll tell.
Jan 2, 2006
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Florida
I originally was making the stand for a standard 75 gallon, but I got my hands on a 100 gal and I'm planning on using that instead. The 100 is 60 inches long, 18 inches wide, and 21 inches deep. On the design for the 75, I was going to use 2x4's with only corner legs for the weight, and wasn't really worried on the deflection and needing a center leg to support the weight.

Upgrading to the 100, I wasn't sure if I'd need to plan on a center support (which I would use if I was going to a 6-foot long tank), or upgrade to 2x6 for the top frame, or if the current 2x4 design was adequate...and I'm getting mixed results looking around on advice/googling. Here's a picture of the basic structure/design when I was sketching it up for a 55:

I do plan on facing and topping it with plywood, doors, etc, so it should be even more stable than what's just shown in the picture...but I understand that helps more for if the stand gets bumped/pushed on than actual static weight support.
 

Bunsen Honeydew

AC Members
Feb 22, 2017
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What you have drawn up in 2 by 4s seems adequate in my experience. I used the same design for a 110 EH bank in the day and it was rock solid. I had 3/4" plywood on the top, bottom shelf, sides and a 1' by 4" sheet at the top back as well.
 

Frank Castle

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Feb 9, 2017
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I originally was making the stand for a standard 75 gallon, but I got my hands on a 100 gal and I'm planning on using that instead. The 100 is 60 inches long, 18 inches wide, and 21 inches deep. On the design for the 75, I was going to use 2x4's with only corner legs for the weight, and wasn't really worried on the deflection and needing a center leg to support the weight.

Upgrading to the 100, I wasn't sure if I'd need to plan on a center support (which I would use if I was going to a 6-foot long tank), or upgrade to 2x6 for the top frame, or if the current 2x4 design was adequate...and I'm getting mixed results looking around on advice/googling. Here's a picture of the basic structure/design when I was sketching it up for a 55:

I do plan on facing and topping it with plywood, doors, etc, so it should be even more stable than what's just shown in the picture...but I understand that helps more for if the stand gets bumped/pushed on than actual static weight support.
you really can't do wrong by reinforcing a structure unless you do it in a way that compromises it ....something simple like a cross-braces joist through the middle about 14-15" long would add sturdiness and ease your nerves about the center weight.

I had a 120g that was the same foot print and I thought it was pretty heavy, so I used 12 cinder blocks arranged in rows of 2 stacked on top of each other with plywood on top to distribute the weight, then cardboard to take the play out of it.

When all is said and done and the tank is full and has décor and whatnot, you're looking at 1/2 a ton so always better safe than sorry, IMO.
 

FreshyFresh

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Jan 11, 2013
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Joel
That should be plenty strong for a 5ft, 100g tank. Like said, sheeting the rear and sides of that structure, even with a thinner plywood will make it very sturdy.
 

FreshyFresh

Global Moderator
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Jan 11, 2013
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West Falls NY
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Joel
That should be plenty strong for a 5ft, 100g tank. Like said, sheeting the rear and sides of that structure, even with a thinner plywood will make it very sturdy.
 

Bunsen Honeydew

AC Members
Feb 22, 2017
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Thinking about it a little more, my 110 XH stand had 3/4" on the top, bottom shelf and a ~1' strip across the back. The sides were skinned in beadboard. the front was a trimmed out beadboard panel that completely detached for easier access into the sump area.

I miss that tank/setup.
 
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